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Mario you turned that R35 into a motor-mirror. Your work is very good quality. Nissan paint is ridiculous. If i lean on my car it leaves an ass imprint.

I would gladly become your disciple, and you could teach me the ways of the wax. I will be diligent, and buff those swirls right out.

Peace to you, sensei :D

Thanks Buddy ! :D

Regards Mario

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Ok so I don't really care about paint and keeping my car clean (it's a shitbox R32) but OMFG that is awesome. I saw the before pics and was like shit that looks a hell of a lot better than mine, then the after pics was like :O:D

Damn you do some good work, and that's coming from someone who normally wouldn't comment on such things

:D Jimmy !

Regards Mario :D

Hi Mario

Nice work with the R35, looks great.

Just wondering whether there are any readily available products (autoglym/meguiars or similar etc - something that can be bought from most auto stores) to remove the watermarks like on the boot of the Lexus you posted pics of in page one? And also whether there are many of these polymer sealants you mentioned as well?

I have just finished detailing my R32 GT-R on the weekend (went through the clay bar - paint cleaner - polish - wax process) and still have some of these water marks remaining.

Thanks for your time.

Supposedly they eat away the paint, only removable with buffing with polish and then a poly sealant.. At least thats what he told me :kiss:

That is correct ! The longer you them on the paint the harder the become to remove ! :D

Water marks occur because when you wash your car the little droplets of water act like a magnifying glass, then the sun drys them out and you are left

with etchings on the paint similar to acid rain ! Which falls into the same category :)

That's why you must always dry your car, always !

That is why it's important to get them removed ASAP ! And the only way that can be done is via Rotary Polishing ! No amount of Autoglym or Meguiar's Scratch X will get them out !

Regards Mario :bunny:

You can add my kudos to the list, awesome job mate.

About the watermarks; it makes you think about the next time it rains and your car is parked on the street (say at work), then the sun comes out straight after! :banana:

Would look a bit weird drying your car with a towel outside the office...

You can add my kudos to the list, awesome job mate.

About the watermarks; it makes you think about the next time it rains and your car is parked on the street (say at work), then the sun comes out straight after! :down:

Would look a bit weird drying your car with a towel outside the office...

Thanks Matt,

Regards Mario :)

were those the final shots after paint correction? if so, defects remain...

what was the LSP used? wax/sealant?

i see you used Lake Country pads, what polishes were used?

about the only thing worthwhile in the autoglym range is the bumper care.

There are practically no products you can buy at super cheap/auto barn that will achieve an impressive finish, end of story.

Water marks/etchings are actually mineral deposits left behind, not a magnification after-effect of the suns rays

Daniel,

What defects are you referring to ? 95% of the scratches where removed ! I didn't want to polish any further because the paint is so thin on these cars it's

not a MB or BMW where you have a healthy amount of paint ! Plus try polishing Jet Black Paint without leaving swirl marks ?

I used Menzerna PO 106 FF on 6.5" Lake Country Orange Buffing Pad and followed with CCS white . Sealed with Wurth Gloss Sealing Compound !

It's alright to criticize but how experienced are you ? Would you have done any better ?

Regards Mario :(

There are practically no products you can buy at super cheap/auto barn that will achieve an impressive finish, end of story.

Exactly.

Why would you hint at suggesting a company of this caliber is even contemplating this or are you lamenting the lack of products at your disposal?

Whats your point?

^ i've seen a few people ask in this thread "what can i buy at super cheap, etc..." - my post was a response to those questions, not directed at Mario

I see.

Probably best to clarify that early on, so that no one gets confused, including Mario.

detail top end cars for a living

just top end cars? could anyone at SAU get a detail regardless of what car they owned?

I decided to give the Flex XC 3401 VRG a run , initially i wanted to use my rotary but then i decided to use the flex instead !

nice machine. considered a Festool?

Most of the car was corrected with the Lake Country Orange CCS Pads 6.5"

and LC White CCS 6.5" pads, i decided to try PO 106 FF since my client told me that i will be back to repolish the whole car again in three months time that's why i didn't want to remove to much clear !

even though you are using a forced rotation machine, you're using Final Finish, how much clear do you think you'll be removing?? :(

Interest to hear your thoughts re: 106FF choice for BOTH polishing stages? And given the car is jet black, why not finish on CCS Black?

Black is the most difficult colour to polish (damn straight! :Dwithout leaving swirls but if you're stepping down in cutting power of both polish and pad, there is no reason why all imperfections can't be removed?

Especially Jet Black on this GTR-35 which was very soft and prone to micro marring !Micro scratching :D

Mario

A bit like this brand new Aston Martin i polished last year strait from AM factory swirl city :)

agreed, doesn't matter what marque it is, dealer/factory delivered cars are usually in a shite state

Hey Mario, i have a serious question about paint...

My Subaru Sti Forester is WRC Blue and has these...how should i call them..tiny dried up water drop marks ( like fine rain has hit the paint and left a mark in the form of a droplet film ) on the paint after ive washed it with meguiars car wash treatment, dried it with microfibre and then waxed it with a $50 tin of carnuba wax...

the wash/dry/wax step... nothing here actually removes paint defects/imperfections. The mineral deposits from the water drops have "etched" into the clear, meaning some of the clear has to be REMOVED to remove the water marks. Can be done via polishing or sometimes a chemical cleanser can help. What wax did you buy?

Im not using a polisher by the way - all by hand.

Its that, plus swirls i recognize from the photos you took.

