Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok this has happened to me twice now.

first time was at the bunnings carpark. cruising at like 20, about to turn into a parking spot, then all of the sudden i loose all power. steering locks up, eninge dies, electrics all flick down to accessories mode. i start it up again and proceed into my spot...

second time, approaching a roundabout, coming down from 2nd to 1st, i loose all power again. start it up again and lurch through the roundabout embarased (as you would be) interesting thing is this time i starteed, one of my belts proceeds to scream at me. this usually occurs when its been extremely cold (frost etc) not sure which belt it is, but its damn annoying, did it to me just before outside work.

mind you both these times i had the clutch fully engaged, so its not like i noobly stalled it.

now.

this is really lame. and it wouldnt help that as im writing this i had a shit day at work. but point is. im really getting frustrated of both these problems

any ideas as to what either of these problems might be?

cheers...

Edited by G0DZLR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225893-power-loss/
Share on other sites

hi i too have had this same problem ony difference is my cars an auto.. just cruising along at around 20km and then car just shuts off.. done it to me one day at a round about then 5 days later it did it 5 times.. touch wood it hasnt done it since but ive asked mechanics and they have no idea what it could be. i had my computer scanned but they found no error codes in it...

would also like some help on this incase it does it again.

jake

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225893-power-loss/#findComment-3978093
Share on other sites

ok this has happened to me twice now.

first time was at the bunnings carpark. cruising at like 20, about to turn into a parking spot, then all of the sudden i loose all power. steering locks up, eninge dies, electrics all flick down to accessories mode. i start it up again and proceed into my spot...

second time, approaching a roundabout, coming down from 2nd to 1st, i loose all power again. start it up again and lurch through the roundabout embarased (as you would be) interesting thing is this time i starteed, one of my belts proceeds to scream at me. this usually occurs when its been extremely cold (frost etc) not sure which belt it is, but its damn annoying, did it to me just before outside work.

mind you both these times i had the clutch fully engaged, so its not like i noobly stalled it.

now.

this is really lame. and it wouldnt help that as im writing this i had a shit day at work. but point is. im really getting frustrated of both these problems

any ideas as to what either of these problems might be?

cheers...

In regards to the screeching belt. I have a strong feeling it is your alternator belt, I had the same problem, it is due to the excessive drain on the battery on cold days, therefore making the alternator harder to spin. Check you tentioners or even replace the belt if it looks worn.

In regards to the car stalling (I'm assuming you are applying the brakes when the stalling occurs) - check your brake booster vacum hose (and all other vacum hoses to be on the safe side), there could be a vacum leak or even the brake booster itself. (I had a similar issue in my old Bluebird, however the brake booster diaphram was busted).

just remembered - Also check you AFM (seems to be the problem in quite a few scenarios in previous posts)

Hope this helps.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225893-power-loss/#findComment-3978210
Share on other sites

check your battery etc connections too... i had a similar prob last week over going over the mother of all bumps. thanks dept of main roads...

(also killed a head light bulb)

i forgot to mention, the time i was at bunnings, id just gone over a couple of BRUTAL speed bumps, so maybe thats it. but i think its either that or the AFM, or alternator. either way i think i should get the belts replaced...my cars done 88,000ks, i know that belts get replaced at the 100,000k service, would it be worth getting them done at 90 instead?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225893-power-loss/#findComment-3978595
Share on other sites

Yeh I had these problems before when I just bought my car. Scared the sh*t out of me because I thought I bought a dud car. Plus it was my first time taking the car out by myself, so when I asked my mates, they thought that I just didn't press the clutch, which obviously I did.

Anyways, it turned out to be the AAC valve. Takes a few hours and straight away the car was running smoother at idle and never stalled again.

On a side note, the link for the AAC valve cleaning should be stickied or something because a lot of people seem to have this issue and not know how to fix it.

Anyways, enjoy.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Di...mp;hl=aac+valve

Edited by mjscar
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225893-power-loss/#findComment-3978649
Share on other sites

Yeh I had these problems before when I just bought my car. Scared the sh*t out of me because I thought I bought a dud car. Plus it was my first time taking the car out by myself, so when I asked my mates, they thought that I just didn't press the clutch, which obviously I did.

