Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well, as the topic title says... replaced timing belt. everything done according to the book thing.

everything happens when starter motor turns except for the actual engine running part.

engine became flooded and plugs got wet so replaced them as quick easy fix.

still not starting

timing is right

cams are right

CAS is right

exhaust smells like petrol and there is no suction from the intake.

does anybody know what in gods name is going on?

Is it cranking over normally or does it sound different? Check for vital signs IE: spark, fuel, check compression. Narrow down which you dont have. Its impossible to work out whats wrong by guessing. Need to do a process of ellimination.

if there is ZERO suction from the intake, there must be a leak somewhere. Where that is, im not sure, its your job to narrow this down. Check cooler pipes, recheck teh spark plugs, and check everything that seals that you touched before the change (within reason).

Good luck

have checked and rechecked everything. everything that was touched has been replaced as it was before.

when it cranks it doesn't sound any different to what it would normally and by all rights it **should** be sparking, but i'll check that when i take plugs out to do comp check.

as for leaks on intake, it's a non turbo so it was pretty easy to remove all the intake piping and there is no suction at the manifold.

everything was done following a workshop manual and using the proper tools for the job. time to recheck everything again, comp test, spark test, and if all else fails, get it towed to a workshop and shell out a million billion dollars to have someone else fix it :P

So the belt is on correctly with all your marks lined up correctly? Correct tension so it hasnt skipped teeth? If i was still in melbourne id gladly come take a look. Sounds interesting and i'd like to figure out whats gone wrong. Try winding the engine over by hand and see how it feels.

Try winding the engine over by hand and see how it feels.

This is what I prefer to do when I have done a Timing belt, if the belt goes all the way around and tension doesn't change at all as I wind, then there is no contact with vavles and other internal parts of the engine, and it's that 1 step closer in the process of the job :woot:

Also means if I have skipped a tooth or something similar, turning by hand wont do damage compared to what a starter motor can do, as I have seen starter motors have enough torque to lift a car.

B.

This is what I prefer to do when I have done a Timing belt, if the belt goes all the way around and tension doesn't change at all as I wind, then there is no contact with vavles and other internal parts of the engine, and it's that 1 step closer in the process of the job :D

Also means if I have skipped a tooth or something similar, turning by hand wont do damage compared to what a starter motor can do, as I have seen starter motors have enough torque to lift a car.

B.

Its also a crucial part of fitting a timing belt and not optional by any means. You should set belt tension on the longest length of belt after the crank pulley, and lock the tensioner. Then you MUST wind it over 2 full revolutions by hand and re-line your marks to check they are still as they should be. Crack the tensioner bolt once more and recheck tension if it is a spring adjusted tensioner.

Good luck with the car mate. Seems strange that the CAS was ok before you did the belt change but not after. Stranger things have happened though :)

Deren

if the CAS was buggered, i wouldnt think the injectors would fire.

checked the wiring on the CAS, had an issue with a customer car where a wire cracked after removing the CAS from the wiring to coat the parts, soldered up and off it went.

sounds like this (hopefully) won't be too hard on the wallet then

all i have to do is wait til the mechanic decides to come to work. he called in sick today.

meanwhile i'm stuck driving a mid 80's camry with no cd player, no balls, and a broken mirror (kindly loaned by my girlfriend's mum)

the only good thing about all this is that, in said camry, i don't smash my elbow on my baby seat every time i change gears.

got a call from actual genuine import workshop about it today

the tool who did it (admittedly, i asked him to do the job instead of getting it done right in the first place) didn't reattach the CAS properly and stripped some kind of linkage between the CAS and the cam shaft

or something

what he said was, if i'm honest, completely over my head but i understood the basics, just not what was going on.

they reckon i'll have a quote before they close today, hopefully i can pick it up after work tomorrow :thumbsup:

There is a splined shaft that runs the CAS off the front of the exhaust cam. It also has a keyway to locate it and i guess if that wasnt fitted correctly you could stuff it when you tried to wind it over.

got a call from actual genuine import workshop about it today

the tool who did it (admittedly, i asked him to do the job instead of getting it done right in the first place) didn't reattach the CAS properly and stripped some kind of linkage between the CAS and the cam shaft

or something

what he said was, if i'm honest, completely over my head but i understood the basics, just not what was going on.

they reckon i'll have a quote before they close today, hopefully i can pick it up after work tomorrow :P

Bet he's broken the half-moon key in the end of the exhaust cam. Which is what I suggested days ago!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...