Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb25/30 How Long Will It Last?


Recommended Posts

Personally, I'd be going for a stock turbo if you don't want to break things...

I'm running a T04R on the same setup as you, except for ceramic coated pistons, and a flowed head...

I hit 4000RPM and just snap into massive amounts of torque...

Off boost drives really well, but once above 4000RPM it REALLY Hauls ass...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not sure a stock turbo on the rb30det is a wise thing for reliability as they choke up way too much.

Mine used to ping so damn easily and ran bugger all ignition timing.

The tune with the GT30 is much less highly strung. The stock turbo was right on knocks doorstep even though we were running next to no ignition.

As a comparison the stock turbo running 12psi tailing off to 9psi saw a peak of 13-14degree's.

Drop the GT30 on and an instant 20degree's through out the rev range.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not sure a stock turbo on the rb30det is a wise thing for reliability as they choke up way too much.

Mine used to ping so damn easily and ran bugger all ignition timing.

The tune with the GT30 is much less highly strung. The stock turbo was right on knocks doorstep even though we were running next to no ignition.

As a comparison the stock turbo running 12psi tailing off to 9psi saw a peak of 13-14degree's.

Drop the GT30 on and an instant 20degree's through out the rev range.

The advantage though of running the stock turbo, is the ability to drop the revs, and still have just as much useable power.

And we know revs also kill motors.

I've heard of a few 26/30 combo setups (Not in australia) running twin RB20 turbos, and cranking out over 300RWKW without blowing turbos.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The advantage though of running the stock turbo, is the ability to drop the revs, and still have just as much useable power.

And we know revs also kill motors.

I've heard of a few 26/30 combo setups (Not in australia) running twin RB20 turbos, and cranking out over 300RWKW without blowing turbos.

What sort of rev's are you talking about?

The usual 7000rpm is fine for the rb30det.

With regards to the rb30dett running twin rb20 turbo's.. You've missed my point. :blush:

A 'single' rb20 or rb25 turbo on the rb30det's chokes them up reduces the available rev range. Causes detonation and has them living on the edge. You have to pull a heap of ignition timing out of it and even then it still pings so damn easily as soon as the weather warms up.

Mine with its stock turbo made its peak power at 4400rpm and felt like you hit the brakes at 5500rpm. Definitely not fun nor did it accelerate quick. Possibly with a 3.45:1 diff ratio but with the 4.3:1 diff ratio the lack of rev's absolutely killed its acceleration. The power band was compressed not widened. :(

No point having 110rwkw at 2000rpm unless your towing or pulling stumps. :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cubes, I am need of a turbo for my conversion and I was thinking something like this would be good,

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...T30/GT3071R.htm

With a .63 or .82 A/R,

Thats not to small is it?

Definitely don't go with the .6 on the rb30.

I personally wouldn't go any smaller than the GT3076 .82 on the rb30det which is what I went.

Mine recently made 302rwkw on 17psi. 200rwkw by 3.5k and 256rwkw by 4k. The cams really woke the motor up.

I must be dyslexic as I typed 265rwkw at 4k in other threads :S. Its actually 256.

It has heaps of mid range a perfect street setup. I can click third gear from 60km/h and torque away from rb25 and 26's making similar power that are sitting in second from 60km/h's without any problems.

And surprisingly as power is so linear traction problems are very little. Not lag lag lag and then hard snapping power delivery.. Just brute mid range when you put your foot down.

The GT3582r with a .6 rear will push 340-350rwkw spool slightly later than the GT3076r .82 and have slightly decreased throttle response. Which is most noticeable in the lower loading quicker reving gears.

Up from there is the Gt3582r .82 for another 40-50rwkw cams then GT4088r etc etc :devil:

IMO

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mine recently made 302rwkw on 17psi. 200rwkw by 3.5k and 256rwkw by 4k. The cams really woke the motor up.

I must be dyslexic as I typed 265rwkw at 4k in other threads :S. Its actually 256.

