Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, just thought I'd let you know how car dealerships can shaft you... or they think they can:D

I purchased my R33 almost 2 months ago from a car yard out the other side of Melbourne. When I first inspected the car it had about 58,000kms on it, pretty well stock and in good nick. The only non-standard stuff was the sound system and a turbo timer. As there were a few R33's there I wanted the dealer to throw in something a little extra to sweeten the deal, this being a set of Volk Challenge rims. These rims were on another car at the time, but they said they could work something out... The rims had a few gutter scrapes and what not on em, but they were going to fix them up, as well as give the car a detail.

I picked up my car and went for a drive down the country, and noticed that the steering wheel was shaking a bit (which didn't happen when it had the stockies on), so I took it into Pedders for a suspension check - seemed the logical thing to do.

The car failed about 5 tests, mainly ball joints and what not, and they said that this car wouldn't pass a roadworthy. They also suggested getting the wheels balanced too. I did this and then found out that one of the rear wheels was buckled:mad: I was now very pissed off, as I had 1 buckled wheel, which also didn't have a roadworthy tyre on it, as well as $2000 worth of suspension that needed to be replaced...

Seeing as this car was still under statutory warranty, I informed the dealership and they asked me to fax them the Pedders quote, which I did. They then asked me to drop the car in for them to look at, which I did on Monday.

During this time, I called consumer affairs to know where I stood... And they told me what I needed to know.

Anyway, today the dealership rings up and says that there's nothing wrong with the car and that it's roadworthy. They then told me that they weren't going to do anything with the rims, as they are 2nd hand - go figure! As well as this, they've manage to snap the front wheel stud off and blamed it on the tyre joint for tightening it up too much and wont pay for it to be replaced, but I'm up for $88 for them to fix it. And then to rub it in, they're going to charge me for having the car looked at!!!!

So as you can understand, I'm very pissed off:mad:

I've lodged a complaint with consumer affairs, and have talked to Vicroads. Vicroads informed me that I need to go to another licensed roadworthy joint and get them to look at it. If they then give me the pic/regection slip I need then I need to talk to some other mob, who'll investigate.

Someone told me that I should have had this all looked at before, but the dealership told me that they do a thourough check over the vehicle and they don't give out bodgy roadworthies (note that they don't do the roadworthy themselves).

Anyone else had something like this happen?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22537-car-dealers/
Share on other sites

Problem is every dealer has their own little dodgy roadworthy place they use (probably their brother, cousin, or whoever else)... and can get stuff that through that is clearly not roadworthy. If every member of the public had access to the same RWC places then imagine we could all get through roadworthy..

hmmm... sounds just like that wheel is dodgy but well it could be a sign that something more major is going on.. be a bit weary of a Pedders suspension check. There is a reason the check is so cheap, and that is because they obviously want you to get every little thing fixed up through them. They may well have picked up things that are indeed worn, but may not provide an obvious danger or need replacing for many years to come.

I'd take it to a general garage and get them to look over it and see what they think.

Also, always get an independent test by RACV or the like before you purchase a vehicle, especially from a dealer. But too late now i guess, but as a warning to others - don't get too carried away by the visual appearance of a car.. thats when troubles occur.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22537-car-dealers/#findComment-483883
Share on other sites

Hmm, I've got a feeling you're being gypped from both sides. I've never heard of a Skyline that's had all its ball joints worn out at only 58000km. Sure it might have been wound back, but check the condition of the rest of the car. Is it blowing any smoke? Gearbox crunchy? If it's in otherwise good nic I think that maybe Pedders might be trying to scam $2000 out of you.

Wait and see what your local garage guy has to say. You might want to tell him beforehand that you're not getting him to do any work that might be needed, just to discourage him from lying about what needs to be done.

