Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is this similar to BAR? All my other boost gauges in cars have been bar, kg and psi?

The standard goes to 7 x 100mm Hg. How much is that in PSI?

Because I just got mine back from the workshop and its only running 3.5 and doesnt feel like its pulling hard at all. :D

Cheers :)

Ah okay sweet.

I've got a boost controller im going to throw on today.

I've been told to go no higher than 11psi on the stock tubro, can anyone confirm this?

mm hg

milimeters of mercury it stands for and im pretty sure 7 mmhg is 1 bar and one bar is 14.7 psi

What sort of car are u putting the boost controller on. Does this car have an aftermarket ecu because if it doesnt i wouldnt run anymore than about 9 psi and even running more than standard boost ur car may lean out under hard boosting. Simply because your standard ecu doesnt have the mapping to map the right amount of fuel in when it comes onto boostif u wind it up. If u have an aftermarket ecu then theres no problem with running 12-15psi as long as you dont hold it on boost for like ages. I ran my vl on 15psi for years without any dramas and that had an rb25 with standard turbo and aftermarket ecu and i used to drive that thing hard

Yeah I've had cars with aftermarket ECU's before running high boost, and I get all the leaning business.

Surely you'd have to be able to run atleast 10psi without it being too detrimental?

I can't imagine every boosted skyline out there running aftermarket managment..

mm hg

milimeters of mercury it stands for and im pretty sure 7 mmhg is 1 bar and one bar is 14.7 psi

Go back to 1st year highschool science (it could even be late primary school, so long since I did it) and review air pressure. It's 760 mmHg = 1 atmosphere (1 bar, 14.7 psi, 32 ft water).

The gauge says x100 mm Hg - therefore, any reading on the gauge has to be multiplied by 100. I doubt you could ever produce 700 bar boost pressure!

  • 4 months later...

sorry to bump up an old thread but atleast im using the search function.

Where on my standard r33 series 2 boost meter is 10-12psi of boost pressure???? i understand that the +7 = 14.7psi

ive done some simple maths and assuming my standard boost guage is correct 12psi should equal to something about 550-600mm/HG

and 10psi should be about 450-500mm/HG???

can anyone confirm this????

or correct me

and yes i will get a boost guage put on but not for a little while....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
    • Yes. Imagine you have the car on the ground, and you mine away all the ground under and around it, except for the area directly under each individual wheel. That's exactly how it'd look, except the ground will be what ever you make the bit under each wheel from
    • Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!
×
×
  • Create New...