Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I will reprogram a 300ZX ECU for my RB25DET / Silvia, cause I can't find a R33 one(I live in Canada), and cause I can't reprogram R33.

So my question is, what are the stock timing map like?

I guess it will be very close to RB20DET , does it make sense?

I already got the RB20DET...but I would prefer to make sure that they are like RB25DET.

Also, does anybody as the firing order for RB25DET ? (I have to compare with a 300ZX engine..if there are not the same, I will switch injector and coil pack wiring.

There is an R33 Ecu for sell on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...&category=31250

Try getting 95 model as they have better fuel maps. I got 204 rwKw with stock 95 model ECU and stock turbo.

Lippo: Yes, it will probably go better with a 95 model ECU

S14Drift: The Daughterboards are not easily available and expensive. Badbiki doesn't have one, they are more complicated. You can get a new Hitachi H8-534 CPU from www.grid.co.jp and program it with new maps but it's like $300 windowed (reprogrammable) CPU and that's not all you need.

Originally posted by TomR33

You can get a new Hitachi H8-534 CPU from www.grid.co.jp and program it with new maps but it's like $300 windowed (reprogrammable) CPU and that's not all you need.

Sorry but I don't read japanese....

I have an eprom programmer, eprom eraser...and all that, I have been tuning SR20DET in Montreal(Canada) for almost a year now...

I can get a 300ZX ECU for less than 100 Aus...and then reprogram it... so paying 100$ for something I can't retune doesn't make sense to me.

Did the R32 RB20DET had the VTC too ? if so I can probably buy on of these (cause the have eprom on board) and tune that?

I would prefer a RB ECU for only one reason, they have 2 knock sensor input...and the 300 ZX only has 1....

S14Drift:Try this if you can't read Japanese, it will give you a rough English translation: http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/u...ml%2F28_07.html

The Rb20DET don't have VCT. That is the biggest problem in adapting Rb20DET ECU to RB25DET engine. Some people have done it by adding an additional board with a specially programmed PIC microcontroller and a transistor to control VCT.

Would you be able get me one of those 300ZX ECUs for less than $100 AUD?

Originally posted by TomR33

Would you be able get me one of those 300ZX ECUs for less than $100 AUD?

The best place is Ebay.com

There is a lot of these ECU for sale (at least 3 to 5 per week), some went for 38 $ US, and the last one I missed went for 43$ US...

If people don't want to ship it to Australia, I could have it ship here in Canada, then ship it back to you :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was poking through the R34 wiring diagrams vs R33 and noticed that the R34 has proper headlight relays while the R33 is like the R32 and sends full headlight power through the headlight switch. I'm not afraid of wiring but I really would like to do this in a way that looks OEM (clipping into open positions on the OEM relay box) and also unlike the factory wiring which interlocks the high beam and low beam on the halogen series 1 GTR headlights I want to make it such that turning on the high beams keeps the low beams on as well. Any advice on how to locate the specific connectors + crimp terminals + relays I need? I was thinking one NO relay for low beams and another for combined high + low running off the factory high beam headlight connector. I don't really want to splice into a crusty old probably discontinued factory harness so fully reversible is my goal here.
    • Pretty sure they run the same engine as the Q50 hybrid which specifies 95 RON.  I ran 98 in mine for a while, but it made no difference in performance or economy, so I have been using 95 for the last few years.  I have never hit 6.0L/100km, but have returned mid to high 6 on the highway.  Being a hybrid, fuel economy is a lot more dependant on how you drive it.  At 110km/h, mine never goes into EV mode on the highway, so returns closer to 7.5L/100. urban driving can return low 8s if you are careful or over 10 if you are a bit more enthusiastic on the throttle.
    • About a quarter of what you want to do. It's only R7R, not R&dismantle&replaceparts&reassemble&R. ? It is stock. I already told you, you will NOT have broken those. It's f**king 4th gear for Christ's sake. You just chipped the teeth off.
    • *waits* for chop idle videos and TT kit hanging off the motor. I like these sounds now, my inner bogan is growing.    
    • Want to buy a good running Rb20det in Sydney preferably complete or long block 
×
×
  • Create New...