Jump to content
SAU Community

Replaced Timing Belt And Now Car Won't Start

Fungus Mungus

By Fungus Mungus,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Fungus Mungus Collaborator

Fungus Mungus

Posted
Posted

well, as the topic title says... replaced timing belt. everything done according to the book thing.

everything happens when starter motor turns except for the actual engine running part.

engine became flooded and plugs got wet so replaced them as quick easy fix.

still not starting

timing is right

cams are right

CAS is right

exhaust smells like petrol and there is no suction from the intake.

does anybody know what in gods name is going on?

Godzilla32 Veteran

Godzilla32

Posted
Posted

Is it cranking over normally or does it sound different? Check for vital signs IE: spark, fuel, check compression. Narrow down which you dont have. Its impossible to work out whats wrong by guessing. Need to do a process of ellimination.

R32Abuser Mentor

R32Abuser

Posted
Posted

if there is ZERO suction from the intake, there must be a leak somewhere. Where that is, im not sure, its your job to narrow this down. Check cooler pipes, recheck teh spark plugs, and check everything that seals that you touched before the change (within reason).

Good luck

Fungus Mungus Collaborator

Fungus Mungus

Posted
  • Author
Posted

have checked and rechecked everything. everything that was touched has been replaced as it was before.

when it cranks it doesn't sound any different to what it would normally and by all rights it **should** be sparking, but i'll check that when i take plugs out to do comp check.

as for leaks on intake, it's a non turbo so it was pretty easy to remove all the intake piping and there is no suction at the manifold.

everything was done following a workshop manual and using the proper tools for the job. time to recheck everything again, comp test, spark test, and if all else fails, get it towed to a workshop and shell out a million billion dollars to have someone else fix it :P

Godzilla32 Veteran

Godzilla32

Posted
Posted

So the belt is on correctly with all your marks lined up correctly? Correct tension so it hasnt skipped teeth? If i was still in melbourne id gladly come take a look. Sounds interesting and i'd like to figure out whats gone wrong. Try winding the engine over by hand and see how it feels.

turbo_brian Community Regular

turbo_brian

Posted
Posted
  Godzilla32 said:
Try winding the engine over by hand and see how it feels.

This is what I prefer to do when I have done a Timing belt, if the belt goes all the way around and tension doesn't change at all as I wind, then there is no contact with vavles and other internal parts of the engine, and it's that 1 step closer in the process of the job :woot:

Also means if I have skipped a tooth or something similar, turning by hand wont do damage compared to what a starter motor can do, as I have seen starter motors have enough torque to lift a car.

B.

Godzilla32 Veteran

Godzilla32

Posted
Posted
  turbo_brian said:
This is what I prefer to do when I have done a Timing belt, if the belt goes all the way around and tension doesn't change at all as I wind, then there is no contact with vavles and other internal parts of the engine, and it's that 1 step closer in the process of the job :D

Also means if I have skipped a tooth or something similar, turning by hand wont do damage compared to what a starter motor can do, as I have seen starter motors have enough torque to lift a car.

B.

Its also a crucial part of fitting a timing belt and not optional by any means. You should set belt tension on the longest length of belt after the crank pulley, and lock the tensioner. Then you MUST wind it over 2 full revolutions by hand and re-line your marks to check they are still as they should be. Crack the tensioner bolt once more and recheck tension if it is a spring adjusted tensioner.

Good luck with the car mate. Seems strange that the CAS was ok before you did the belt change but not after. Stranger things have happened though :)

Deren

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted

if the CAS was buggered, i wouldnt think the injectors would fire.

checked the wiring on the CAS, had an issue with a customer car where a wire cracked after removing the CAS from the wiring to coat the parts, soldered up and off it went.

Fungus Mungus Collaborator

Fungus Mungus

Posted
  • Author
Posted

sounds like this (hopefully) won't be too hard on the wallet then

all i have to do is wait til the mechanic decides to come to work. he called in sick today.

meanwhile i'm stuck driving a mid 80's camry with no cd player, no balls, and a broken mirror (kindly loaned by my girlfriend's mum)

the only good thing about all this is that, in said camry, i don't smash my elbow on my baby seat every time i change gears.

Fungus Mungus Collaborator

Fungus Mungus

Posted
  • Author
Posted

got a call from actual genuine import workshop about it today

the tool who did it (admittedly, i asked him to do the job instead of getting it done right in the first place) didn't reattach the CAS properly and stripped some kind of linkage between the CAS and the cam shaft

or something

what he said was, if i'm honest, completely over my head but i understood the basics, just not what was going on.

they reckon i'll have a quote before they close today, hopefully i can pick it up after work tomorrow :thumbsup:

Godzilla32 Veteran

Godzilla32

Posted
Posted

There is a splined shaft that runs the CAS off the front of the exhaust cam. It also has a keyway to locate it and i guess if that wasnt fitted correctly you could stuff it when you tried to wind it over.

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted
  Fungus Mungus said:
got a call from actual genuine import workshop about it today

the tool who did it (admittedly, i asked him to do the job instead of getting it done right in the first place) didn't reattach the CAS properly and stripped some kind of linkage between the CAS and the cam shaft

or something

what he said was, if i'm honest, completely over my head but i understood the basics, just not what was going on.

they reckon i'll have a quote before they close today, hopefully i can pick it up after work tomorrow :P

Bet he's broken the half-moon key in the end of the exhaust cam. Which is what I suggested days ago!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      I drive the Tiguan much harder than the Skyline in all conditions, because it just grips and hooks, unlike the R33 shit box
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • Kinkstaah
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
×
×
  • Create New...