Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeh thats a very strange dump indeed.. do you know the reason of the flat bit along where the front pipe usually is.. im guessing maybe so you dont bottom out over bumps and down curbs?? i bottomed out my 3incher that way =D

how many inches does the dump/front pipe work out to be through the round bits? and is there any other reasons for the strange shape

yeh thats a very strange dump indeed.. do you know the reason of the flat bit along where the front pipe usually is.. im guessing maybe so you dont bottom out over bumps and down curbs?? i bottomed out my 3incher that way =D

how many inches does the dump/front pipe work out to be through the round bits? and is there any other reasons for the strange shape

It is a 3" dump through the round bits. From what I have read it is flat and will allow more gas to pass throgh but I am not 100% sure. I currently have a full system on but wanted to change and this is something unique and the manufacturer claims a very unique sounding note but whether that is fact I will have to wait and see.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's a huge reason manufacturers are tuning in dead flat torque curves... Make them reliable (and more drive able)
    • What HVAC actuator is under the steering wheel? Do you mean on the RHS of the centre console, immediately to the left of your shin? If so, then yes, it is probably that one, because that is the mode door actuator, and from what I know, it's still a pain in the arse to replace. I don't know about whole dash out, but you certainly have to rip into the centre console section. I don't know if it's covered in the workshop manual, as I haven't spent much time looking at those parts of it. (and by "the workshop manual, I mean the R32 GTR one, which is the most comprehensive one we have, and it should be similar enough between that and later cars to serve as a guide).
    • ...oops. forgot the TCU end...
    • No I got mine from a friend that had fabricated one … but I had to fit it to my setup which was a hks turbo setup. His was a Garrett -7. So one of my turbos was not a flange for one side … then I had a leak in the welds I had to find a weld shut … in the end the setup was decent priced but I spent a lot to get it fitted. A couple companies I checked would make it but you’re talking 7-9k aud with titanium. No joke mine was 6-7k even second hand after I had to fit it in Hong Kong … labour is expensive here. 
    • I'd just like to restate that I don't think anyone here is actually hating I recently sold a car part to a guy who was building a forged auto R34, with MV stall and aiming at ~450kw. I told him that I'm him, from the future and to stop after it explodes once. I told him I knew he won't listen the first time, and that's fine. But if my predictions do come true - Change direction faster than I did. I also said it's probably no coincidence that the dyno plot of a reliable turbo engine starts to look a lot like a N/A motor. :p
×
×
  • Create New...