I know its easily ( maybe not ) curable but ill be buggered if i have any idea how... I dont even know whats causing it.

yes im here in Tokyo but is there anything i can do from here to cure this paint and bring it up to scratch without...overdoing it?

mate, Subaru has possibly the softest clearcoat going... (definitely Softer than Nissan imo) so you've drawn the short straw there, BUT with a softer clear, "most" of the times comes easier correction. I say "most", as softer clear, does not always mean easier correction.

You need a protective layer to prevent watermarks from etching into the clear (they will still show, but aren't in the clear)

Doc thats exactly what my paint has even including the spider webs, lol. Car looks great - and black is always a good indicator of paint condition. They say its the hardest to look after but it also shows off paint quality the best so its game on in that aspect... spot on, black is the hardest to maintain and shows imperfections the most readily of any colour, BUT is also provides the BEST results after detailing of any colour as well. It's a trade off, but i'll just choose black any day of the week

Anything else you can prescribe? I care about the car so i want it looking its best. looking it's best? carnauba

What is "paint correction" exactly and how good do you think Meguiars are? they're ok, very few decent products. The new UQD shows a lot of promise though

paint correction is machine correction, as Mario has done with the flex and LC CCS pads, some people would include paint decontamination in this as well

Maybe the paint defects are not so much to do with poor paint to begin with but how it's been looked after?

2.jpg

Mario, why is a jet black car being washed like this? I know this isn't your job for GT, but you're having to fix THEIR mistakes. Slap someone in the face down there, tell them to throw that god awful 'dog bone' sponge out and wash the damn thing properly!! :D

If your used to high end cars, all i can say is welcome to the world of Nissan paint.

Renowned for being so soft that slightly heavy breathing in a clock wise direction will cause it swirl.

I have a black 2004 V35 and spent about 2 days in my garage trying to get them all out.

see Subaru

Immagine trying to machine polishing it and then trying to remove the polishing compound , the bloody thing marrs the paint :)

Removing the polish residue marrs the paint or the polish compound itself is causing the marring??

So, whats the verdict on meguiars? Also, any tips you can pass on about paint care?PERFECT your washing procedure, and have AT LEAST 1 protective layer

How does Nissan paint stack up against Subaru paint? again, sorry you've got a Scooby, great car but! :(

For your fastidious car nut i would recommend , Pinnacle , Wolgang, Swissvax ( Very Expensive !) but Excellent !

which products in particular would you recommend for which particular purpose?

also, i have some stains on my rear windscreen (presumably from acid rain) that have not budged using meguiars scratchX, and ideas for removing them?

glass can be a whole new ball game when compared to paint, can be A LOT harder to rectify certain marks and off the top of my head, DEDICATED glass polishes (serious industrial stuff) is radioactive in some way. Very vague on details i know, but i this would be for the seriously pitted/marks glass

I think a Random Orbital Machine would be best ! Super Resin Polish who makes this?is a great product it really brings out the gloss on any colour

Don't forget to buy quality microfiber cloths here http://www.pakshak.com/buy-it-in-bulk.html

MP are decent, but will marre the paint (perhaps that's the problem you're getting on the jet black cars?) Aquatouch MF's are another level above MP, the ultrasofts WON'T mark paint if used correctly

RO's are a great place to start, like Mario said. Head to bunnings and grab a Bosch PEX400AE (will need to update factory backing plate though), great machine, although may have been superseded...

The problem for me was that when I had my GTR, it was a daily, so it was always getting filthy and I just couldnt bring myself to spend any extra time (apart from washing) on making it super shiny as the next day it would be filthy again. Is there a particular process to go through to make the effects of this kind of polishing longer lasting?

95% of the final look after a detail comes from prep, not from what you put on the paint as a LSP. Prep is key

Christian, depending on what colour your car is and where it's stored plays a big part how long a paint correction ( machine polishing ) and protection will last . good infoOne thing i forgot to mention preparation is a must. yep, prep is 95% the final look, IMO

Washing technique , Drying your car is also vital ,some people just let the water dry because they think that it won't do any damage, wrong !

yep, washing technique, IMO, is THE most important part of car care. You can keep the car looking shmick if you wash it properly. Yeah, don't understand why people drive off from a DIY wash place, with the car dripping wet??? 1, you risk the chance of etchings and 2, it's a great way to attract/pickup all the road grime you've just washed off the bloody car!

Also, a wax is very good to highlight those features like gloss ( 3D wet look )that's when you are in a showroom environment, but when it comes to everyday driving that's when things change . You have to deal with pollution, UV radiation , industrial fallout rail dust, and a wax will note cope with these extremes in climate changes well, depends what 'wax' you're referring to . That's when a Polymer Sealant is more durable and protects better.

agreed, polymer sealants offer superior protection but there's no reason why you can't use a wax which is layered to achieve the look and protection you're after. OCW is considered a wax, but is a carnauba/synthetic blend. Still plenty of protection

Through out the years car enthusiasts have preferred wax because of a warm look and not that sterile cold glass look which is typical of these products however , all that has changed today modern chemistry and high tech paint science has come up with a new breed of products which marry synthetic polymer sealants to natures waxes so you have the best of both worlds ! Gloss and Protection !

want the best of both worlds? start with sealant then layer 'nauba of choice

Mario, you haven't mentioned claying the R35 before paint correction... interested on your thoughts on this?

Did you run a PTT on the GTR? I'd can't imagine any new car these days having so little paint that you'd have to worry about removing too much clear whilst using 106FF on CCS White?? Rotary yes, FF on white? hmmm...

for those reading, the questions are purely and simply questions. As with many things, there are many ways to skin a cat, and detailing is no different

cheers,

daniel

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