Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Update!!

Hey guys. thought i would update the thread.

I bought this car off the previous owner a few months back. I previously owned a black r31 coupe rb20 silvertop, but i had a minor mishap and ended up selling, so i now own this baby. I've got a few plans for it including some fresh paint, some more power and some handling upgrades.

Iv'e done a couple of minor things to the 32 since ive bought it, mainly cosmetic.

-Genuine Gtr bonnet (black)

-Genuine Gtr grille (black)

-Full amber indicators (Gtr look)

-Nismo gear knob

-Front strut brace

things going on the car in the very near future (already got, just gotta put on)

-Bosch 040 fuel pump

-GFB mechanical boost controller

-Remapped computer (jeff from the speedlab)

-New dash cluster

and here's a pic of it how it sits at the moment. Just ordered premium (CC) square plates front and rear for the complete jdm look.

IMG_0024.jpg

Edited by Greasy
  • Replies 74
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

cheers man. hopin to eventually get a respray in the new year, while im at it get the guards rolled and lipped all round and fit some lower offset dish wheels :D most likely gonna go with a silver respray with a black roof. mmm hot.

BOSCH 040 fuel pump successfully installed today.

Much thanks to the tutorial in the diy section for 'Installing A Bosch 040 Fuel Pump Into An R32' thread by eXc. copied it exactly, worked first time no issues. :D

also installed new rear speakers, will finish the rest of the system within a week or so.

Now for-

rising rate fuel reg,

remap,

possibly 2 stage electronic boost controller, (profec b II)

twin 3" straight pipes from muffler back.

Iv'e Had a chat to a few people, rising rate fuel reg won't be needed, and electronic boost controller is only needed for higher boost applications (will only be running 11-12 psi through the factory neo turbo) or if i really wanted two boost stages but if i'm only gonna be running 12 psi max then theres no point in having dual stage, as the bleed valve will be safe enough.

Having thought about these factors, and from what people have said, coilpacks should be the next mod on the list as RB's are prone for having problems with them.

so that means the list is now:

Mechanical bleed valve

Remap > 11~12psi > 210kw+

Twin straight pipes

splitfire coilpacks. (eventually..)

The remapped ecu that i bought recently is tuned for a s2 rb25 running standard turbo, bosch 040, 3", cooler etc. same as what i have on 10psi making 209kw with a continuous power curve. I am taking the ecu with me back to jeff from the speedlab (local tuner who has a very good reputation for safe yet very good power figures) to get it set up specifically for my application running hopefully more around the 12 psi mark. so i don't think im too far off thinking that it should still make at least 210kw. we'll see what happens once i actually get it tuned. :P

Installed an autometer sport-comp boost gauge today ready for when i get it remapped. Next to do will be high flow cat and twin straight pipes (from the first muffler back) should look and sound a lot tougher. then remap.

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'd want an even MORE side on view. More or less you want to make sure the outlet is actually square with the outermost part of the bumper. Or you end up getting soot all over your bumper from your hektik exhaust. In any case, it looks pretty close. I think the way to fix this is probably more of an overhaul at an exhaust specialty shop if you want tips that are rounded off or sit nicely with the bumper but have proper clearance and don't move - Probably more of a redesign than a quick fix. I've pencilled in my own exhaust with its own various problems, pinholes, PITA fitment, and other issues and can see myself going to a shop and saying "JUST DO THIS BUT BETTER?"  Which is gonna work better than any more small fixes. I'm gonna chime in here officially with "from an outsider perspective this exhaust looks fine so this is self OCD probably" (which I also suffer from)
    • Reminds me I really need to install that HKS oil cooler I bought years ago.
    • It be 40°C outside lately. 10W60 is a good idea here. Well, certainly 10W50.
    • Here are some side on's.
    • I just did an oil change on my daily which used oil that is probably 2-3 years old. Normally I try to follow exact viscosities, but my LS400 is fairly tolerant. Dumped something like half a quart of 0W30 Mobil1 ESP X2 in there, followed by 2 quarts Pennzoil 5W30, followed by ~1.2 quarts of liquimoly 5W30 LL04 spec oil. Then the rest was QS euro 5W40 which is actually so thin it's basically a 30 weight oil. All this is to say it doesn't matter that much. We aren't talking about brake fluid. For an RB I would recommend a high ZDDP oil because it doesn't use rollers in the interface between the cam and valve, but a 5W30 or 5W40 is fine to use for street use. The 10W60 guidance really only applies if you're getting it hot and pushing the engine hard.
×
×
  • Create New...