Jump to content
SAU Community

Service Question- Tranny Fluid


Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Well its nearly time to do the 1st service on the stag since I've owned it...

Im planning on doing the following:

  • Oil And oil Filter
  • Brake Fluid
  • Front and Rear Diff Oil
  • Tranny oil

Ive allready done the coolant when i did the timing belt so thats ok....

The question I have is about draining the tranny fluid.. Ive read many different ways to do it, eg the plug or out the cooler lines....

Which method do you guys use and recomend to get the most out of the system that i can?

Have I missed anythign that I should be doing?

Cheers,

Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi All,

Well its nearly time to do the 1st service on the stag since I've owned it...

Im planning on doing the following:

  • Oil And oil Filter
  • Brake Fluid
  • Front and Rear Diff Oil
  • Tranny oil

Ive allready done the coolant when i did the timing belt so thats ok....

The question I have is about draining the tranny fluid.. Ive read many different ways to do it, eg the plug or out the cooler lines....

Which method do you guys use and recomend to get the most out of the system that i can?

Have I missed anythign that I should be doing?

Cheers,

Chris

There should be a drain plug on the bottom of the gearbox. I'd be draining it from there. or faster draining, remove the dipstick at the same time. :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There should be a drain plug on the bottom of the gearbox. I'd be draining it from there. or faster draining, remove the dipstick at the same time. :P

Ive herd that this will not get all of it out though....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

few ways to do it, best is go to tranny shop, special machines that replenish the fluid.

Fill and drain it a few times.

or drain it, refill, disconnect cooler hose, sucking end in fresh fluid, other in drain, run it until out fluid is fresh

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the fluid isn't pressurised as it is fed into the trans, you will never get it all out due to the sheer volume that the torque converter contains (that will not come uout under gravity). Either get it flushed at a trans specialist, or drain and refill it about 4 times in a week. Its about the only way I know of to get it all out, and it would be a LOT more stuffing around,and probably more expensive, than getting a specialist to do it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

/\ 2nd that

On a side note, you mentioned changing the brake fluid? What is your procedure for bleeding the stagea's abs system? the compliance shop mechanic told me they had to be vacuum bled. Is there a way it can be done at home?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi All,

Well its nearly time to do the 1st service on the stag since I've owned it...

Im planning on doing the following:

  • Oil And oil Filter
  • Brake Fluid
  • Front and Rear Diff Oil
  • Tranny oil

Ive allready done the coolant when i did the timing belt so thats ok....

The question I have is about draining the tranny fluid.. Ive read many different ways to do it, eg the plug or out the cooler lines....

Which method do you guys use and recomend to get the most out of the system that i can?

Have I missed anythign that I should be doing?

Cheers,

Chris

I have just done the auto fliud - what a mission!

Drain the pan but note that the plug is not at the lowest point so when you drop the pan it will still contain fluid (yep it went everywhere). You need to drop the rear gearbox mount to get the pan off so you need plenty of stands/jacks. I replaced the filter but the one supplied was not quite right - had to cut off some of the square pickup pipe. You could probably just wash the old one. The pan was full of gunk so I am glad that i took it off. I put the pan back on (after I worked out that the new filter was stopping it from going on) and then pulled off the supply hose to the oil cooler and stuck it in a plastic 2L bottle and ran the engine til it filled. then I poured 2L of new fluid down the dipstick tube and repeated until the fluid ran clean. I used about 15L in this process ( I got a 20L Fuchs Titan 4000 semi synthetic cheap $60).

My last Stagea I took to an auto service place that did a flush for $300 and they didn't even take the pan off so by doing it myself I am satisfied that I got it as clean as possible even though it was a major hassle. Even if you have to pay more for the ATF it is good for your peace of mind to do it yourself. You will probably only ever have to do it once!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks for the writeup KiwiRS4T :P My RS4 is with MV Automatics in Adelaide today getting just that done (and a valve body upgrade :huh:) which is a fairly reputable place here in Adelaide so I hope they at least drop the pan (well it's getting a service and they said they're fitting a new filter so I assume they'd have to drop the pan)

I asked about flush/fill and they said they only refill the pan (:D !) and only flush the rest of the system 'if the oil looks like it needs replacing'. Hmmmmkay.... for $300 for a service, like you say, it better be a good job (although for a complete refil I would expect at least $100 of that to be gearbox oil cost alone).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

KiwiRS4,

IF i drop the pan do i need and gaskets or anything or it simply open her up and bolt it back together once im done?

I bought a kit with a gasket and a filter but when I dropped the pan the gasket was stuck to the pan so it could probably have been reused - you could always put a bit of gasket sealer on to make sure I guess. (Make sure you have a plan b - someone else with a car to go buy a gasket in case you destroy yours getting it off but mine came off in one piece OK). Good luck!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

Can anybody quote the tranny filter kit number for a Stagea S2? I think I have found a kit locally but would pay if I can find another S2 owner that can quote numbers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Interesting that it has 2 to the USB stick. Are the ones to the USB stick different? Or labelled anything at all? Telstra 4G is Band 28 is the long range one you want, it's 700mHz. I'm trying to do some reading on the Cel-Fi stuff, but I can't find any decent info online that makes me feel comfortable being able to work out the sort of antennas we could get away to swapping it over to. The antennas I'm starting to do some stuff with at work, are a transparent antenna. They're designed to stick onto the window. Which means you wouldn't even have the antenna outside the car. Volkswagen have just started using the exact same types of antennas on some of their new cars (And from the same antenna manufacturer). But, RF stuff is a bit of a dark art some days, and getting it wrong in your car could make for a terrible waste of money trying to swap antennas :S
    • I'm not going to lie Duncan, Saturday and Sunday were pretty rough days. The sort of work I was doing would previously have ended up with me spending about an hour and a half chatting with Neil. Firstly about something I had a question about, and then both of us rambling off on tangents.  I think how Neil did things, and his attitude to getting it done is helping me in part to get this stuff done. Then I can actually do the things I enjoy more easily  
    • Talked to another R34 GT-T owner, he said bonnet of his car once fell and slammed from full height because of strong wind at a car show and nothing was damaged or broken, so I guess I'm just overthinking some things but yeah, just making sure I'm not damaging the car anyhow cause wanna keep it for a long time.
    • I would say 100% that it doesn't matter at all. I have an Al bonnet and I drop it sometimes, push it others. Have done so for 25 years and there's no way to tell that either has caused any problems (because there are no problems).
    • yeah, a black 4 door HR, stock AT RB20DE. Was a pretty good daily summer car, it was kept in a garage during winter but previous owner was fighting rust so most of the car was covered with rust undercoating, the trunk, floorpan, it started to rust underneath so I thought it would be better to find other chassis that was taken care better and do rust preventions myself, at least I would know where keep my attention at. Plans are simple, enjoy the car as much as I can, mostly on summer of course, winter here is long and not kind to 90s JDM, I wanna keep it mostly stock like, I'm not a huge fan of GT-R look or any body kits so gonna keep it as metal as possible haha, something more balanced look wise and yeah, work on performance, I was thinking about RB25DET but 20DET actually feels fun, as long as it's reliable I think I might keep it. 
×
×
  • Create New...