Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'll try to keep this as short as possible ...

I have an R34 GTT with a turbo back exhaust. At some point (after getting an aftermarket turbo-back exhaust from JustJap) I took it to a place for a dyno. On the dyno run the 'actuator flap' got stuck open (according to the mechanic) which meant it couldn't make boost past 5psi or so so he 'fixed it' (what he did, i was never told).

Anyway, I recently had the car tuned and ECU remapped by Toshi and it made a significant increase in performance.

However, for the past few weeks, ever since that dyno, the car's been making a rattling noise as I took the foot the off the accelerator. A few people thought it's the cat and they recommended I get rid off the xforce cat.

So I went to justjap today (where I bought my exhaust from) to get the cat replaced with a Catco one and hopefully fix the annoying rattle. They changed the cat and still same rattle.

So the mechanic then took down the dump/front pipe and all the brackets and tried a few things ... 2 hours later, everything's back on. Fingers crossed. Nope, still rattling.

Now at this point I'm thinking, f**k he's probably gonna just say "sorry mate, don't know what it is". Nope, he opens the wastegate cover again and starts looking around and notices the actuator isn't sitting correctly and thinks could be the reason for the rattle.

So he pushes the actuator back a little bit and BINGO. Rattle is gone.

I ask him why he reckons the actuator wasn't sitting correctly - he goes, looks like there's a mark there ..like someone pushed it the wrong way. Immediately I remember the original dyno where the actuator flap got open and got 'fixed' by that shop's mechanic.

So I'm happy. The rattle is gone. The mechanic reckons it should actually make boost a bit sooner now.

A BIT SOONER? It feels like a DIFFERENT CAR. It runs SOOOO much better it's not believable. The boost is coming on crazy quickly and the car feels about 3 more responsive in low to mid range (haven't had a chance to flog it yet). First, 2nd and 3rd gear are unbelievable. Response is so much better and the car feels twice as fast as before. I can hear the turbo spool up all the time, unlike before. To put into context, it feels 3x better than it did prior to and after the ecu remap (which was quite a significant increase in power/response too).

All this only after initially going after a stupid rattle. Turned out the rattle was just a symtop of a far more serious problem.

I still cannot believe how good the car feels - seriously, it's like a brand new car completely. Well, to be fair I did get a new cat (although it's highflow jut like the previous one) and a new airfilter, but I'm sure it's mostly the actuator issue that explains the change in response/boost/power.

So big thanks to the boys at JustJap (Kirrawee) for taking the time to find and fix an issue created by another incompetent shop. Most guys would have given up after 2 hours of trying to fix what was no more than an annoying rattle. They went all the way and it paid off bigtime.

CHEERSSSSS!

Edit: now I just gotta pray this fix doesn't affect my ecu remap which was done using a road tune while I still had that 'rattle' ie. the car wasn't really making boost early enough or as much.

Edited by Delta Force

If you gate flap was loose when tuning, you will indeed need to go back for a retune.

You would have been making some boost, but not in the right places due to the gate flap being open earlier than it should.

its a standard ecu... it won't damage his engine just cause him to lose power because it will go to a low octane map due to pinging.

If its going hard at balls just take it to a dyno shop for a dyno run to test the AFR's $110 and if the afrs are ok then your right :P

If you gate flap was loose when tuning, you will indeed need to go back for a retune.

You would have been making some boost, but not in the right places due to the gate flap being open earlier than it should.

I had my AFRs tuned by Toshi and I did do a dyno after the remap (while the actuator was still farked) ..according to the dyno graph I was making boost just fine but it feels so much better now.. here's the graph http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&id=165600

I'm gonna go to Toshi's see if he can have a listen to the engine for pinging while we drive... hopefully this wont screw up the remap

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Right, here's a video of the basic operation at least.  This is what you can expect day to day when you turn the car on and it boots from standby.  The only thing from a media point of view I haven't gotten working is for it to autoplay plexamp when it turns on from standby (it works from cold boot) but that's more of a plexamp problem as it will autoplay other music players.  Also attached is my one stray cable.  It's part of the screen's wiring adapters but there's just nowhere for it to go in my car.  I've just now done a bit of research and found a matching port on a 2010-2014 head unit with BOSE.  Mine has no BOSE so that's that case pretty much closed I think.  Plugging in the Infiniti AC panel basically did nothing for me, so that's a dead end as well.  Next port of call is to mess with this CANBUS module and see what I can find from it.  I found this resource containing the DBC files for a 2010+ G37 : https://github.com/icecube45/Dash_InfinitiG37/blob/master/InfinitiG37.dbc I'll now have something to go from when I try to extract my CANBUS data so I can see if the HVAC Mode, Fan Speed, Temperature, etc. match and also the gear shifter position.  It's a pretty big assumption that it's just mismatched CAN signals but considering all the devices in the CAN network are talking to each other (AC can be fully adjusted just with no info on screen) it might be a safe one.  I will report back WhatsApp Video 2025-02-26 at 12.49.10.mp4
    • Thanks for that Paul.  Do you think if I posted a picture you'd be able to remember where it went? 
    • Sorry Duncan, I didn't get a notification for the replies.  Thanks for responding!  It's a full Android device, but does allow you to use CarPlay/AA as well.  This is the one I bought from NaviRS on AliExpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006368602668.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.111.59aa1802JDzQ0E - the 2K 8G-256G CAM variant but it seems to have gone up by £170 since I bought it!  My purchase was £307.14.   It's not the fastest thing in the world but performs perfectly adequately.  It stays on standby unless I disconnect the battery and let it power down, then it's just a fairly standard Android bootup time from cold.  The DSP Equaliser is very nice and made the standard stereo system sound pretty decent compared to the stock screen.  Perhaps I can take a video of it when I get a sec. It *allegedly* supports the reverse camera, but I'm yet to get that working.  It has options for reverse cam (a camera unit can be bought separately) or 360 cameras (also bought separately).  To be fair it doesn't seem to detect that the shifter was put into reverse but I'm working on a theory about this as well.  At the moment I'm going without which is a bit annoying considering the car is an absolute canal barge but so far I haven't caused any damage I'll grab a picture of the wire I'm missing later today when I can get outside.  My theory, by the by, is that not only is the head unit different, but the CANBUS network has different signals for the different years.  I think this because I have a spare AC panel from a newer Infiniti G37 (as opposed to my Nissan panel) which wouldn't control anything except the volume when I had it wired up with the stock system.  I'm going to throw it back in and see if the screen will respond to it.  I've just ordered an arduino CANBUS module so I can have a look at the signals going around the car and see if I can spot anything.  I'm thinking if I can work out what it's expecting vs what it's getting I might be able to translate and relay the signal back but so far just a theory anyway. I also found this on my travels, so far the only one that specifically matches my car: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002822934280.html?spm=a2g0s.imconversation.0.0.33433e5fgttovi If you look at the picture of the before, it has the card reader slot, and the picture of the head unit is exactly the same as the one pictured in my original post.  I asked if they sell the cables separately but sadly they won't.  I didn't want to just buy this one because it's a super old Android version and only dual core - likely slow as hell. 
    • As above, you did refill the coolant and burp the system before running it again didn't you?
    • To be fair - you see the same thing for every clutch. There's always someone making an installation error.
×
×
  • Create New...