Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Just posting this up to see if other may have experienced and recified the same issue with there r33 gtst's.

Car idles nicely at the correct rpm (650rpm from memory). about every 30-45 secods or so its like the motor has a small miss , i feel the engine lightly jolt and revs must drop (happens so quick u dont notice it on the tacho).. This has been happening for some time now, but its getting annoying so i want to try and fix it.

I have new plugs bcpr6es, fuel pump has been replace with a new item, AFM has been cleaned with electrical cleaner.

I have not cleaned aac valve (idle control valve) or replaced the fuel filter.

Any idea what might be causing this.. Coils are good and hold up good under boost and whilst driving the car the problem is not there.. only at idle.

mods include fmic, zorst, std ecu.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224839-idle-wierdness-missing-a-beat/
Share on other sites

lol cheers for the reply man. its annoying to say the least but if its just the plugs then I could live with that. prior to this i run bpr6es (not bcpr6es) and did not have the problem.. Whats the 'c' in bcpr6es mean ?

I have a similar issue in my r32. Does the miss always happen on idle? Or does it come along a couple of days etc?

Ive noticed that when my battery voltage drops below 13v on idle, the car starts to have the little shakes.

In my case, i believe its the alternator not charging the battery on idle and causing it to drop to 12.5v~.

As the voltage is low, this would cause the injectors, coilpacks to act funny causing a slight vibration etc.

Go to an auto electrican to check your alternator/battery to see if they are running okay.

Doesnt hurt to try as they are happy to check for free.

Let us know on the progress.

I have a similar issue in my r32. Does the miss always happen on idle? Or does it come along a couple of days etc?

Ive noticed that when my battery voltage drops below 13v on idle, the car starts to have the little shakes.

In my case, i believe its the alternator not charging the battery on idle and causing it to drop to 12.5v~.

As the voltage is low, this would cause the injectors, coilpacks to act funny causing a slight vibration etc.

Go to an auto electrican to check your alternator/battery to see if they are running okay.

Doesnt hurt to try as they are happy to check for free.

Let us know on the progress.

In addition to this, ensure your battery terminals are clean and ensure there is sufficient grounding. Also check you vacum hoses for fine cracks as a small vacum leak could also show such problems.

Cheers

sorry to hijack your thread but mine also does similar if not the same thing.

when i pull up to my driveway it idles low and makes a beep/whine while it is idling low then stops when the rpm go up.

Anyone had this/heard to this??

CAR: R33 S1 Stock bar: Catback, k+n panel.

Dan.

hey i got a series I gts-t and does the same thing its all good man nothing to stress over i had a heart attach when i got it but meh its fine doesnt do n e thing bad so im not stressed but ye ive noticed it a few times esp at lights

well buggor34 service my car for me (thanks mate) this included new oil 4100, oil filter, fuel filter, new plugs and also cleaned the AAC and FIXED no more missing im so happy, sorry i couldnt be more helpful in diagnosing but one of the above fixed me problem, we are thinking it was most likely the plugs to be honest as the others were totally screwed that or AAC which wasnt really dirty at all.

  • 1 month later...

i've been having a similar problem for a while now. it always goes away when i put new plugs in, but comes back after a couple hundred kays. never paid too much attention to it until this week.

i had my 100,000km service recently. the only thing not replaced was the plugs (at my request, had NGK iridiums only about 1200km old). the misfire got really bad after a timing problem was fixed. replaced the plugs to be on the safe side and the misfire stopped. the thing is, i'm now experiencing a severe lack in power.

when i say severe, don't just pass it off as a non turbo thing, i'm talking 12-13 seconds to get up to 100km/h pulling onto the freeway. when i put my foot down in any gear after 2nd all it does is make noise. and what a noise. my car has always been legal in the volume department, but this morning i couldn't hear the harley sitting next to me at the lights.

something is very very wrong.

any thoughts? i'm taking it back to the shop that did the service as soon as i get a chance, but work is busy and these guys take a ridiculous amount of time to get anything done. for my major service i was without a car for TWO WEEKS.

any thoughts?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I ❤️ Matty I would like to thank Matty for going out his way in securing me a OEM NC detachable hard top for the NC Matty, your worth your weight in gold, and I cannot say how much I really appreciate your outstanding help I'll get it colour matched once I pick it up sometime in Dec-Jan 😁  
    • We have some genuine Japanese legally decommissioned car number plates now in stock 🙂 Add some legitimately obtained JDM style to your Skyline or other Japanese model, or simply as a garage/man cave decoration! About the 40mm hole: The Ministry of Land, Infrastructure & Transport in Japan recognised the popularity of keeping decommissioned plates among car enthusiasts and came up with a method to "destroy" (or render them unusable for street use) while still retaining their collectable/usable value for display etc.  We have 40mm hole covers available to cover the hole nicely with a Sakura motif, which are also available in white in (very!) limited quantities, however they frequently sell out. Please let me know if you're wanting one or more of these and I'll check availability. The Sakura motif covers are more common. https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-decommissioned-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-set-su-7515 https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-decommissioned-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-set https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-400mm-hole-cover *Please note that we can't obtain particular number or area name (eg: "Gunma 500 Fu ・86") if requested. All plates are provided as they become available after decommissioning. 
    • Ah, fair enough. For the IAT, I'm using a legit GM sensor that was used on the car prior to my current build. I'll get another wideband and IAT ordered and follow up when they show up. Thanks for the help.
    • You shouldn't need to massively fatten up the mixtures for cold conditions. For one thing - 0°C is not that cold. For another, the Haltech will be using the IAT sensor to tell it how dense the air air, and calculate the correct amount of fuelling. Then the cold start enrichment is added as a % on top of that, so it should scale with the main fuelling. You might also doubt the IAT sensor at this time. You're not using one from an RB26 are you? Using a nice Bosch sensor or similar? Happens. Some wideband units take great pleasure in killing their sensors. Put another wideband in the tailpipe and compare. Or just swap the sensor to a brand new one and see.
    • Oh, my misunderstand. When the car was running, it sounded ok, but if I gave it any gas it wanted to die but caught itself afterwards. It's very different from how it was a couple months ago when it was warmer outside. The logs show that the AFRs are better during, what I assume, is warmup enrichment. Because it's cold, and air is more dense, should I work on the enrichment bit?
×
×
  • Create New...