Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

another no on that one,

cars will weigh very different, have very different leverage ratios and very different suspension geometry and handling caracteristics, combine all this and you get a mess of spring rate and valving rate.

the G4's use a very small stack of shims, small in diameter, that is why they have such high spring rate to compensate for the lack of shim technology. SMALL = BAD FLOW

bilstein and koni use very large shims and with years of testing and teasting.

NOTE, im not going into the fine details of shims as we would be here for weeks, so if anyone is going to give me greif, im just trying to get my point across.

these camber pins(they r an offset bush arnt they) that sk was talking about, do they need to be pressed in for the front and rear, how is the traction rod adjusted correctly this affects bump steer doesnt it?

i understand what u mean about the shocks then aswell as being shit

Edited by benr32gtr

the offset bush needs to be pressed in, not a hard job, a vice will do.(camber pins are for cars with a different suspesion design, in r32's case it is the uper arm that dictates the camber)

traction rod, this is one of the top arms in the multi link rear end, one top arm will change camber but when you change one length of one arm (shorter or longer) and leave the others the same length you are changing the path of the movement. there are 4 arms in the rear. to get the path correct you must marry the 2 top arms the same length. ie if you corrected camber by lengthening the arm by 5mm you must lengthen the traction rod buy 5mm also.

this also goes for the front arms, but a offset tierod end can cure this problem, just jap and UAS sell them but be sure to get the amount of bump steer measured by some one who knows how to because if you offset the tierods too much you will end up with the same amount or more of bump steer in the opposite direction.

hope all this makes sense.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Very decent bit of kit. Definitely black it out I reckon.  
    • Because people who want that are buying euros. The people with the money to buy the aftermarket heads and blocks aren’t interested in efficiency or making -7 power, they’re making well over 1,000hp and pretty much only drive them at full throttle  best way to way make money is know your customer base and what they want and don’t spend money making things they don’t want. 
    • It's not, but it does feel like a bit of a missed opportunity regardless. For example, what if the cylinder head was redesigned to fit a GDI fuel system? It's worth like two full points of compression ratio when looking at modern GDI turbo vs PFI turbo. I'm pretty reliably surprised at how much less turbo it takes to make similar power out of a modern engine vs something like an RB26. Something with roughly the same dimensions as a -7 on an S55 is making absolutely silly power numbers compared to an RB26. I know there's a ton of power loss from things like high tension rings, high viscosity oil, clutch fan, AWD standby loss, etc but it's something like 700 whp in an F80 M3 vs 400 whp in an R33 GTR. The stock TF035HL4W turbos in an F80 M3 are really rather dinky little things and that's enough to get 400 whp at 18 psi. This just seems unwise no? I thought the general approach is if you aren't knock limited the MFB50 should be held constant through the RPM range. So more timing with RPM, but less timing with more cylinder filling. A VE-based table should accordingly inverse the VE curve of the engine.
    • I've seen tunes from big name workshops with cars making in excess of 700kW and one thing that stood out to me, is that noone is bothering with torque management. Everyone is throwing in as much timing as the motor can take for a pull. Sure that yields pretty numbers on a dyno, but it's not keeping these motors together for more than a few squirts down the straight without blowing coolant or head gaskets. If tuners, paid a bit more attention and took timing out in the mid range, managed boost a bit better, you'll probably see less motors grenading. Not to name names, or anything like that, but I've seen a tune, from a pretty wild GT-R from a big name tuner and I was but perplexed on the amount of timing jammed into it. You would have expected a quite a bit less timing at peak torque versus near the limiter, but there was literally 3 degrees of difference. Sure you want to make as much as possible throughout the RPM range, but why? At the expense of blowing motors? Anyhow I think we've gone off topic enough once again lol.
    • Because that’s not what any of them are building these heads or blocks for. It’s to hold over over 1000hp at the wheels without breaking and none of that stuff is required to make power 
×
×
  • Create New...