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I had my car idling in the driveway warming up before work in the morning and it was all normal, then suddenly the 'tcs off' , 'slip' and Check engine lights came on. And at the same time the idle was briefly rough but went back to normal. I checked around the engine bay for loose hoses or connections but couldn't see anything wrong. Was in a rush so had to drive it to work and it drove fine(but with the check lights on).

When I got to work I turned the car off, then back on again, the check engine light was gone(the other 2 were still on). Turned it off, and back on, and all the check lights were gone. I figured the computer had played up and it was nothing so didn't follow up on it. Then a couple of weeks later it did the same thing. Still couldn't find anything wrong. Left it....

Then today as i went to drive off to work it happened again and this time felt a bit rough and was popping a bit at times.Also the 'ABS' light came on this time too. It was nearly like it was running down a cylinder. Once the car warmed up properly though it went away again and drove fine...Didnt happen on the way home at all again either.

The car has recently had a service and had engine/diff/gearbox oil+filter replaced, fuel filter replaced. And had supposedly had its 100k service b4 I bought it and it has 113k kms on it now. Before today its been driving fine and actually been pretty good on the fuel too if that helps.

Any ideas on what to start checking?

Loose connections? Coils? O2 Sensor? Fuel pump?

Any help would be appreciated, Cheers.

Edited by Scottydoo
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To check the error codes dont you need a specific computer or something? I've tried looking up the DIY of it but cant find it.

I'll give that coilpack load balance test a go though. I just get the feeling it will be them for some reason. I wouldn't mind getting Splitfire coils anyway, so hopefully its just them.

Cheers

Oh I've got the same problem too! But only TCS/SLIP/ENGINE comes on for mine, not ABS.

It disappears once i restart the car but never thought much of it, as i thought it was just some bad electrical thing.

Tell us how it goes with yours if you manage to fix it.

Check for blown fuses. Check your battery connections ensure they are clean, especially the ground wire as it is prone to corrode. Check for alternator belt slip, there could be a problem with charging/keeping constant charge. Since your car is a gtt - check the volt meter, voltage should be around 13V, voltage should not be lower than 12V

Hope this helps

Oh I've got the same problem too! But only TCS/SLIP/ENGINE comes on for mine, not ABS.

It disappears once i restart the car but never thought much of it, as i thought it was just some bad electrical thing.

Tell us how it goes with yours if you manage to fix it.

The ABS light didn't come on with mine either the first couple of times. I'll post up if/when I find a fix for this

Check for blown fuses. Check your battery connections ensure they are clean, especially the ground wire as it is prone to corrode. Check for alternator belt slip, there could be a problem with charging/keeping constant charge. Since your car is a gtt - check the volt meter, voltage should be around 13V, voltage should not be lower than 12V

Hope this helps

Yeah thanks, i'll check the fuses. The Voltage is fine though from the battery, sitting at about 14.7v all the time. All the connections seem fine too, I checked all that straight away.

Hopefully I have the time to check it all out this weekend

mine has done the same thing, and the consult thing says primary ignition error or something, mechanic screwed me over and making long story short, check ya coils.

i did a search on here, and everyone with these warning lights in a r34 fixed it by replacing coilpacks

i have spitfires on the way, so if u havent sollved it by then, ill let ya know how i go.

however mines gone one further and actually sounds like a WRX on steroids lol (( i think from a cylinder not firing or sometihng

  • 1 month later...

Just thought i'd post how my car is going now. I had some Splitfire coils and Iriduim plugs put in 2 weeks or so ago(along with Profec B + SAFC Neo while i was at it :D ) and i haven't had a problem since, hasn't lit up any of those warning lights and hasn't missed at all.

Only now very rarely the HICAS light will come on after i've put my foot down on high boost, which it never did before. Not sure what it is but i'm sure its nothing. The car is heaps more fun to drive now, doesn't feel so gutless like before. Had it tuned on 12psi tapering off to 9.5psi towards redline, made 186rwkw which is not too bad, gotta go back to Willowbank now to see what it can really do :rofl: any excuse will do!

  • 2 months later...
Just thought i'd post how my car is going now. I had some Splitfire coils and Iriduim plugs put in 2 weeks or so ago(along with Profec B + SAFC Neo while i was at it :miner: ) and i haven't had a problem since, hasn't lit up any of those warning lights and hasn't missed at all.

Only now very rarely the HICAS light will come on after i've put my foot down on high boost, which it never did before. Not sure what it is but i'm sure its nothing. The car is heaps more fun to drive now, doesn't feel so gutless like before. Had it tuned on 12psi tapering off to 9.5psi towards redline, made 186rwkw which is not too bad, gotta go back to Willowbank now to see what it can really do :P any excuse will do!

