Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Gtr Power?


Recommended Posts

yer but its not about whether a car had a front mount or not...

u can only do 1 intake mod.. so say u have a s15 and put a front mount... u cant have a pod filter and so forth..

its just easier to get away with it in a gtr coz u could pass it off as a stock intercooler lol :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

If pods are enclosed and secured in a box then the cop will be none the wiser (unless its made of perspex)...its not illegal if u dont get caught :)

Paint everything in ur engine bay black if ur worried about getting defected, looks less suspicious than shiny silver pipes and intercoolers :down:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hahahah i like ur thinkin hahaha :down:

if u paint the cooler black then it will look exactly like a stock item and theoretically u could get away with that... but ur allowed pods so u wouldnt have to worry about that :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I also have a R33 GTR V-Spec and I found that induction and exhaust mods made a considerable difference.

My car is stock apart from Apexi pods in an air box, adjustable cam gears, Power FC, highflow cat, 3.5 inch HKS exhaust and 14 psi boost. On a conservative tune I am making 250 kw at the rears at 8,000 but it is making just under 240 kw at 6,000 and then slowly climbing to 250.

This results in a very driveable street car with strong induction noise and a deep exhaust note.

When you dyno a R33 GTR the normal practice is just to remove the front drive shaft.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well ok...but you know how the laws are now, you're not allowed to do any mods that don't have a corresponding mod plate code. Trust me, I've talked both to car and truck places that are licensed to hand out modplates and non of them want anything to do with the cone and mushroom style pod filters.

How have you guys gone with defects when the cops want to have a look under the hood. I've been to court once so far and have since then gotten rid of the car (a bombed out r33 gtst s1.5) They didnt look at the pods much....they instead got me for the BOV's, ride hight and also the exhaust system which rumbled away at a nice 114DB (lol)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

^^ Well there you go...

They got you for a BOV, which is useless anyway.

With the ride height, you could always raise up the car and your if your exhaust is too loud then put a silencer, or a resinator in or put a more quiet exhaust on.

Pods have been fine for me, no problems but if you still wana upgrade your intakes with pods, you can actualy buy a casing / heat sheild to go around and hide the pods or get a high flow panel filter to replace the stock one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeh mate that was all on my old GTST. I ended up fixing it all up and then I got bored with it so I sold it and got the GTR.

What sort of intake do you have? You got a panel filter in there?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I also have a R33 GTR V-Spec and I found that induction and exhaust mods made a considerable difference.

My car is stock apart from Apexi pods in an air box, adjustable cam gears, Power FC, highflow cat, 3.5 inch HKS exhaust and 14 psi boost. On a conservative tune I am making 250 kw at the rears at 8,000 but it is making just under 240 kw at 6,000 and then slowly climbing to 250.

This results in a very driveable street car with strong induction noise and a deep exhaust note.

When you dyno a R33 GTR the normal practice is just to remove the front drive shaft.

(00)SKYLINE(00) -- V-spec vs GTR, I read his post and not the info. on him on the LHS menu :sick:

Point taken though.

About the same power and similar mods for my R33 non-V-spec but stock airbox, 3inch HKS exhaust (I think its 3inch it gets thicker than 3inch at some points), and 14.7PSI boost (1 bar). Oh and I have adjustable cam gears...

Not much induction noise though, not that I care about that :D

Oh, yes disconnecting front-drive shaft is normal if the mechanic doesn't have an AWD dyno.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow if those are stock turbos he's running then he's pushing them right to their limit haha! With mine I probably wouldn't want to go over 12 pounds or so....where, 13 pounds would be the absolute max!

Hey some_cs_student, they don't make any sound at all if you have the stock airbox! My GTST was so quiet! Then, when you take the box it's like BAM! and the sound hits ya! The spool from a GTST (and also GTR) is unmistakable!

I love the sound - it got me hooked on them many years ago when I could only dream about owning even the cheapest r32 gtst lol

Yep, there are 2 mobs here in town that have AWD dyno's that they hire out.

Edited by tommis85
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I jst had my r34 GTR tuned today and made 241aw/kw on 14psi.

mods are jst a catback exhaust, race cat, hks ebc and power fc.

i read that the rb26dett in stock form actually makes 244kw at flywheel but was disclosed due to the japanese agreement.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I jst had my r34 GTR tuned today and made 241aw/kw on 14psi.

mods are jst a catback exhaust, race cat, hks ebc and power fc.

i read that the rb26dett in stock form actually makes 244kw at flywheel but was disclosed due to the japanese agreement.