The buckled rim should be repairable, especially if you can't tell it's bent just by looking at it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22537-car-dealers/#findComment-485411
Share on other sites

Cheers Jim, picked the car up this morning... Need to get wheel stud fixed and book it in for a look over. The car was in the best shape there and very clean - engine & body - that's why I chose it. I too am a bit suss on them winding back the clock, but no smoke, everything else seems to be fine.

I didn't think you could repair a buckled rim... Aren't alloys supposed to crack rather than buckle???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22537-car-dealers/#findComment-486828
Share on other sites

I got a call this morning from the NSW Office of Fair Trading after making an enquiry with them regarding my odometer being wound back and the dealer selling it to me as if it was low mileage.

Basically the car was sold with XX,XXX km on the clock but later there was evidence found to say the timing belt was changed at XX,XXXkm + 30,000 extra KM.

They seemed very very keen for me to persue it further and have told me what to do. So there may be some resolution.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22537-car-dealers/#findComment-486882
Share on other sites

I work in the car industry and here's what I reckon.

1. When you buy a new car, and take it somehwere (pedders/mechanic) and tell them that youve just bought it, most of the time they will pick the shit out of the car. Pedders = $$$$$$$$$$$$$ !

2. I would put money on that car being wound back here or in Japan.

3. Any car you are looking at buying, PAY to get a mechanic you know/trust to check it out first. (if you are on really good terms you may not have to pay) If you just get some random dude mechanic to check it out you never know.

4. RACQ (qld) will find something wrong with any car, they were caught out finding problems with brand new car on some TV show apparently. It is their job to find things wrong with a car. Might be too hard on the car.

5. When dealing with them when you have a drama, stay calm, cool, and don't cause a scene. This will get you a long way, and if it doesn't, just get consumer affairs/fair trading on the phone to them, but dont go making threats straight away.

So basically go No. 3, and get a car with real k's, drive it before you sign the paperwork (with the new wheels on in this instance), and keep control of the situation.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22537-car-dealers/#findComment-487809
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes...but look at the numbers. There is a tiny tiny fraction of the number of Joules available, compared to what is used/needed. Just because things are "possible" doesn't make them meaningful.
    • Thanks for taking the time to post that ! If anything changes or happens please do update us. 
    • Somehow Vertimass/Oak Ridge National Labs has figured out a catalyst that can convert ethanol into C9-C10 hydrocarbons in basically a single step without ending up with a bunch of ethylene or similar waste products: https://patents.google.com/patent/WO2023224867A1/en I still don't think anything like this will keep us from needing to transition to EVs regardless along with all kinds of other electrification, but things like this will go a long way towards alleviating the problem of how to electrify things like planes. Renewable diesel is seemingly an easier problem as well, Chevron is already running refineries for the stuff and the primary feedstock is tallow and other waste fats from agriculture.
    • Ok so I have sorted everything with my uniclutch and  i can offer up a bit of feedback and some things that might help others.    I found problems with factory damper line. Weird shit and had trouble with peddle adjustment    I used this https://au.gktech.com/products/r33-gts-t-skyline-braided-clutch-line?_pos=2&_sid=22b01b9b9&_ss=r Also when adjusting peddle leave a bit of play. You can get into a over stroke condition easy.. Make sure you can push the slave forward after adjusting to confirm fluid can return to master then you will need to pump it up heaps…..not sure why but that’s how it is.    last thing the splined adapter is machined perfectly. If your input shaft is old like mine was I would put a bit of valve grinding paste on it and stroke it like a 15 year old. Just to give it a tad more clearance and to better match it to the spline.    reason is on a near flat shift I have had situation where the peddle returns a millisecond after you lift from the clutch. No slip or anything but I reckon this is due to tolerance on the spline being way tighter than stock clutch and binding for a sec. I think this will go away but also my spline was old. Box is old so I guess I should have checked better. It’s a super neat fit.    it feels light as and holds awesome without any noise    
    • My Fuga Hybrid is JDM, 2014 model but very similar to the V37 from the looks of things..same platform just physically larger and very comfortab;e
×
×
  • Create New...