Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nice clean work there, mate - looks good. Personally I wouldn't mount both the mid and tweeter in the kickpanel. Maybe do the mid there and find a place for the tweeter where there's still a clear path for the sound to reach the ears of the people in the car. High frequencies are very directional, and you'll lose them altogether if they're down by your feet. I put mine up behind the mounts for the wing mirrors which works fine. Ideally they should be closer to the main driver, but it was easier this way.

I've never seen that door/seat trim in a 32 before? Is that an NA model or something? EDIT: Ah, it's a 4 door by the looks of it?

Edited by HuH
  • 4 weeks later...

Hasn't anyone put speakers in their r32 kickpanels before?

I cut the middle out of my kickpanels and mounted the speakers in mdf rings that were held in place with metal straps.

post-13288-1216560238_thumb.jpg

I listened to them like this and tried different angles by adjusting the straps.

Once I was happy with the sound I made fibreglass backings and stretched fabric over them before coating them in resin and laying fg matting behind them.

post-13288-1216561214_thumb.jpg

After a bit of sanding they are ready to cover in vinyl.

post-13288-1216560441_thumb.jpg

Due to the complicated contours the vinyl will have to be vacuum formed so I've sent them away to be done.

I'll post more pics when they're finished.

Awesome job.. but the problem with having speakers so low and fr away in the footwell is that it bring the "Stage" of the music very low.

I used a single 3 inch tweeter at the base of the A pillar and it really opens the sound up and brings the tage almost head level..

I was hugely surprised.

Just a thought..

Awesome job.. but the problem with having speakers so low and fr away in the footwell is that it bring the "Stage" of the music very low.

I used a single 3 inch tweeter at the base of the A pillar and it really opens the sound up and brings the tage almost head level..

I was hugely surprised.

Just a thought..

It's much easier to get stage height than it is to achieve a solid centre image in a car.

The main reason for placing speakers in the kickpanels is to get them as far away as possible so that the difference in the distance between the left and the right speaker and the listener is as small as possible.

There can be issues with stage height but careful postioning and angling of the speakers and tuning with an equaliser can help overcome this.

I spent time listening to this setup before building it in fibreglass and the stage is dash top height at low volume but rises above that as the volume increases.

thats brilliant man, great job, very good idea with the metal bar too, i would even suggest doing the same for the passenger, there is nothing worse than having a passenger come in and kick the crap out of your nice new setup, and it looks kinda stylish too.

I agree with the placement of the tweeters that they should be up higher, i think that you can go wrong putting them on the panel opposite the door mirrors, considering its a common place its probably because it works well.

But anyhow nice work, look forward to seeing the tweeters in

thats brilliant man, great job, very good idea with the metal bar too, i would even suggest doing the same for the passenger, there is nothing worse than having a passenger come in and kick the crap out of your nice new setup, and it looks kinda stylish too.

I agree with the placement of the tweeters that they should be up higher, i think that you can go wrong putting them on the panel opposite the door mirrors, considering its a common place its probably because it works well.

But anyhow nice work, look forward to seeing the tweeters in

I thought about using a bar on the passenger's side but if I put it in the same position as the bar needs to be on the driver's side it wouldn't do much to protect the speakers anyway.

I'm not sure I follow your comments regarding tweeter placement, typo perhaps?

There is no perfect place for speakers in a car so placement will always be a compromise.

The bottom speaker is my tweeter.

I said why I chose this setup in a previous post.

The stage height is quite good, even excellent at higher volume.

Our ears are easily tricked by careful alignment.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This sounds like a perfect excuse to install a Haltech R3.
    • I do believe from context he is talking about a S0/S1 R33 RB25 with associated ECU and Wiring for that, and a manual gearbox into a R34 N/A Auto. I don't have the knowledge of all the pinouts and such but my gut feeling from doing my own conversion is to use as much of the R33 stuff that you can. The "car" wiring is quite seperate from the "Engine" wiring when all things are considered. The only things to truly consider 99% of the time is the cluster, reverse lights and potentially disabling the 'not in P/N' immobilizer circuit.
    • A realistic expectattion of how long it has to last also comes down to.... when do you think you will be banned from registering and driving old petrol powered shitters? It's 27 years since that thing was built. It probably rusted out 15 years ago. It was probably repaired and looked OK for another 10. If you do a similarish bodge job now, or perhaps slightly better with some actual rust conversion and glassing, then.... get another 10-15 years out of it, after which you'll only be permitted by the CCP to drive electric cars manufactured in their Shenzen zone anyway. 
    • Let me assume that the concern over a manual ECU is that the NeoDET that you have was an auto and has an auto ECU. That ECU will not be a problem, but you WILL have to Nistune it. And you would have to Nistune it even if you had a manual ECU, because the turbo ECUs will shit the bed if they do not have all the things that they were told they have to have, to be happy. The big one being the TCS CU, which you won't have in your car. Anyway, with an auto ECU (which I have running my originally auto NeoDET in an R32) Nistune allows you to put in a Stagea image which doesn't panic about the absent TCS, and allows you to override a whle bunch of other annoyances that would otherwise see the check engine light on 100% of the time. Also, you can't wind up the power very far on the stock NeoDET ECUs without Nistune, because the boost sensor gets in the way. Nistune allows you to push that problem much further up the dial. Do you even have the boost sensor with the engine? Without it, you are SOL and will need an aftermarket ECU (or to find a sensor somewhere, god knows where). I can't tell you what the wiring loom differences are in a 34. But what Duncan said above needs to be considered. When you say "loom", does that include the transmission loom? Because you will need to swap out the auto tranny loom for the equivalent manual loom, and get rid of the neutral/park start interlock (basically hot wire it).
    • I have had the r3c in for years now, maybe close to 7 years and it has never missed a beat, anyone can drive it. Super easy to drive around town, the hotter it gets does get a little hard but it holds the power easy as 
×
×
  • Create New...