244Kw @ the fly sounds about right for a flat or low 13 second 1/4 mile @ around 160kph.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeh mate that was all on my old GTST. I ended up fixing it all up and then I got bored with it so I sold it and got the GTR.

What sort of intake do you have? You got a panel filter in there?

I just got the two pods, no panel filter and no heat sheild.

But the previous owner put a snorkle to feed air to them.

(00)SKYLINE(00) -- V-spec vs GTR, I read his post and not the info. on him on the LHS menu :D

Point taken though.

LOL! Cool bro! :(

I jst had my r34 GTR tuned today and made 241aw/kw on 14psi.

mods are jst a catback exhaust, race cat, hks ebc and power fc.

i read that the rb26dett in stock form actually makes 244kw at flywheel but was disclosed due to the japanese agreement.

241 aw/Kw

Thats quite good for a street car, so meaning at the flywheel you probley by making about... just under the 300 kW mark... Just a guess tho.

You might as well goes change the dump and front pipes too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah its pretty good power, sorry i wrote it wrong its actually 235awkw, i posted my dyno page in the forced induction section.

i will be adding the dumps and front with some cam gears and call it a day, expect me in this years autosalon!!!

-Johnny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah its pretty good power, sorry i wrote it wrong its actually 235awkw, i posted my dyno page in the forced induction section.

i will be adding the dumps and front with some cam gears and call it a day, expect me in this years autosalon!!!

-Johnny

LOL! Yeah I saw that page in the Force Induction thread.

You should get a bit more with the dumps and front pipes as well.

Yep I should be down at Autosalon taking some pics and I might just enter too, thats if I get in contact with my friend Ray whos one of the organises. LOL!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, my first things I've been meaning to do for ages now are to hi-flow the intake (a.k.a pods) and the exhaust with cat and muffler etc. Should go well good then. Once that is done then well...then I might put the boost up a tiny bit if it hasn't crept up already.

That's the best thing to start with. With intake, exhaust and removing the boost restrictor (near PCM) you'll be making an automatic 1BAR roughly. It'll probably net you the biggest gain other than slapping on bigger turbos.

However, do you guys know what the cops think of them when they're enclosed in a decent airbox and firmly secured with approved brackets?

Most cops would probably let you off. I've been fined for exposed pod, but that wouldn't have happened if i had some el cheapo enclosure.

I also have a R33 GTR V-Spec and I found that induction and exhaust mods made a considerable difference.

+1 :)

How have you guys gone with defects when the cops want to have a look under the hood.

Yeah there's no escaping defects. Go by the book (plumb-back, resonator/s, pod-box etc.) and cops aren't over the top with handing out defects. You won't necessarily lose power with legal mods, like keeping your cat, but you'll lose the "sik kent" factor :D

244Kw @ the fly sounds about right for a flat or low 13 second 1/4 mile @ around 160kph.

And sounds a lotta fun too. Congrats :rofl:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

R33Boy, yep I've been informed about the boost restrictor by someone with a Stagea. I was going to do it but was then informed that the restrictor also has something to do with the smoothness at which the waste gate opens. Apparently when you take that little ring out of the hose the gates are operated quite roughly?

How does your GTR feel with the restrictor removed? Well I might get a nice neat box again because I'm one of those who does like the induction noise. I know there are some out there who hate it (especially those who wish they owned a skyline) and then there are those who have gotten sick of it (which is understandable - it's a acquired taste)

Could you please give me some background on the boost restrictor ring inside the hose? I want to remove it as stated above, but I'm a bit hesitant.

Tom

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tom here's a page talking about the restrictor:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/In...20&start=20

You can give it a try, but i haven't heard of complaints of rough boosting (i have a GTST so i can't give 1st hand experience).

Yeah i'm not big on huge induction noise because i daily drive my car. It just depends on how good it sounds, cause there's some loud-ass 'lines that i think are awesome :D

The restrictor is near the yellow ring on the hose going from the PCM (on driver's side tower) to plenum. Squeeze the hose and you'll find it (if it's still there). Lots of people have done it.

