Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Recently I've noticed a few annoying noises in my car which I can't place and don't have the technical know-how to fix. Basically theres a rattle from the rear parcel shelf and a high pitched squeak coming from my passenger door when driving over moderate changes in the road.

These are really starting to get to me and was wondering if theres someone out there who can hunt out and fix these problems.

I'd assume in this day and age there would be people who specialise in sound deadening of sorts, stopping rattles etc. Any ideas ? Located in the Sydney area.

It's just too hard to try and find the problem yourself whilst driving to try and create the situation where the noise occurs ...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22726-things-that-go-bump/
Share on other sites

hey i just bought a 180.. well couple of months ago came with a whole heap of gear one thing a after market clutch.. buggered if i know the brand of it is but i know it must be heavy duty coz my leg gets a hell of a work out. hey and do you know how i can find out what kinda unit it is without pulling the bitch out.. but hey ive got this problem when i drive the car kinda easy ( hey what am i talking about you dont drive a drifta easy ) ok anyway.. it kinda goes klunck as i let the clutch out but when i drive the car and give it a little stick there's no klunck.. so there klunck and no klunck but mostly no klunck.. what do you guys think

That's just a heavy duty clutch for you ... depending on what clutch it is it's probably a button clutch tho, so either on or off.

The reason it's going clunk is because your trying to ride it and not giving it enough revs. Atleast thats what I've found, same thing happens to me sometime when I'm entering my complex at 5am and trying not to wake the neighbors .. it's just the pickup, sounds like somethings about to fall off your car eh :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
    • You can probably scrub the rust with a toothbrush or something. After you get the rust off flush well with water to neutralize and you will probably want to also use a fuel tank sealer to keep it from rusting again.
    • The sodium citrate solution is designed to buffer the citric acid to keep it from attacking metal quite so much, the guy that came up with that recipe did a ton of testing on how much metal loss occurs over time and it's nothing crazy unless you forget about it for months:   
×
×
  • Create New...