Jump to content
SAU Community

automatic shifter problem

Driver

By Driver,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

Driver Grand Master

Driver

Posted
Posted

hey

When i take my car out of park i ususaly have to put my foot on the brake first.

But now i think the switch is broken, ive been trying all morning to take it out of park and ive stuffed around with it trying different things and no luck.

It happend a cuple of times early in the year but i just turned the car off and back on again then it would work..

Anyone know where that trigger switch is located so i can have a look?

I assume its next too or around the shifter itself?

Thanks

Brendan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22724-automatic-shifter-problem/
Share on other sites
MegaGTS4 Proficient

MegaGTS4

Posted
Posted

The shift lock control unit is located under the lower dash on an R32 models, don't know a great deal about R33 but I supose its in the same spot, the same thing happened to mine when it was auto and I just got used to using the manual shift lock over-ride which is a switch located at the base of the shifter at the front and it has a little red tab on the top and when deprssed it will allow the shifter to be moved.(they made it this way so you can put the car in neutral with out the ignition turned on.)

Driver Grand Master

Driver

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i tried using stiky tape temporarily but also it seems as if the

switch isnt strong enuf to pull the latch to move the shifter

or

it could be the plastic part which i taped up has a spring attached to it which seems like its too loose or tight for it to move..

im takn it to my mechanic monday to see wat he thinks.. :(

  • 16 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wazmond
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By Wazmond · Posted

      Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • GTSBoy
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • Wazmond
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By Wazmond · Posted

      So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • tsuokun
      Lets play a game - What is causing my oil consumption?

      By tsuokun · Posted

      Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • 25RBGT
      Got this r31 silhouette flood car to rebuild.

      By 25RBGT · Posted

      Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...