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Engine Out

GTRsean

By GTRsean,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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GTRsean Grand Master

GTRsean

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Hey guys.

After 4 years of driving as a daily it's finally time to pull the rb out and see how it's going.

The timing belt tension was not right when it was replaced a while back and it seems to have worn the crank gear and thrown out cam timing.

Even after the belt was retensioned it skipped again and ended up 3 teeth out on both cams when crank was at TDC.

It felt like a really laggy car when this happened and slow. Top end rpm and peak power wasn't affected, but I had barely any vacuum on the gauge at idle due to the slipped belt.

To add to that, the harmonic balancer has seized on the crank due to the bolt being loose. The key and keyways are still lined up though.

Will pull it off when I put some dry ice in the front of crank and heat up balancer.

Engine is still stock internally other than cams, so it will be interesting to see how it's going inside. It has and engine number that is common with r33 GTR engine serial, so I'm hoping it's the wide oil pump drive crank.

Build up will be mostly stock as it's a daily driver, so new stock pistons, rings, rods will stay. Stronger fasteners and metal gaskets will be used though.

Guess I'll find out when I pull it apart and see what condition it's in.

As you can see space is precious.

I'll post pictures as I go.

Cheers.

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swanny180 Proficient

swanny180

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True, not a bad idea to throw a set of slightly tougher pistons in with stock rods. Would be good for a bit more power without costing much more than stock replacements would.

Either way though will be watching thread with interest :D Good luck!!

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GTRsean Grand Master

GTRsean

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Good point about pistons.

I try not to do short trips in this car so maybe I just might bite the bullet and go forged.

It was putting out 352Rwkw with stock bottom end so I just need to find a piston that can run tight skirt to bore clearance and stock rings. Just don't want a slapper.

I have read other posts and CP/ARIAS etc seem to be the go, but any input would be great.

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GTRsean Grand Master

GTRsean

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Arrr dam sean i need to drop my GTR off there for a few weeks so you can fit the dumps to my Turbos :). Hope all go's well.

Ha ha cheers. Yeah had plenty of practice pulling and swapping turbos in GTR's lol.

Hows your forged engine going?

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GTRsean Grand Master

GTRsean

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ACL race seies make a great street forged piston. Nice thick top rings to provide a good bore seal to prevent blow-by.

Looked em up a while back, you're on the money.

Can stock rings be fitted?

Cheers

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GTRsean Grand Master

GTRsean

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just curious, how long did it take 2 pull engine out? goodluck with rebuild

First time for me so all up it took me nearly 10 hours total with me working on it.

Pain in the proverbial.

A few pointers, I separated g box and left the prop shaft to the front diff in as I couldn't get the shaft nuts undone.

This meant that I had to remove both engine mounts to clear the crossmember.

I forgot about the power steering connector lol.

Front right drive shaft, I pulled the front diff cover off to lever the cv shaft out of the spider gear.

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GTRsean Grand Master

GTRsean

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Any more details with plans for the motor?

Aiming for an engine that is good for street, drag, and touring with no more than 8500rpm and 550-600 hp at the crank.

It was already making 352Rwkw on 17 psi.

I prefer to do this now than when it fails due to something else (piston or spun bearing etc) and cost goes up.

Still sorting out what to do.

But so far plans are:

Disassemble and inspect condition of internals, and clearances.

clean inspect and machine block

Tomei metal gasket kit and 1mm head gasket (8.7:1 comp ratio)

nissan gasket kit

Forged pistons ACL? 86.5mm

stock rings oversize

nissan or N1 bearings

stock rods with tomei bolts

Arp head and cradle fasteners

sump baffle kit

head oil restrictor

new oil pump N1?

inspect and rebuild head

valve guides

stem seals

new n1 springs

port match and cleanup

Edited by GTRsean
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benm Grand Master

benm

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I've been advised that the "nissan gasket kit" does not include all of the gaskets but to instead get an ACL kit as it includes everything.

Also instead of using stock rods with tomei bolts why dont u buy some second hand shot peened rods with arp bolts for about $300 (in the forsale section often).

Also get a "100,000km service kit" for about $450 which has the idle bearings, timing belt, cam seals and n1 water pump - cheaper than buying it all seperate.

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R338OY Veteran

R338OY

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Aiming for an engine that is good for street, drag, and touring with no more than 8500rpm and 550-600 hp at the crank.

It was already making 352Rwkw on 17 psi.

I prefer to do this now than when it fails due to something else (piston or spun bearing etc) and cost goes up.

Still sorting out what to do.

But so far plans are:

Disassemble and inspect condition of internals, and clearances.

clean inspect and machine block

Tomei metal gasket kit and 1mm head gasket (8.7:1 comp ratio)

nissan gasket kit

Forged pistons ACL? 86.5mm

stock rings oversize

nissan or N1 bearings

stock rods with tomei bolts

Arp head and cradle fasteners

sump baffle kit

head oil restrictor

new oil pump N1?

inspect and rebuild head

valve guides

stem seals

new n1 springs

port match and cleanup

Cheers for the info! I like this for a change - a good streetable rebuild. Most are completely insane 400+kW builds but this seems like something that's easier to live with.

Your wallet probably loves you right now.

You're happy to leave factory rods in there? I'm with Ben on this one :(

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GTRsean Grand Master

GTRsean

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The gaskets in aftermarket sets suck the big ones. Buy a genuine Nissan exhaust manifold gasket and any engine oil seals you're changing.

Not looking forward to getting the replacement seals, gaskets etc!!

I have already got idler and tensioner bearings from CBC in Eastern Creek a while back.

Have a new gates belt too.

Looking st getting Tomei 1.0mm headgasket and inlet, throttle body, exhaust steel gasket set from Hi Octane.

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