Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

correct. I should really write a FAQ for all this stuff..

Chris, the 3pt immobiliser you put in during compliance in mine, does that removes the factory immobilisers? As I don't have that metal tag as well with the car.

If that so, then those who don't have that metal tag and need a new remote key can have a locally installed alarm/immobiliser done here to remove the factory one?

no.

the immobiliser is part if the car and integrated into the ECU. the reason your was done was to satisify ADR 82/00. the original unit in the car does not conform to this.

in short if the code is not in the original books with the car or you do not have the key tag then you are in for a bit of fun when it comes time to key a new key. nissan MAY be able to look it up for you but I would be doubtful on this.

hey guys,

found an xtaril key on ebay for 22.95

provided we have the imobiliser code, it should be possible to buy this key

take it to nissan to program it and cut it?

cheers,

Danny

btw does the v35 Coupe use the standard NATS as used b ythe 350z, maxima etc etc

Hi Danny,

when i spoke with Nissan Randwick today i asked about the Murano or X-trail key and they said it was different to the v35 one in some way?

i got quoted $397 for the new remote key and for the valet key $135. Nissan said they could hook the car up to CONSULT and program the key to the car.

Chris,

I asked if the key had to come from Japan and the guy said that nissan australia had them in stock....would nissan stock the ones specifically for the v35 or do you think they are just the Murano and X-trail ones??

nope they would be a common part amongst them from my thinking.

best to try first. I would still have the keycode handy though.

yes I dare say nissan can key it in but they would alos assume you have the keycode as well.

put it this way the tool I use asked for a code when I went into the NATS side of it.

nope they would be a common part amongst them from my thinking.

best to try first. I would still have the keycode handy though.

yes I dare say nissan can key it in but they would alos assume you have the keycode as well.

put it this way the tool I use asked for a code when I went into the NATS side of it.

Is the tool you are using Cosult II or can it be done with some other tools?

Thanks,

Tom

not at all. the one I use is the earlier one. $7.6k aud ex japan. (and it's NOT mine.) it does auto detect so it will drive the early RS232 based nissan , early v35 (j2534) and the true CAN based cars.

that one would be on my wish list if I knew it would drive these cars. shenzen is where most of them are made anyway.

that is taken fromt eh USDM manual -correct?

give it w whirl.I'd be interested in teh results. programming the keyless side of things wasn't the issue for me. the immobiliser was. launch would do that easily. its when the immobiliser side cam into play I ran into strife and needed the key codes.

USDM uses a separate fob similar to a early xtrail (05 base spec) with teh calsonic remote.

  • 3 weeks later...

G'day all, It was I who asked N15MO & Chris about intelligent key units for series 2 V35 and I am still trying to find some. Even if they can only be programmed to lock & unlock and not activate the fuel cut off. As well as that I only got 1 key. I ordered a new one from the local Nissan dealer- cost was $171 for the blank. He was using a V35 parts list and gave me a couple of pages from it. After paying $50 to have the blank cut I found it didn't fit in the sleeve on the ignition. The top was too thick. The dealer suggested they had several ways of programming it but we obviously didn't try. Anyway I got a full refund of the $171.

Any further info on new key or intelligent key units would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

  • 1 month later...

OK, I feel sorry for all you guys. Am I the only one In Australia who knows how to fix this problem?

Here's the deal. Now listen carefully kids cause I've had this done so I now have 2 keys where I had only 1.

Nissan AUS is gonna rape you with a $500 price Tag for each key. They have to bring them in from Japan, it's the only way.

People talking about removing the comp, it's garbage. You can remove the engine comp, the ignition barrel and the security sytem and it won't do squat. There is another comp in the car that changes the key codes every time you start the car.

Now, if you are unlucky like me and didn't get the code, I got in contact with Nissan Japan and they told me how to get it.

I have added an attachement with instructions from Nissan Japan on how to get the BCM code. Then email that code to Nissan Japan and they will give you the PIN. Don't bother talking to Nissan Australia about this cause they won't help you and won't talk to Nissan Japan. I know, I tried.

Once you have the code, any local Nissan dealer with the CONSULT system will be able to duplicate the key. You will need to bring the originals as well cause they all have to be redone.

Sorry about the stabs, but evryone here was making wild guesses rather then trying to solve old mates problem. I couldn't take it anymore.

BCM_Nissan_Skyline.pdf

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
    • Hi All, putting the engine back together and everything is perfect except have this plug left over.. any ideas what it is for and where it goes? Is on cold side under the intake plenum *note not a stock plug, as everything has been modified Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...