Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 81
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Im selling bits but not bits that take an hour to pull out and are worth $5 sorry just dont have the time

PM's sent

Front drive shafts $250pair

Dash including, cluster,radio,climate, but obviously blown airbag $300

Standard exhaust $25 pick up only

Rear shocks $80pr

Radiator with fan $150

Anything else pm me, buy lots of bits and ill sell it cheaper!

Engine and box $2200 non neg

Box seperate $600

Link to comment
Share on other sites

CLEARANCE ON EVERYTHING I HAVE LEFT,

Left guard $70

2x 350Z wheels no tyres $300

elec mirror right side $50

left side skirt $50, rightside is repairable- will throw it in

tail lights $150

sun visors $50pr

front and rear seats, great condition $250

Seatbelts complete set $150

roof lining $100

Sunroofs $200

Rear 1/4 glass $80each side

TAILGATE INCLUDING WING, WINDOW WIPER ASSEMBLY $300!!!!

Cargo slide and mounts $80

Dash complete $300 includes climate,radio,speedo cluster,

Rear shocks $60

Autobox recently rebuilt with new torque converter $600 (cost $1100 to be done up!)

Long motor, RB25DET series 2, $1600

Left drivers door including interior trim and window $250

Left passanger door including trim and window $250

Rear right door trim $100

Centre console $80

Rear diff,shafts,hubs $600

Seatbelts complete set of 5 $150

Sunroofs $200

I dont have the room to keep any of this stuff and need it gone, I think the prices are very fair!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

these parts left, priced to sell........

Tailgate,lights,wing $300 complete

left side doors including interior trim $150ea

box $450

engine minus turbo $1400

seats $200

seatbelts complete set, $80

right side electric mirror $50

diff and rear craddle $450

speedo cluster $100

dash $100

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • With same diff ratio, tyre diameter and road speed, the tailshaft rpm is the same regardless of the gearbag's ratio. Given that very quick drag cars are probably doing similar road speeds to the fastest circuit cars (circa 300 km/h), and there will be many of either category that can't go that fast and so you'd have inummerable matchups between drag and circuit car speeds at smaller numbers, and given that they are probably using rather similar tyre diameters and probably using similar diff ratios, and...where any of those numbers were different they could quite easily be in opposite directions thus cancelling out.... I think you'd find that there'd be more similarity than difference in tailshaft speed between these two use cases, no?
    • they might see those prop shaft speeds for 1 to 2 secs only 
    • A year of slogging through this bearing issue and finally fixed. What a nightmare. The oil pressure increase did not fix the problem. If you would like to read all the details in case you ever run into a similar issue visit my thread on Yellow Bullet. https://www.yellowbullet.com/threads/continuous-rod-bearing-issues.2689569/?post_id=74193031&nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#post-74193031 In the end the rod bearings themselves were the issue. I had switched from ACL (first engine) to King because that was all we could get at the time and I thought nothing of it. Put the ACL's back in after a year of taking the pan off multiple times to change many things. Issue resolved. Can't believe it was just the bearings themselves all along. It has now been about two years since I drove the car on the street or had it at the track. At some point I had installed all solid and spherical bushings in the rear but had never aligned it since it just went on and off the dyno. Alignment was the first thing to do. (Old photo but same concept) Then I took the transmission out and went through it. This was my first gearset install and I've done about 15 since this one and learned a lot and wanted to apply some of these tweaks to mine. The aftermarket shift forks take very well to some modification and I wanted to make that change. Shifts are now super smooth and no having to find the gear. I also recut the 5th and reverse shift sleeves - always wanted to try this and see how well it works. It works very well! No grinds or having to do a second attempt going into reverse and 5th is perfect. Before During After Going back in In rummaging through my spare trans parts box I found the only parts I've ever broke on a stock trans; the 3-4 shift fork - twice!  
    • It also depends on gearbox ratio. Those drag cars running 7s passes aren't doing it on an overdrive gear ratio (probably). 1:1 is "fine", the critical RPM for a 50' single driveshaft in chromemoly is 6900rpm.... ....but when you shift into 5th and use 0:73 or 0:8 it all changes. Do you know their rear diff ratio? etc. That's the stuff that matters with regards to it. Whether it actually matters given your use application is also relevent. You may never get into those scenarios, like most ruined GTR's from Western Sydney don't :p
    • but for how long? would it handle a few laps around SMSP in anger? 
×
×
  • Create New...