Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yer car is good quality 176xxx kms on the clock but only 50,000kms on the motor

94 so series 1

Extractors, Exedy clutch few basic mods relatively quick car

Good for P plater

All good selling points

But im more interested in an average price

Ive seen some selling for $6000 and others selling for $15000 so it makes it hard to say the actual value

Are non-turbos worth more than turbos now?

Edited by homedog56
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225211-value/#findComment-3966063
Share on other sites

Yeah, Series II's go for about 13 - 16K, Series I's unfortunately go for about 7 - 12K max.

I was looking into getting a R33 before, thats why i got a fresh idea of the prices, but then stumbled on the R34.

I'd pay 9 - 11k Max for your ride, truly because as Shane said, the KM's are a turn off.

But good luck with the sale anyways if you go ahead with it.

MRXTCZ

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225211-value/#findComment-3966840
Share on other sites

i payed 11.5 for mine a few weeks back (my new 1)

its a 95 series 1.5 with zorst rims and a kick ass stereo already on it (cost the guy 4500 for it installed got receipts) and it is in really mint condition the paintwork and tint and all. 140,000 on clock.

hope this helps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225211-value/#findComment-3968275
Share on other sites

I picked mine up at Christmas for $8500

White 1993 R33 Series 1 GTS with factory sunroof. 104,000km on the clock, no mods beyond 17" rims, pod and exhaust.

Add on an extra $1000 for new head unit (was stock Jap one, with Japanese frequencies and a cassette player), alarm, immobilizer and rego.

However, my mechanic looked it over and said it was worth at least $10,000. I just got lucky.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225211-value/#findComment-3970784
Share on other sites

What about mine?

96 Series 2, 65,000km, silver, no mods, sideskirts, genuine gtr spoiler and 17's?

Because I'm thinking of selling mine too

I'd be skeptical of your k's. I was told the clock on almost all imports is wound back somewhere between here and Japan, and numbers that low tell me that its almost a guarantee.

I remember looking at a GTS4 R33 that claimed it had 60,000kms on it. Just looking at the interior alone it looked like it had done 300,000. When looking at cars now I don't tend to worry so much about the k's, and just look at how clean the interior and engine bay is. I don't know enough to look beyond that even if I wanted to anyway.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225211-value/#findComment-3970809
Share on other sites

I'd be skeptical of your k's. I was told the clock on almost all imports is wound back somewhere between here and Japan, and numbers that low tell me that its almost a guarantee.

I remember looking at a GTS4 R33 that claimed it had 60,000kms on it. Just looking at the interior alone it looked like it had done 300,000. When looking at cars now I don't tend to worry so much about the k's, and just look at how clean the interior and engine bay is. I don't know enough to look beyond that even if I wanted to anyway.

Frankly that comment just goes to show how ignorant you are about cars. as long as you have the import papers showing the km's on it, you should be pretty right. the average australian does about 15k a year, and it depends if its a daily or just a weekend'er.

in Japan when the cars get serviced the km's get entered into a DB, and when the car gets dereged to get exported they compare whats on the car with the DB to make sure they match up and if it doesnt look right they mark it on the papers.

Importing your self you shouldnt have too much worry, but buying from an import dealer, you should always ask for the import papers, and if they arent willing to show them to you, dont buy the car.

Edited by Grunta
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225211-value/#findComment-3971023
Share on other sites

I'd be skeptical of your k's. I was told the clock on almost all imports is wound back somewhere between here and Japan, and numbers that low tell me that its almost a guarantee.

I remember looking at a GTS4 R33 that claimed it had 60,000kms on it. Just looking at the interior alone it looked like it had done 300,000. When looking at cars now I don't tend to worry so much about the k's, and just look at how clean the interior and engine bay is. I don't know enough to look beyond that even if I wanted to anyway.