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeh that's a good thread. I see taking the little restrictor out as being a "rough" job for GTR standards if you know what I mean. I think you're meant to either leave it the way it is or take the entire PCM unit and replace it with a properly routed boost controller / bleed valve of some sort. I bought a controller for it and there's no use in me putting it on till I get a proper exhaust - otherwise you'd just be putting undue strain on the turbos with a crappy flowing exhaust.

Has anyone here actually taken the restrictor out in their own GTR? It would be good to get some comments from those who have as so far I've just been going of what other people have been told :D (if that makes any sense). If it's too rough then I wont do it (and will use boost controller instead)....but, if it seams to go alright then I'll take the bung out once the exhaust is on.

Yeh I know what you mean with the nice sounding ones hey? A mate of mine has a GTST with garret unit on it the size of a soccer ball. It sucks up small kids on the footpath. This turbo....it does't scream or whistle or go wooosh like a hairdryer....this things howls like a jet engine! Very unique indeed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i took the restrictor out of my 33 gtr, it made no differance at all to the drivability, cept it ran higher boost :D

also you can obviously just change the hose over and keep the original one with the restrictor in it if you ever wana swap back..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Justin, thanks mate...did you have an aftermarket exhaust on your 'line at that time?

Curiosoty got the better of me yesterday while I was changing the oil and doing other stuff on the engine. I squeezed the restrictor out of the hose with some pliers but am yet to see how it goes - I don't like driving when it's wet haha, too many idiots where I live who all go berserk when the roads are slippery.

I still have my stock exhaust on there so the boost would probably only increase by a pound if at all. If it feels wierd with the exhaust I'll put the restrictor back in and see how it goes when I get my exhaust.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So.... when I'm finally getting around to having my power steering leak sorted, now it looks like I've got the same issue most A/T Skylines are having. My A/T light will randomly come on and I'm stuck in 3rd gear until I turn the car off and on again. Only 3 weeks ago I did a complete transmission service: Oil flush + new gasket + new filter. This came out of nowhere!! It wasn't like the car was driven hard. I drove about 3 mins down the road to get fuel and boom!!!  Anyway, I have a few questions and hope you fine people can help me out here. All questions are in red. 1. The solenoids: I was looking at the parts catalogue in Amayama and I could only find the Solenoids as an assembly. https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/319404ax05 I read in another thread that Solenoid A = 31940-4AX02 & Solenoid B = 31940-4AX05 but the Amayama product has only the code of B. Is this the right part? Can anyone who has done the Solenoid changes or seen them confirm if this is the complete set of A & B?   2. Gasket and Filter: I'm not going to try change the solenoids myself because it seems difficult to do in a home garage with just 2 jack stands. I plan to take it to a shop and get it changed. I was also going to buy the transmission sump gasket at the same time so I don't reuse the same gasket. Should I just use the existing gasket as it has only been on the car since OCT 19th? (~3 weeks) Should I be buying a brand-new gasket and a filter? Does this job involve taking the filter out?   Thanks in advance to everyone. It's hard to find a video of someone doing a solenoid change on a R34 so any help you can give answering my remaining questions would make me less stressed.
    • Yea - From what I have seen from the video, the car idles like any R34 lol 50PSI of fuel pressure is hardly super abnormal, the regulator is working because the pressure remains static when the throttle gets revved, i.e pressure remains the same when manifold vaccuum changes. Bigger pumps on stock rails always bumped the pressure in the rail without using an aftermarket regulator to change that. Do you know what your IAC is actually doing? Has there been any data showing the stepper motor % etc? There's no way your idle is actually moving around the way the cluster(s) are indicating. You would hear the difference with the engine RPM flying to 3k and 1k in mere seconds. I'd be checking the wiring to the tacho. What the tacho is telling you and what the engine/ecu is telling you are different things. I assume your ECU doesn't display the spike. So whatever is telling the tacho to be at X rpm is doing something weird. When the going gets insane, you're on the wrong path. You've ruled out plenty of things that are working correctly/aren't the issue. Your idle isn't doing what the tacho is indicating. You have two seperate issues, I don't think they are linked, and the idle seems reasonably okay unless it's stalling which.. well, it hasn't. Troubleshoot the stall if it occurs by figuring out what your IAC is doing vs what it is being told to do.
    • So awesome! I love the RB with the exhaust on display.
    • NO HITS PRICE DROP   ENGINE - $8.5k ONO TRANSMISSION - $1.8k ONO  
    • If it has had a code in the recent past, the code should still be there waiting to be read.
×
×
  • Create New...