Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys is there anyone out there who has gone from side mount to top mount? if so how hard was it and what did you have to change? i know that ill have to change my manifold and prolly turbo plus also a wastegate while im at it...

dump pipe changes? i think so plus tune if im getting all that.

are there any link where i can learn from to

thanks alex

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226956-side-mount-to-top/
Share on other sites

  Shmee33 said:
hey guys is there anyone out there who has gone from side mount to top mount?

Top mount, as in a IC mounted on top of the motor, being fed by a bonnet scoop? (ala WRX)

If you mean front mount, then there are many sub $700 kits that should fit your need. You wont need to change your turbo or dump. Theres a few threads atm on fitting them.

... if you did mean top mount, im pretty interested in why your going that way, given the work required to get air into and out of the core in a Skyline engine bay.

you would need a bonnet scoop for it to be useful, which are illegal and defectable. it's not efficient and the engine bay in most skylines are packed like a can of sardines.

front mounted intercoolers are perfectly efficient and easy to bolt on without much or any modification.

Edited by dmr

^^^ you might have to say it a few more times...I've found 5 times generally gets the job done :P

Yeah you're pretty much right with what you'll need, there should be a thread or 20 of people that have done it already.

Front mount and an aftermarket turbo = defect

Not to mention as soon as they lift the bonnet it'll be smiling and waving at them.

for future reference:

stock turbo and manifold = Low mount.

turbo sitting up the top on tubular manifold = highmount.

stock skyline intercooler setup = side mount

Stock GTR intercooler setup = Frun moun

Stock WRX or GTiR intercooler setup = top mount

your mum, on her knees, face pressed in to carpet with me on her back = dog mount

so from low mount turbo to high mount what needs to be changed?

ill be going external wastegate with a t3t4 turbo.

are the high mount manifolds on ebay any good?

if i go high mount, i see people run there airpod straight to the front of the turbo. what do i do with the afm?

sorry im kinda new and need some good help.

To have a turbo mounted up in the look at me area, you need a manifold that is made to high mount a turbo.

almost ALL after market manifolds are like this.

To be honest with you, I have NEVER bought anything from Ebay. and the numbr of people with cracked manifolds from ebay goes to show the quality.

some people have had them working fine "AFTER" they've made a few mods to the manifolds like adding more welds to the joins, adding brackets to keep the weight off it etc.

Check the traders for sale section of this forum for manifolds.

also search "6boost" for what some people consider to be the BEST manifolds around.

ofcourse his prices start around 4 times what you pay for ebay junk. but come with a lifetime warranty or something.

Most of these manifolds have provision for an external gate.

Those people who have the pod mounted directly to the turbo have done one of 2 things.

1.) got an aftermarket ecu which uses MAP sensor (Mass Air Pressure) to get air measurements instead of the MAF (Mass air flow - An air flow meter)

or

2.) they have modified their intercooler piping to include the AFM on to the intercooler piping tract somewhere (this is common with the VL Turbo commodore DOSEing crowd - search the Calaisturbo.com forums for that if you don't know what DOSE is)

Are you doing this because you have a turbo that won't fit low mounted or are you after the bling bling HKS snail in full view?

It's already been said, but the bling bling option is a real issue for Police. At least down here in Melb.

if u want the bling and high mount it then, new manifold ( dont get ebay shit), turbo, turbo lines, dump pipe, intercooler pipe coming off turbo, then dont forget injectors, ecu, fuel pump, z32 afm,

if u want stealth go the low mount set up

  GTST said:
for future reference:

stock turbo and manifold = Low mount.

turbo sitting up the top on tubular manifold = highmount.

stock skyline intercooler setup = side mount

Stock GTR intercooler setup = Frun moun

Stock WRX or GTiR intercooler setup = top mount

your mum, on her knees, face pressed in to carpet with me on her back = dog mount

Does she dose?

na i wanna do this so i can learn, plus it will be a hp boost.

policce are not an issue where im from its all good i never get pulled over but i hear in melb its crazy for getting pulled over.

only time i go to melbourne i drink and so i dont drive.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...