Oh, forgot to mention..I have all the service records when the car was brand new in Japan to it leaving the docks of Japan with 59,000km's on the clock. All the service records has the dates on it from Nissan, so I'd think it is pretty genuine....

Anyway, back to my question, how much is it worth?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225211-value/#findComment-3971045
Share on other sites

Oh, forgot to mention..I have all the service records when the car was brand new in Japan to it leaving the docks of Japan with 59,000km's on the clock. All the service records has the dates on it from Nissan, so I'd think it is pretty genuine....

Anyway, back to my question, how much is it worth?

I'd personally say (this is just my guess - I have little experience to back it up) at least $14,000, if not more. Late model and low k's all help a lot. The colour and wing tickle my personal fancy as well.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225211-value/#findComment-3971188
Share on other sites

I'd personally say (this is just my guess - I have little experience to back it up) at least $14,000, if not more. Late model and low k's all help a lot. The colour and wing tickle my personal fancy as well.

It's so weird how everyone tells me the price of an NA skyline has gone up, due to the new P plate law.

But is that actually true? has it actually gone up in value?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225211-value/#findComment-3971218
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know this one’s the BB one. My tuner did make mention about the actuator. I am curious about the VCT as well
    • Might also needs a stronger actuator with the right preloading. With older 2019 built bush G3 units, BB upgrade or 21U housing down size makes a pretty decent gain in response as well. 
    • Hey lads  so im finally putting together my rb30 forged bottom end and ran into an issue. I measured my main bearing clearance with arp main studs torqued to 60 ft-lbs using ACL H series STD size bearings and standard, un-ground crank shaft journals and got an oil clearance reading of about 1.3 thou measuring straight up and down and about 2.8 thou measuring at a 45 degree angle (just above and below the parting line). My machine shop said they measured the main tunnel and it was all within spec (they didnt say the actual measurement) and to go with a standard size bearing, which i have done and the clearance is too tight, I'm guessing because of the extra clamping force from the arp studs distorting the main tunnel. I was wanting to run about 2.5 thou main bearing clearance.  My questions are: 1. could i just use the HX extra 1 thou clearance ACL bearings? that would fix my straight up and down clearance making it about 2.3 thou, but then would the side to side clearance be too big at around 3.8 thou? 2. what actually is the recommended main bearing clearance for measuring near the parting line / side to side. i know its supposed to be bigger as the bearing has some eccentricity built into it but how much more clearance should there be compared to the straight up and down measurement? at the moment there is about 1.5thou difference, is that acceptable or should it be less? 3. If i took the engine block + girdle back to the machine shop and got them to line bore the main tunnel (like i told them to do the first time, but they said it didnt need it) what bearing size would i buy? the STD size bearing shells already slide in fairly easily with no real resistance, some even falling out if i tip the girdle up-side-down. If im taking material out of the main tunnel would i need a bearing with extra material on the back side to make up for it? this is probably confusing af to read so if something doesn't make sense let me know and ill try explaining in a different way. My machine shop doesn't come back from christmas break until mid January, hence why i'm asking these questions here. TIA for any help or info 
    • I bought the model back in Japan in Feb. I realised I could never build it, looked around for people who could build it, turns out there's some very skilled people out there that will make copies of 1:1 cars or near enough. I'm not really a photo guy... but people were dragging me in a group chat for the choice of bumper as someone else saw the car before it was finished as they are also a customer of that shop. I took the photo in the above post because I was pretty confident that the lip would work wonders for it. Here's some more in-progress and almost-done pics. It gives a good enough idea as to what the rear looks like!   I have also booked in a track day at the end of January. Lets all hope that is nothing but pure fun and games. If it's not pure fun and games, well, I've already got half an engine spare in the cupboard 
    • Well, do ya, punk? Seriously though, let's fu<king go! The colour and kit looks amazing on the car. Do you have any shots from the rear? I don't quite follow how the model came around. You bought the white kit and he modified it to match your car? Looks nuts either way!
×
×
  • Create New...