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Hey guys,

Just wondering if anyone out their has done the expensive way of dropping a rb25det motor into their r33 gts non turbo?

It was one of the worst ways I could do it in the end! cost me $8,500 for the conversion including the motor etc.

Is there anyone out there? :)

Ive still got the non turbo brakes, gearbox, diff etc

was talked into doin it could have sold it and got one with the brakes etc :(

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225419-r33-gts-converted-to-a-turbo-motor/
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lol itd be cheaper to sell your non-turbo and buy a turbo, in my opinion.

if you drop a det into your non turbo, youll have to change your brakes (you dont HAVE to, but for safety reasons..)

probably your fuel lines + system

throw some gauges inside.

it all gets a bit messy.

simpler to sell, and buy a turbo.

my 2c.

Eug could probably clear up. (gosh i love relying on you Eug. You're just so reliable haha)

u dun reli need to upgrade ur brakes, u could just get new na rotors n pads n use them (as the current rotors u have r probz around 15 years old)

it shouldnt have cost u that much all up, on average the rb25det engine cost 2.5k n at most should cost another grand at most to take out ur engine n drop in n hook up the loom of the new one

u can also keep the diff, but just shim it n it should b all good

ur clutch wont b able to handle the new power so u will needa heavey duty one

to the dude above who sed its easier to sell his current skyline n buy another one, just a question for u, have u checked out the for sale section in this forum for whole cars? well theres alot of sweet ass skylines there that have been on the sellers market for a long time.

lol sounds a bit dodgy. how many times have you broken down on the side of the road 'jkeys' ?

id like to have the comfort of knowing everything on my car can handle the power that a DET produces.

N/A skylines have sold like hotcakes since the introduction of the new p-plate laws in nsw. why do you think theyre just as expensive as the turbo cars?

personally, if i was in Chris' position, id just sell my n/a, and just get a gtst....actually id go back to my old LPG ffalcon :D

again, my 2c.

u dun reli need to upgrade ur brakes, u could just get new na rotors n pads n use them (as the current rotors u have r probz around 15 years old)

it shouldnt have cost u that much all up, on average the rb25det engine cost 2.5k n at most should cost another grand at most to take out ur engine n drop in n hook up the loom of the new one

u can also keep the diff, but just shim it n it should b all good

ur clutch wont b able to handle the new power so u will needa heavey duty one

to the dude above who sed its easier to sell his current skyline n buy another one, just a question for u, have u checked out the for sale section in this forum for whole cars? well theres alot of sweet ass skylines there that have been on the sellers market for a long time.

Its not just the brakes you dont get with a trubo model, LSD, traction control, hicas, better suspension, plus a few other minor things.

better off to sell the NA and buy a turbo if you want a turbo.

to the dude above who sed its easier to sell his current skyline n buy another one, just a question for u, have u checked out the for sale section in this forum for whole cars? well theres alot of sweet ass skylines there that have been on the sellers market for a long time.

That's the thing... I've got an N/A 33... and was weighing up the options:

1. Sell my car, buy an R33 GTST or, if I could afford it, and R34GTT

2. Do a full RB25DET engine-swap

3. Do an RB25DE -> RB25DE+T conversion.

I've decided to go with option 3.

My reasoning on this is:

Okay... an N/A skyline isn't exactly the easiest thing to sell in the first place... I've looked around and I reckon I'd get about 8-9K at best. Then I've gotta find a nice 33 or 34 turbo... looking at between 12 and 25 this way... so I'm between 3K and 17K in the red. This has been a great car when I was on P's and I know the history (well... at least the last 3ish years). It's got a completely custom CarPuter install with a custom fabricated dash (touch-screen in the dash running up to a computer in the boot running custom-written software). Oh, and the engine's most certainly never been boosted past... well...0psi! This pretty much rules out option 1.

A full engine swap was an option, but after looking around it would appear that it would be pretty pricey all up... looking at around 3-3.5K for a decent engine with loom and ECU, plus either LOTS of my own time and effort, or pay someone a few grand to do the swap.

I knew I could get an RB25DET with a broken rod for about $500, and after pricing up everything I need to do the conversion I've set a budget of 2K. I've been buying here and there, and I've now got pretty much everything for a tad over $1500. This includes: the afforementioned RB25DET with turbo, manifolds, dump/front pipe, etc, a GReddy eManage Blue and loom, a Hybrid FMIC and piping kit, a TurboSmart boost controller, and a few other little bits and pieces. I'm planning to do it over a few weekends, so I'll do everythign that I can before the car has to be taken off the road (i.e. I can fit up the FMIC one weekend, the eManage can be hooked up but disabled the next, I can install the boost gauge but not hook it up, etc... then only once everything else is ready will I do the actual engine work.

I'm expecting plenty of surprises, but this is all part of the learning curve. Yes, I'll be running high-compression, and therefore limited to fairly low boost levels, but this will only add to the fun :D

Its not just the brakes you dont get with a trubo model, LSD, traction control, hicas, better suspension, plus a few other minor things.

better off to sell the NA and buy a turbo if you want a turbo.

