Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys

I always loved 32 4 doors, so i decided to finally get one. Picked this on up fairly cheap, but needed some love. My plans are to keep it street regestered and tralor it to drift events. Anyway Mods listed below;

MODS

Manual Conversion

3 Puk ceramic cusco clutch

JIC Coilovers - 8kg front, 6kg rear.

RB25 Neo turbo

AM peformance Stainless Front/Dump pipe with Screemer

3" Cat back exhaust

600x300x76 Bar and plate cooler (will change to tube and fin eventually)

Generic Cooler piping

Apexi Boost guage

R33 GTR Rims 17x9 +30 all around with 215/45/r17 rubber

Future Mods

Shimm up the stock LSD

White Line Sway Bars fornt and rear

Front and rear strut braces

Adj Rear Camber arms

Adj Front camber arms

Adj Carster Rods

Oil Pressure, Water temp and Boost guages

GTR Front bar with N1 Slots

Full Re-Spray

and................................RIP SOME SKIDS!!!!!

The only pics that i have at the moment are shitty phone pics, but ill take some better ones later this week.

Image013.jpg

Image011.jpg

Image010.jpg

Image012.jpg

Hope you's enjoy

Edited by Lock_to_lock
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224953-my-r32-4-door-build-thread/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 74
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Ok not much of an update but meh.

In order to be a hekitc drifter you need to be part of a heckitc group of friends. So i got some stickers made up, purely for heckitc reasons. It fairly self explanatory.

BuiltnotBought.jpg

BuiltnotBought1.jpg

Edited by Lock_to_lock

Yeah same here, i wont be putting a kit on mine. Just GTR front. keeping it nice and simple

Well it doesn't look like ill be making it out to drift prac on July the 6th. Hopfully in the next few weeks ill get replacing the front seal, water pump and timing belt as well as shimming up the diff.

Ill keep this updated with any progress.

Cheers for the comments!

  • 3 weeks later...

Ok, bit of an update. Finally found a genuine gtr front bar, lip and reo :D

Image033.jpg

Image029.jpg

Image036.jpg

Hopefully will have the front seal, water pump and timing belt done in the next few weeks. Also got to pick up a few small things, order some sway bars and keep saving for re-spray!

Edited by Lock_to_lock

once again, thanks for the comments! I really need to stop taking pics with pov phone camera. might take some nicer ones tomorrow. Not to sure where to mount the number plate, was thinking about passenger side above the vent?

Damn you your cars looking good, Making me want to spend money on mine. Which I'm trying not to do atm, apart from the essentials. Would like to know how much your respray costs when you get it done, as I'm looking at getting mine resprayed in bayside blue again, as the paint could be a bit better.

Paid the deposit on the 25 last night, should pick it up in a week. 75,000kms, motor is clean as. Comes with everything. Loom, ecu, afm, stock cooler and piping. cant wait! Keep your lids peeled back for updates!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes, but no. You need to keep the mating surfaces bare (ie the flat faces where the caliper and upright pads touch the dogbone) and also the internal threads will remain bare (unless there are no internal threads - do they use nuts on all the bolts?). So you can slow down obvious external corrosion, but not all of it. Anodising would be required to provide decent protection to the alloy, but I'm not actually sure if you should anodise something that is all about the strength. Anodising does reduce strength significantly. Like, up to 50% on some alloys for high thickness coating.
    • Thanks   does painting on aluminium work or stop them from corroding?
    • 'Sgot nothing to do with them being Japanese. The climate in the north of Japan has similarities to the UK - the cars are made in the knowledge that they have snow and salt, and they rot there. Cars made in the US rot like buggery in the US. British cars have always rotted regardless of the weather. They will rot indoors in a climate controlled bubble! The brackets are not unsafe yet, but they will get that way. They may well corrode where the bolt threads are in contact and the bolts could just jump out without warning.
    • So unsafe would you say now?   little bit of has come off, guess road salt is a nightmare for Japanese car. Mx5 here have a well known issue or rotting 
    • Dissimilar metal corrosion. Aluminium is less noble than steel/iron, and will corrode preferentially when in contact with it and a conductive solution (ie, wet road salt). Tends to suggest that those brackets should be made in steel for a shitty climate like the UK.
×
×
  • Create New...