Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

these parts left, priced to sell........

Tailgate,lights,wing $300 complete

left side doors including interior trim $150ea

box $450

engine minus turbo $1400

seats $200

seatbelts complete set, $80

right side electric mirror $50

diff and rear craddle $450

speedo cluster $100

dash $100

Do u have the drivers side weather shield above the drivers and passenger window. Will pay top dollar if u have? and also the grey carpet panels attached to the back of the rear seats. I want to put an amp in but dont want to damage mine until i can get another set.

  • Replies 81
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Sideskirts are they Dayz?

If so I will take them if still available.

Also need interior A pillar moulds...

Edited by inmate
i have the carpet panels but dont have the drivers weather shield

how much for the panels to be posted to melbourne and also would u seperate the back boot door. i am after the carpet panel in the boot as i want to put speakers in. If this is available how much is it going to cost to get all of it to me?

Travelling through C-Town tomorrow.

Would like to purchase the sideskirts.

Can you PM me your number so I can give you a call when I am in the area?

  • 2 weeks later...

Just wondering if there still are some parts left.....

Interested in the sideskirts (how much is left of the second one...)

Would like the rear wing as well if you would separate it since the shipping probably would be expensive to Sweden otherwise!

Would you consider shipping over here...

Chears!

  • 3 months later...

sorry had lost my password

i have the following left

both left doors, 100ea

right passanger door, 100

tailgate dayz tune wing and tail lights 300

diff and shafts-rear 350

front left guard, 50

boot pannel 50

right side mirror 50

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you put an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on and verified your oil pressure?   Noise being on the block, on exhaust side, how high up the block does it seem to be? It could be the VCT system getting cranky, especially if it's mainly at idle, and when warm, as that'll be your lowest point for oil pressure. Could be showing that oil passages / VCT solenoid are blocking.
    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
×
×
  • Create New...