Its called a transposition error, you can tell because the difference is divisible by 9, ie...265-256 = 9 or example.........1170 or 1710, diff = 540/60 = 9, whenever the difference is equally divisbled by 9, its called a transposition error, common mistake in bookkeeping - I studied Commerce at UNI :-)

And surprisingly as power is so linear traction problems are very little. Not lag lag lag and then hard snapping power delivery.. Just brute mid range when you put your foot down.

Thats exactly what I am looking for, for the moment I am running an N/A RB30 5spd, and old uni'd half-shafts and 27spline'd stub axles, dont want the power delivery to come slammin on at 4000rpm!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just curious about manifolds as well Cubes, those turbo's dont have internal gates and I cant fit in a high mount manifold - absolutely no way does it fit under the bonnet of my Z,

Are you modding the stock low-mount and sticking a blow-off valve on top?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have a radium fuel rail on my Greddy manifold and used the supplied radium fuel injector to manifold adapters (The round green things pictured). I did always wonder if you could just go ahead and use the second lower hole like you're doing... Wouldn't thicker o-rings solve your issue?    
    • From what I've seen and experienced first hand with those powder extinguishers, they're good to use to break a window and escape the car, and half the time then do f**k all to stop a fire. You just need much more than 1KG worth of powder. Not to mention, half the time it's an engine bay fire, and you can't easily, and do not want to completely open the bonnet, so you're left pretending to be an American Infantry... Spray and Pray baby!   And then 100% that shit is really destructive afterwards!   Realistically, those little ones at a race track might help you keep the fire from growing and give the fire marshal / truck a chance to actually get to you with their multiple large bottles.   For a road car, these days, prepare to deboard as quickly as humanly possible, and move to safety. Allow insurance to fix replace it (unless it's like a rare classic etc, then do nearly everything possible to save it!) Keep the little extinguisher with you to help protect other things around you from burning while you stand there singing "How can we sleep while our beds are burning?"   Secondly, powder extinguishers I freaking hate for indoor use, (this isn't really relevant to a car) as you will get a powder fog around you, and it can be disorientating.   When I did fire training when at BlueScope Steel, they have (had?) their own fire brigade on site. We did all the training, and at the end we were told, "If it's an indoor fire, and you need to use a powder extinguisher, we as the fire brigade would rather you just exit the building, you're more likely to get lost in the smoke and powder fog than do much help, so just GTFO" And pretty much that was what they said for most other fires too, grab extinguisher, if it's much more than paper in a bin fire, use extinguisher to get you and others out of the building to safety...   Part of me wishes when my Skyline caught alight many moons ago, I let insurance sort it out, instead of putting the fire out... part of me now says "But I've saved a classic before it was a classic!"
    • Hi all,  I have a older model of the Greddy Front facing intake on an RB25DET NEO Head. I've bought aeroflows fuel rail and injector kit (1000cc Bosche injectors) and I'm unsure if the fitment is correct. The injector o-rings fit in the intake hole but it's not snug. I can very easily rotate the injectors even when the fuel rail is mounted. The kit also came with multiple adaptors, they dont make it any more snug and using them raises the injectors up and i cant mount the fuel rail. I hope this makes sense I've asses a few photos.    Thanks so much guys. 
    • So, to run the 4g aerials to the booster, I had to get access to the rear bulkhead....bit of a mission. Hot tip, don't offer to help change the rear shocks for a mate with a v37.... Remove seat base, 2 clips that slide forward to release it the it lifts straight out Fold down rear seat (pull in from boot) The side bolster of the rear seat is not connected to the middle parts that fold. To remove unbolt at the bottom bolt then push it up off the top hook Then there is a plastic surround behind the seat back, 2 pop out clips, 2 bastard clips, some swearing at it is out Pop the rear seat latch surround off Remove door surround lower trim then side trim  Remove c pillar trim - 4 clips, pull inwards not forwards Remove metal brace - 5 bolts 1 nut Then you have got to the rear strut top...what a pain!
×
×
  • Create New...