Hey Scotty,

I have the same problem - HICAS, TCS OFF, SLIP, Engine Light Symbol. So you recon replacing the coils with splitfires would solve the problem? It's electrical hey? What is "Profec B + SAFC Neo" Is that a whole new engine?

I will wait to hear from you.

Cheers

Davey

Hey Scotty,

I have the same problem - HICAS, TCS OFF, SLIP, Engine Light Symbol. So you recon replacing the coils with splitfires would solve the problem? It's electrical hey? What is "Profec B + SAFC Neo" Is that a whole new engine?

I will wait to hear from you.

Cheers

Davey

Hi Davey,

The coils were the problem for me, but it may or may not be the problem for you. If you can afford some splitfire coils i'd recommend changing them anyway because from what i've read most guys with r34's end up changing them anyway.

A profec B is an electronic boost controller, and an SAFC NEO is an Air Fuel controller not a new engine. Do a quick search on them and you'll find plenty of info around about them.

Edited by Scottydoo
Hi Davey,

The coils were the problem for me, but it may or may not be the problem for you. If you can afford some splitfire coils i'd recommend changing them anyway because from what i've read most guys with r34's end up changing them anyway.

A profec B is an electronic boost controller, and an SAFC NEO is an Air Fuel controller not a new engine. Do a quick search on them and you'll find plenty of info around about them.

Hey Scotty, thanks for the prompt reply. I will change to splitfire coils. I have been looking at getting a boost controller and will look into the air fuel controller too. I'm in WA, is there a website that has a list of workshop specialist that would know the car inside out? Any recommendations?

Other people have brought up to:

-Download ECU diagnostics to see errors and go from there

-Change coils, sparkplugs (Inidium plugs?) and battery (which I need to do anyway)

-Look into the speed sensor as it is a component of the HICAS and TCS

-Look at if any of the sensors are playing up

-Replace oil in engine, diff and gearbox and any filters

-Check for any loose connections

-Do a coil pack load balance test

-Check the ignitor as it may be on its way out

-Could be a blown fuse, faulty battery connections or aren't clean, corroded wire, could be alternator belt slipping, ensure the battery V is at least 12 or 13V

-Tune the boost

Any other ideas or which ones may help the most?

Thanks

Davey

Hey Scotty, thanks for the prompt reply. I will change to splitfire coils. I have been looking at getting a boost controller and will look into the air fuel controller too. I'm in WA, is there a website that has a list of workshop specialist that would know the car inside out? Any recommendations?

Other people have brought up to:

-Download ECU diagnostics to see errors and go from there

-Change coils, sparkplugs (Inidium plugs?) and battery (which I need to do anyway)

-Look into the speed sensor as it is a component of the HICAS and TCS

-Look at if any of the sensors are playing up

-Replace oil in engine, diff and gearbox and any filters

-Check for any loose connections

-Do a coil pack load balance test

-Check the ignitor as it may be on its way out

-Could be a blown fuse, faulty battery connections or aren't clean, corroded wire, could be alternator belt slipping, ensure the battery V is at least 12 or 13V

-Tune the boost

Any other ideas or which ones may help the most?

Thanks

Davey

Mate sorry but i wouldn't have a clue who to recommend over in WA, have a look in the WA section and ask in there?

I'd say to try the easy and cheap things first, if no luck with that i'm no mechanic but i'd go for coils then igniter pack. Only going off my personal experience but to be honest bud it may be a completely different problem. I doubt changing all your oils will fix your problem, but sure wouldn't hurt.

If you end up going for coils and you are going to get a boost controller and SAFC as well be sure to get them all installed at once and save yourself having to pay for multiple tunes. Be aware also if you up the boost and power you may need to upgrade your fuel pump + maybe get a Fuel pressure regulator as well(as a start). Depends what your after powerwise though, and there's heaps of info on upgrades if you search on here.

Hey guys, probably a totally different problem but a while ago I had my TCS, slip and ABS lights coming on. Had it scanned and found it just needed a new wheel speed sensor. But I didnt have the engine light come on and had no misfire obviously lol.

Good luck!

Hey guys, probably a totally different problem but a while ago I had my TCS, slip and ABS lights coming on. Had it scanned and found it just needed a new wheel speed sensor. But I didnt have the engine light come on and had no misfire obviously lol.

Good luck!

Hey Jase, thanks mate. I will see if the splitfires make a difference and then look at changing the wheel speed sensor to see if it will solve the HICAS problem.

I'll post a comment with the results. By the sounds of it there are a lot of people having the same problem. I'm no expert on cars, I just enjoy driving them lol. For others reading this, from what I have been told, the most common solutions for lights such as TCS, SLIP, HICAS and the engine light are to replace the coils with splitfires, check plugs are clean (perhaps upgrade), check the wheel speed sensor, check battery and fuses. You could get a coilpack load balance test or download the ECU information to show the errors too.

Cheers

Dave

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