Hmmm... My N/A 33 has an LSD, HICAS, and aftermarket coilovers... the only thing I'm missing is traction control... which I'd probably be turning off anyway :D

That's the thing... I've got an N/A 33... and was weighing up the options:

1. Sell my car, buy an R33 GTST or, if I could afford it, and R34GTT

2. Do a full RB25DET engine-swap

3. Do an RB25DE -> RB25DE+T conversion.

I've decided to go with option 3.

My reasoning on this is:

Okay... an N/A skyline isn't exactly the easiest thing to sell in the first place... I've looked around and I reckon I'd get about 8-9K at best. Then I've gotta find a nice 33 or 34 turbo... looking at between 12 and 25 this way... so I'm between 3K and 17K in the red. This has been a great car when I was on P's and I know the history (well... at least the last 3ish years). It's got a completely custom CarPuter install with a custom fabricated dash (touch-screen in the dash running up to a computer in the boot running custom-written software). Oh, and the engine's most certainly never been boosted past... well...0psi! This pretty much rules out option 1.

A full engine swap was an option, but after looking around it would appear that it would be pretty pricey all up... looking at around 3-3.5K for a decent engine with loom and ECU, plus either LOTS of my own time and effort, or pay someone a few grand to do the swap.

I knew I could get an RB25DET with a broken rod for about $500, and after pricing up everything I need to do the conversion I've set a budget of 2K. I've been buying here and there, and I've now got pretty much everything for a tad over $1500. This includes: the afforementioned RB25DET with turbo, manifolds, dump/front pipe, etc, a GReddy eManage Blue and loom, a Hybrid FMIC and piping kit, a TurboSmart boost controller, and a few other little bits and pieces. I'm planning to do it over a few weekends, so I'll do everythign that I can before the car has to be taken off the road (i.e. I can fit up the FMIC one weekend, the eManage can be hooked up but disabled the next, I can install the boost gauge but not hook it up, etc... then only once everything else is ready will I do the actual engine work.

I'm expecting plenty of surprises, but this is all part of the learning curve. Yes, I'll be running high-compression, and therefore limited to fairly low boost levels, but this will only add to the fun :D

Hey mate, good luck with it, just when you do it make sure you check everything, i just did another 30e+t (i know its a different kettle of fish) but my fuel pump let go on me and melted 3 pistons. It was obviosly fine enough for small n/a power, but running only 4psi into it (at the plenum) was all over. $50 for a new bottom end + <$100 for gaskets (head, water pump, sump gasket goo) and a fair few weekends work and its all back together and running beautiful (with more compresion than before @ spot on 155psi per cyl -head shaved) but this time i got a fuel pressure gauge onto it, when i high revved it pressure would sag about 15psi, threw in my bosch inline 044 wound it up the reg to about 40psi and it loves 8psi no problems (goes hard and 1800rpm full boost, kkr430, picks the front of the car up haha)

so yeah lesson learned, check your fuel pressure, wind your timing back (to 10 deg or so) and baby it to a dyno to check the a/f ratio's and safely wind the timing back up. The only problem with high compression (just like high boost) is by the time you hear it ping - its too late. That said rb25's are alot more advanced and even with there higher compression, are more tollerant than a 30e (esp one with higher than stock comp) plus you have knock sensors etc.

A mate of mine did an R33 RB25de to turb conversion, ran 9psi didnt touch the timing or fuel pressure, got 210rwkw, his only problem was rich and retard from any more boost than that, but larger injectors and an safc (cheap way out of full aftermarket management) could have helped that a bit.

cheers

yep.

as i said in my first post,

it gets very messy....and its a big hassle...

+ cant run high boost with a turbo conversion unless you get new pistons.

well that depends, are you after high boost... or high power?

imo for a street driven stock internals car, an rb25de+t can get insane power, with a good tuner theres no reason why you couldnt hit the same power limit as a factory turbo. Dont forget its not the boost figures that matter the less boost for the most power the better (i.e. you make your engine flow instane and tune it well, you wont need sfa boost for good power) and generally higher compression will mean better off boost drivabiliy, less lag etc (when tuned for it).

When you want to make serious power, just like with a factory turbo, its time to rebuild the engine anyway, and then you can give it 7:1 CR if thats what floats your boat.

I really dont understand the hesitation to turbo the n/a motor, so whats the worst that will happen? you'll f**k it up and she'll pop, who cares? you were going to change it anyway, just buy a bare long motor cheap and drop it in (as you'll already have all the gear, probably after market better stuff anyway) but if you dont f**k it up, you have a better engine (that you know the history of) for cheaper and less hastle.

  • Like 1

Hey guys thanks for your replys yeah I actually did the conversion im just saying it's not worth it and was wondering if there was anyone out there that has choosen the same path I did? sorry to confuse u blokes :) I got it done about 2 and a half years ago It cost $3,900 for the conversion kit from ichibahn and $2000 for the labour and more for the timing belt, new oil etc that cost all up $8,500 :) Ive got 183.5rwkw on the na brakes lol!

