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GTRsean

By GTRsean,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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GTRsean Grand Master

GTRsean

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I've been advised that the "nissan gasket kit" does not include all of the gaskets but to instead get an ACL kit as it includes everything.

Also instead of using stock rods with tomei bolts why dont u buy some second hand shot peened rods with arp bolts for about $300 (in the forsale section often).

Also get a "100,000km service kit" for about $450 which has the idle bearings, timing belt, cam seals and n1 water pump - cheaper than buying it all seperate.

Hmm, sounds like a plan. Anyone got a set of stock rods with ARPs ready to get rid of!! Got the money ready!!!

Spool/Eagle H beams are apparently around 100 grams lighter each than stockers, less rotating weight??

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GTRsean Grand Master

GTRsean

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Okay, pulled more parts off today.

Started with harmonic balancer which was seized on the crank due to bolt being loose.

Poured boiling water on the balancer and tried pulling it off. It came off : ).

The belt had not slipped like I wrote earlier, the crank, cam drive gear had sheared the key in the keyway and was slipping that way.

Crank should be okay to clean up as the keyways are still okay.(Will find out if it's an R33 engine for sure after checking oil pump drive fingers crossed)

All the intake manifold and throttle bodies came of easy enough. Everything got marked so I don't mix em up.

All of the water, vac pipes will get changed too (never avoid changing hoses!). AAC valve was in fair nick, but it'll get cleaned up too.

post-12712-1214899332_thumb.jpgpost-12712-1214899354_thumb.jpgpost-22439-1122995437.jpgpost-12712-1214899412_thumb.jpg

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Edited by GTRsean
2rismo Grand Master

2rismo

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Mate, Spool rods are the go and come with ARP bolts. The lighter you can make your engine's rotating components (without compromising strength) the better. They're bloody good value too, especially when you compare the cost of prepping old rods with new bolts. It's just not worth the effort.

GTRsean Grand Master

GTRsean

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Mate, Spool rods are the go and come with ARP bolts. The lighter you can make your engine's rotating components (without compromising strength) the better. They're bloody good value too, especially when you compare the cost of prepping old rods with new bolts. It's just not worth the effort.

Hmm, true that one. I want lighter but stronger internals..

Cheers for your input :P

Just pulled off everything except for crank and cradle.

Not too happy with what I found with cylinders 4, 5 and especially #6 piston. It was doing great to still be running ok.

They look like something has been in there judging by the score marks and pitting/chips on pistons.

Pistons have no busted ring lands and no broken rings

Reading the engine failure thread ages ago, I'll assume in it's last home it blew a rear stock ceramic turbo and sucked in some crap... Maybe.

When I bought the car it had R33 N1's since it was imported, now running 2530's.

Engine is complete stock internals, 86mm bore so I will get it taken out to 86.5MM (20 thou over). scoring is around 8 thou deep on worst areas.

Bearings are in good nick, no picking up or scoring, they were stock nissan too. Crank big end journals were smooth and no scoring. I'll pull the crank out tomorrow.

Anyway here's the pics:

My work space...just one carport is mine!post-12712-1214926296_thumb.jpgpost-12712-1214926343_thumb.jpg[

tta

hment=168899:head_yo.JPG]post-12712-1214926429_thumb.jpg #1post-12712-1214926482_thumb.jpg #2post-12712-1214926528_thumb.jpg

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GTRsean Grand Master

GTRsean

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Ouch not so nice Sean owell some new rods and pistons sould have this beast singing!

True lol. Amazed it ran ok for so long!

Pulling out oil squirters, the bolts have a valve and spring inside and seem to only open when engine oil pressure is high enough!!Mad engineering.

Block is bare now, cleaned it and wrapped in gladwrap ready for machining. 86.5mm should clean it up nicely.

Checked the crank and bearings for damage/wear and thrust and all seems to be great for the use and abuse it had/has taken.

Measured mains and big end journals, big ends are all the same measurement. No out of round issues either.

Now I have to choose between ACL race series bearings, or Nissan bearings. I compared an ACL to a nissan shell and they look almost identical.

I'll put it down to what I can get easier. I've heard and been told the ACL's work well.

The R32 and R33 GTR engines have a few differences in regards to colour coding on bearings, as I have the R32 workshop manual. Just going off the markings on shells.

Crank is a long pump drive(r33) and oil pump is good.

The crank cam gear keyway will need to be welded and machined as it's stuffed.

Edited by GTRsean
GTRsean Grand Master

GTRsean

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Pic of oil pump disassembled. Screws were locktited.

Oil pump on the right is from the engine (r33 95 model).

Oil pump on the left is an old N1? pump I had lying around. It has slightly wider gears, less teeth and a different internal design and more screws for cover.

post-12712-1215042850_thumb.jpg

Gonna see how much billet gears will cost to get made just for curiosity sake.

A new pump will be used either way.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

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Posted

it's amazing how different the pumps are in the internal design. i love all the peolpe who always said N1 pumps were exactly the same except for a high tension relief spring...

good to see you getting stuck in mate. :D

GTRsean Grand Master

GTRsean

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it's amazing how different the pumps are in the internal design. i love all the peolpe who always said N1 pumps were exactly the same except for a high tension relief spring...

good to see you getting stuck in mate. :D

Cheers R.

Yeah the gear outside diameter is bigger too as well as wider.

Here's some pics of the main and bigend bearings. Mains are Green (standard 5 bearings).

post-12712-1215054643_thumb.jpgpost-12712-1215054694_thumb.jpg

Sinful Grand Master

Sinful

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Posted

Good Luck with the build Sean :D

I have just done a freshen up with mine

How did you find the turbo upgrade before the engine came out..from the N1's to the 2530's..your dyno figure is awesome and I am looking for the same sort of power figure but dont want laggy turbos to get me there..

GTRsean Grand Master

GTRsean

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Good Luck with the build Sean :stupid:

I have just done a freshen up with mine

How did you find the turbo upgrade before the engine came out..from the N1's to the 2530's..your dyno figure is awesome and I am looking for the same sort of power figure but dont want laggy turbos to get me there..

Hey Sinful,

Nice to know that your engine is fresh aye :D

Yeah, the r33 N1s were great for a bush bearing turbo and when I first got the car it put out 296RWKW on 18PSI.

Put the 2530's on and at first they were a little slower to come on, but with poncams and tune it is a great street car. Very sensitive to cam timing these 26 engines are!. The 2530's make the same power with less boost. When this engine is done we'll see what the response and drivability is like, I can't wait.

Edited by GTRsean
femno Grand Master

femno

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Ah Nice work buddy, youre doing well with the space you have and good on you for doing heaps of it yourself.

Piston damage isnt too bad, not as bad as having half of your ring gone and the others in half! and the engine ran fine! apart from blue smoke sometimes...

Will you assemble the engine or are you having someone do it for you?

P.S The car is being sprayed in a couple of weeks. Its running and driving now :stupid:

GTRsean Grand Master

GTRsean

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Ah Nice work buddy, youre doing well with the space you have and good on you for doing heaps of it yourself.

Piston damage isnt too bad, not as bad as having half of your ring gone and the others in half! and the engine ran fine! apart from blue smoke sometimes...

Will you assemble the engine or are you having someone do it for you?

P.S The car is being sprayed in a couple of weeks. Its running and driving now :)

Nice to hear it's on the road! Should look mad when it's done.

Yeah, space is a premium and lots of storage boxes are my friend.

Gonna get block cleaned crack tested and bored, honed then build it up myself. Clearances and keeping it all spotless is what it's all about :).

I'll take my time doing this build and have to save more dough up!

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