Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering if anyone can help with my little problem. My stagea has cracked control arm bushes and its starting to wander on the road so ive decided to replace them. I went to nissan and priced the bushes. They come as a exchange arm and you cant buy the bushes by themselves. They are $480 each arm exchange. Thats bullshit. Does anyone know of any bush that would fit from another car?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226464-control-arm-bushes/
Share on other sites

If you're talking about the caster rods (considering they're affecting your steering), then they are the same as Skyline ones, so you should be able to get them second hand from any Japanese parts importer. And you can buy the bushes separately.

And seriously, why would Nissan want an exchange part if they themselves "only" sell the arm as a whole part? Surely they're replacing the bushes themselves and then re-selling them as a complete unit.

And seriously, why would Nissan want an exchange part if they themselves "only" sell the arm as a whole part? Surely they're replacing the bushes themselves and then re-selling them as a complete unit.

LOL

this is actually pretty common. Ford used to hot rivet the ball joints onto their lower control arms, and then only sell the arms, not the ball joints. This lasted until the first aftermarket mob came out with a ball joint kit that came with this natty little base plate with 3 holes in it. You just knocked the rivet heads off, the ball joint comes off the arm, and the new one slotted in with the holes in the base plate linning up with the holes left by the hot rivets that were removed.

Ford started selling ball joints on their own pretty soon after...

So, yeah, look to a R34 set up and you will find that some aftermarket mobs are bound to have what you are looking for.

(+1 on avoiding pedders stuff)

Try the Group Buy, the 3 kits replace the most commonly worn bushes . Radius rod bushes $110 (allows caster adjustment), front camber kit $183 and rear camber kit $125 (allow camber adjustment). The Rear Subframe Alignment Kit $105 suplements the standard bushes and allows rear squat adjustment. Check out the Stagea Suspension thread for pictures and fittings.

Cheers

Gary

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What could be causing my clutch problem besides a bad master or slave then? Both those parts are new 
    • Just came across this, but in QLD I start leave again in 2 weeks, if it is still available I might drive up and check it out Unless, @MBS206 do you live near here????, if so I could hit you up with a finders fee https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/hope-island/auto-body-parts/nc-mx5-factory-hard-top/1328976391
    • My hold point for future mods is that I want a OEM detachable hard top first, but, finding one is a pain, MX5 Mania are looking for one for me, but, as hens teeth are more common, finding one in Australia is proving problematic  I can get a OEM one from overseas, hell, you can still get new ones in 'Merica, but, shipping is a absolute killer and I cannot justify the cost, or the risk of it being damaged during transport As for the aftermarket hardtops, whilst they do the job of being a hard top, and are fine for a track car, they don't seal well (read: leak like a sieve in the rain), and you need a plastic/poly rear window, plus they are a bolt in option only and not made to be easily removed I liked how the hard top on my NB could be fitted, and removed, by myself, in less than 5 minutes I know it sounds bad, but I'm waiting for someone to write off a car with one so I can swoop in on their pain, it will go to a good home though, so my guilt of this is tempered
    • I’ve got one on mine and it’s fine, 
    • No, you don't want to plug the vacuum line, as that will turn that side of the booster into an air spring and probably make it feel worse. I'm not saying that the GTR master itself doesn't need a booster. I haven't paid attention to the GTR one to know what size it is cf the non-GTR ones. But when you think about it - they have to do the same job, which is to move a little slave piston a few mm to do what it is supposed to do, and that final action is the same on all the cars. So, it is very unlikely that the GTR MC is any different than the others, because it has the same pedal stroke and the same output requirement. The booster just makes it feel easier. I'd suggest you probably have an actual hydraulic problem. It's totally common on these old shitboxes.
×
×
  • Create New...