Ive just thought of leting all the ppl out there that are thinking about this please do not choose this path it is one of the worst money loses I have ever done!

I know this may not be much to most ppl lol :D but Ive spent about 20,000 on this car to what it is now and it's still nothing like a gtst! this price isnt including the car when I bought it is was $17,000 dead stock 3 and a half years ago! :D It just go's to show how much imports have come down!

It's just this mechanic he got me hooked in! he also knew I had money which didnt help! It's just a warning plus the rb20 gearbox's thats in them can handle the power! Sorry to bother u guys but just wanted to let everyone know my tradik sob story!

Sorry to hear mate, really sucks, 183kw though, what boost? what turbo/ecu? all stock?

But the price is sort of your own fault, you can do things cheaper, i.e. not buy any kit (just collect the parts) and fit it all yourself.

The total cost for my turbo conversion was $1860

Turbo (KKR430, never used but second had) $500

Braided oil feed line plus fittings $100

Oil drain metal thnig and hose $free, made myself and had random 90 degree angle hose

Turbo manifold, ebay stainless low mount $200inc post, drilled out the bolt holes as they didnt line up, schmick now sounds good beats stock manifold.

Dump pipe custom price for metal and 2x bends (in mild steel) $100 (welded myself)

Injectors $150 (std VLT Spec)

remapped ecu $90

Front mount cooler (single sided) $200

pipwork, bends, silicone joiners $200

fuel pump $120 (second hand 044 inline)

Exedy HD clutch (RB25DET) $200 second hand (heaps of meat)

add the cost of my f**kup, $50 engine block, $64 ACL monotorque head gasket, $7 water pump gasket, $16 exhaust manifold gasket 2 types of $10 gasket goo (sump and intake/exhaust manifolds) total = $157

So my total is $2017 + service and yeah, i love it, i collected all the bits of the course of a few months, so $100 here and there, didnt really notice a hole in my pocket. Bit of work, would be a good learning curve for somone who hasnt dont it all before, but certainly not hard at all, for $2k yeah its definately worth it, heaps more fun.

that said i could have done it for less than half that (and have before on GF's car, all stock bits come in under a grand with stock cooler/piping, std manifold turbo and lines) there is no brake upgrade, no suspension etc, but just because its got twice the power doesnt mean ill drive twice the speed so i dont need to stop twice as fast... stock breaks pull it up as quick as any breaks could anyway (wheels/tyres are the problem) and its not a car for doing laps in, it gets a squirt on take offs/straights and thats about it. If i come accross some decent brakes i might get them, but there is absolutely no need at the moment, as i like my licence. Suspension, yeah i might pickup some second had kings or somthing but i like it high and soft as it goes off road occaisionally and its my comfy daily.

Edited by SKiT_R31

i dropped an rb25det into my gts and havnt had any problems bar the alternator really, however i had the turbo gear box put in and i'll be doing the brake upgrade and 5 stud hub swap soon, it did't cost me 8.5k man, that is alot of money just for an engine swap..who did it?

  • Like 1

sorry dude cant give names :D but another thing that happen I had to fork out for the turbo coz the one he got was stuffed which I paid for! so he ripped me off there! it was like paying 8,500 for a car that I couldnt drive!

Yeah Skit_R31 It's got the standard turbo and ecu it made it running 11 pound!

but yeah im happy all you blokes got it cheap heaps cheaper plus I bet all your heater hoses were in right! he put mine in all kinked! also the price of motors have came down alot since 3 years ago! back then they wanted 3,900 for the motor now there cheap as! :D

I would love to give a name but I dont think im aloud to I would just like to warn people about this guy thats all! he learns from your expense! lol the thermostat cost me $170 lol then does the timing wrong coz I could only run 4 pound and each time I would turn it up it just jolted and carried on so I took it to a place in sydney and he just chucked it on the dyno and just changed the timing only took him 30mins to get it goin right! this bloked thought it was one problem he then bought a part to fix it and just kept goin so it go's to show how much this guys know's bout imports! He does alot of work for other blokes imports! but I guess he only just changes their oil etc! like when I went to sell it the bloke that wanted to buy it took it 2 him to have a check up and he told him all the stuff that was wrong with it that he caused! ;) oh well u learn from your mistakes

i did the turbo conversion as well de+t on my r33.. and it cost me around 1-1.2k with all stock parts and a front mount cooler.. and another $1k for labour..

jst a tip for anyone going the de+t option.. make sure you check if all the oil and water lines are on the block.. mine werent.. had to t-piece the oil line frm the oil pressure sender

its much easier when u get all the sock parts frm the forums.. and gradually gather everything... oh and another thing make sure the stock injectors work... mine caused the engine to hydrolicoly lock... more stuffing around...

peace

yeah personally I dont trust mechanic's either! I just when you give them oil to put in such as motul etc for 100 bucks a bottle how do you know for sure he put it in not some cheap stuff he has? oh well I spose it may not be some of them but it's just easier to just change it yourself then you know for certain whats goin in!

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