Anyways, it turned out to be the AAC valve. Takes a few hours and straight away the car was running smoother at idle and never stalled again.

On a side note, the link for the AAC valve cleaning should be stickied or something because a lot of people seem to have this issue and not know how to fix it.

Anyways, enjoy.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Di...mp;hl=aac+valve

thanks for that mate! i may try this as one possibility, couldn't hurt to do it anyway seeing as my car is 14yrs old after all..pitty most of the pics dont work..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225893-power-loss/#findComment-3979175
Share on other sites

i forgot to mention, the time i was at bunnings, id just gone over a couple of BRUTAL speed bumps, so maybe thats it. but i think its either that or the AFM, or alternator. either way i think i should get the belts replaced...my cars done 88,000ks, i know that belts get replaced at the 100,000k service, would it be worth getting them done at 90 instead?

It doesn't hurt to change the belts a little earlier :D - You get a little peice of mind and the screeching is likely to go away too.

Sometimes it is not the number of Ks the car has done, but the age - as all rubber degrades over time.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225893-power-loss/#findComment-3980365
Share on other sites

do you remember which fuse it was that blew?

It was a RED one in the little kick pannel near the steering collum.

It was a fuse for;

Alturnator

revers lights

something

something

something

It ran a bucket load of things.. but have a look, may be worth it.. the huge speed pump may have loosened one of the fuses to which the cor does not agree with..

Edited by GTS4WD
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225893-power-loss/#findComment-3981479
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Standard GTRs are boring and there plenty of them, do what ever you want to it and just remember nothing about them is cheap anymore and if you’re picky about how you want things done it gets even worse.    if it’s an n1 or something very limited then maybe care more about it’s heritage 
    • Alright guys, I've got good odds the motor survives due to a majority of spare parts. Who's taking bets on clutch, who's on transmission, and who's go diff? Happy to also take bets on if it still overheats in traffic or not 😛     Car looks amazing by the way. I've never been a fan of R34 rears, so really, I don't think any body kit etc solves that for myself, but the front end looks amazing!
    • As an ex-skyline owner Going off how these things are now "modern classics", I would keep the twins and just "refresh" bits that are required for reliable power and have a car you can take out for a cruise whenever you get the itch As a idiot who cannot leave things alone Going deep into the "rabbit hole" is a easy thing to do, as previously mentioned, once you start it becomes a slippery slope, wirh lots of supporting mods, and possibly rebuilds, and unless you have a bottomless pit of funds, the car can spend most of its life sitting in the garage,  broken, waiting for parts, or building more funds For a classic like a R32 GTR Basically, a reliable OEM+ refresh, that isn't a broken garage queen, is alot better than a car that you build, then break, then fix, then break again And it isn't just the engine you need to worry about, these beasties are getting on in age, and all parts are getting, and have got, expensive, the days of picking up cheap replacement engines and other driveline parts are well and truly over The funds not spent on going a single with quality parts, and with all the other other bits required to make it happen, could be spent on refreshing alot of other parts A wise man once said "If you cannot afford 2 GTR's, you cannot afford 1", I also believe he said this about 20 years ago when you could pick up a clean R32 GTR up for around $20k My advice for a R32 GTR (the one and only true Godzilla in my mind) is to think holistically about the whole car, the body, the power train, the suspension, the brakes, and the driveline SAU is a wealth of knowledge with decades of Skyline experience,  from stock, to OEM+, to modified to varying degrees, to full on or weekend or dedicated racecars, as well as full on money pits that rarely leave their garage Treat the old girl nice and give her what she deserves, you are a lucky man to own such a classic car  
    • For that price you could buy the hypergear turbo (big fan as I run one) and the Haltech ECU..
    • +1 for the Elite 2500. Get some new knock sensors while you are at it (pretty cheap), look up the TAARKS Nissan knock sensor kit. You may also want to get new coils (R35gtr) while your at it (assuming your on stock ones), as they are a liability. Mine started right up and idled fine on the base map. Also go MAP over MAF, as said above, Haltech make this super simple right out the box. Another fanboy of DBW here, Outsider Garage from your neck of the woods make some nice conversion gear for the R33 (that’s where I got some of my gear from).
×
×
  • Create New...