Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I know there will be plenty of "why would you" comments - but I would be interested to know if anyone hase used air cooled low mounts on a RB26... and with what results ( performance, longevity.... :P )

Again - please dont ask me why.... I am really intested in others experience with such an arrangement.

Cheers...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225696-air-cooled-turbos-on-a-gtr/
Share on other sites

I hate those stupid bloody water lines on the GTR... would be a pleasure to only have to worry about hooking up oil lines (hate them as well though)... can't wait until foil bearings are used for turbochargers.

I have run water cooled turbos without water before without any problems - I do remember hearing somewhere that timing your car down is more important with oil only turbos for heat transfer reasons.

the issues with that is that in water / oil turbos, the oil cooling jackets are a LOT smaller, and mainly for lubrication compared to straight oil cooling, and yes with just oil u need to time the car or else the hot oil accumulated in the turbo seals sits there and cakes

yep - what he said :D

sorry - oil cooled... Nismoid - I have a pair.... look pretty much like GTR turbos (the housings are GTR) but with a oil cooled CHRA. It has fins cast in where you would normally see a fitting for a water line....

Anyway - will try to get a pic.

My reason for asking is I have a GTR that has just poped one of its ceramics... and I have these lying around and thought I might give them a go? My hesistation lies in "all that heat down there" and "nissan use water cooled turbos for a reason..."

Its not referred to as air cooled, its oil cooled, and generally speaking its not the end of the world is you dont hook coolant lines up to you garrett turbo. Lots of TRUST turbos are not water cooled.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Strength. And on the early RB26, full engagement of the pump drive.
    • I really don't understand the point of aftermarket oil pumps if your particular engine doesn't need more oil pressure. As far as I can make sense of it the problem seems to be cavitation from sucking air, maybe the pump gear design with how it interfaces with the OEM crank, and maybe the backing plate screws wanting to loosen themselves. How does flowing more oil fix these issues?
    • More photos are up, and the price has been dropped to $16,000. It's just had a service and a new 12V battery, too.
    • I agree on doing some better than factory pistons, rods, and oil pump. For anyone using the vehicle on the road, I don't get why everyone wants big cams. The stock cam profile, with some more lift would be mint for road usage. Everyone going big cams and then wondering why it isn't as responsive in traffic, when they've shifted the torque curve upwards an additional 1000RPM. Make torque, at lower RPM. Sure it's not as cool as claiming "500KW" and revving it to 8,0000RPM, but that same torque 2,000RPM earlier... Then you don't need the extremely high end pistons and rods, and blah blah blah.
    • Personal experience. Those f**kers burn. And are actually a PITA to put out. Next time I walk down the back, I'll snap a photo of what the inside of the bonnet looks like when that thing ignites. PS, powder fire extinguishers are useless on that stuff too as it's fibrous and when it ignites, it starts to pull apart. And you end up just blowing powder through a sieve effectively.   Like the big thing is, if it's fire resistant, it's job is to stop what burning? The METAL above it? It's just to try keep heat off the bonnet paint work.
×
×
  • Create New...