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A couple of price I got from Rocket Industries today that may interest you:

ARP head stud kit = $382

ARP main stud kit = $241

ACL race series rod bearings = $73

ACL race series main bearings = $99

Whoa, the bearing prices are over half of what I got quoted at Repco lol....(almost passes out).

Cheers for the info. I asked about an ACL gasket rebuild kit today and they include the headgasket, but I'm planning to use a different one. Seems like a bit of a waste.

  • 3 weeks later...

Still gotta take the block in to get worked on, and crank to get fixed.

Just got the new pistons and H beam rods.

Very nice!

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Decided to polish the plenum too. Only 35 hours to go lol.

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Outside is where the sanding happens now!!

hey mate

Awesome build... the DIY should save you a packet.. :rofl:

great work

Just curious as to what grade sanding wheel your using to polish that plenum... im looking to polish the rocker covers and plenum on my car??

Cheers

Corey

Thanks Corey.

Started with an 80 grade to get rid of the casting marks and rough surface. Lots of little 'spots' or pores that need to be taken out too.

Next one I'll use is a 120 grade. I'm using a dremel type tool to get inyo those hard to reach areas.

I also have lots of wet and dry sand sheets 180 to 1000 grit once it's reletively clean and smooth.

Also have to do the 'twin turbo' pipe too, but it's a lot easier.

  • 3 weeks later...

Got the block and crank back friday :) . Cleaned and painted it up. Also punched in Tomei oil restrictor into top of block.

Crank has a new keyway machined in.

Piston to bore clearance is 3.5 thou.

Used ACL race series bearings, standard size.

Plastigauged bigends and mains and they are loose side of factory :D .

Using paper towel to clean etc instead of rags during this build.

Filed rings to spec and gaps are sweet too. The only issue at the moment is the top compression ring gap is too large (21 thou).

I think it's too big and I haven't even filed them. I'm going to have to get some info on that.

Will post pics once the upload feature works.

Swwwweeeeet, this is great just like the engine builds on the uk forum!!

Hope this all turns out well for you! i figure you have some kind of mechenical experience? or work as one?

I stripped down my N1 block lastnite tho its getting the royal treatment 86.5 Mahles and Pauter rods! my old block i want to have a crack at home doing this!

Ha ha, I guess so. I have seen the uk one.

Good one, just take your time and read everything three times lol.

I had the factory manual at hand for all the stock torques, and used instructions that came with ARP bolts etc.

I'm building mine on the loose side of factory specs, considering it's application.

I'm now still up in arms on what oil pump. Was just going to run an N1. I don't rev it to 9k plus and I avoid bouncing off the rev limiter (jack hammering the inner pump gear) so for my streeter it should do the job. Funny how the stock pump was in excellent condition when treated with a bit of respect and could of been reused.

In my line of work (aviation engineer) we have three people to check one job, torque etc, if it's critcal.

ahh my friends dad is head engineer for United, i was going to pinch some of his tools and pick his brain for the build.

engine assembly really sounds like clean, clean, check, check then check some more, clean everything. and then check again and again. and pray to the gods the machinist got the job done correctly :thumbsup:

i'm probably going to reuse my n1 pump that came off my newish motor, the drive is in pretty good conditon (almost new), and i too will not drive like an Gorilla.

I dont know about oil pumps sean i have done about 20-25k kms on my N1 oil pump with out problem and you know how i drive my car. Also i think one of the traders was selling billet gears for your N1 pump. O yer i have always had a 8500rpm limiter if that makes a differnts.

I think for street they should be fine (track is a different story). They did get a bad name early on when they were fitted to short oil pump drives and failed.

So if you avoid the things that contribute to the pumps weaknesses, should be laughing fingers crossed (just my opinion).

Head is on with Tomei head gasket and part of intake system is on. Just waiting on new hoses, water pump, half moon seals, oil filter adapter o ring and shims for valve clearance adjustment. Cam covers are at Craved getting powder coated, and plenum is getting polished.

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Manifold and twin turbo pipes are pretty shmick now.

They ain't chrome plated......

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Cost a bit in the end but I'm happy with the result as I didn't have the tools to get them as good as I'd hope (wasn't bored enough lol).

These along with the cam covers from Craved will look okay.

Hey Sean..

Awesome work on the car doing it yourself and on base to, know how you feel im an AJ up here in Townsville.

Crank is a long pump drive(r33) and oil pump is good.

The crank cam gear keyway will need to be welded and machined as it's stuffed.

Would I be safe in saying that my 93 GTR would have the longer drive to?

In the same situation as you were a few weeks ago... Just waiting to remove the motor and crack the kinder suprise open :)

Looking forward to future updates, if you don't mind me asking what sort of coin was required for your boring? (you can pm me if you like)

Hypothetically if you had found that your pistons were det free and no score's on bore's, what route would you follow?

Best of luck

Tomek

Edited by Tomek
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