Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day guys i have my Rb20det with blown rings

and a RB30e block with new rings and bearings

Can I mate them up?

I want to keep my loom and ecu can i still do that if i get a rb25na r32 head?

cheers

its A31 cefiro btw

No, you can't mate up the RB20DET head and RB30E block - but (I may be corrected here) I'm pretty sure you can use your loom and ECU with the RB25DE head. I assume you are using an aftermarket ECU for this?

The RB20/RB30 heads flow about the same.

So no point, might aswell stick with the RB30 head and valve/cam that, cheaper too when there are only 12

RB25 head is what, 30% more flow in stock form, hence why its used.

RB20/30 simply put is a waste of time and money. Everyone that has done it would never do it again.

RB20/30 simply put is a waste of time and money. Everyone that has done it would never do it again.

100% agree, we did it before RB25/26 heads were readily available at reasonable cost. The required welding and machining of the RB20 head makes it far more expensive than simply bolting on an RB25 head. There are lots of issues with running an 86 mm bore into a 78 mm diameter cylinder head.

Cheers

Gary

100% agree, we did it before RB25/26 heads were readily available at reasonable cost. The required welding and machining of the RB20 head makes it far more expensive than simply bolting on an RB25 head. There are lots of issues with running an 86 mm bore into a 78 mm diameter cylinder head.

Yeah I guess I could have said that but decided easier just to say you can't, much the same as technically you can't use a solid piece of alloy as a head :)

100% agree, we did it before RB25/26 heads were readily available at reasonable cost. The required welding and machining of the RB20 head makes it far more expensive than simply bolting on an RB25 head. There are lots of issues with running an 86 mm bore into a 78 mm diameter cylinder head.

Yeah I guess I could have said that but decided easier just to say you can't, much the same as technically you can't use a solid piece of alloy as a head without a bit of modification :)

  • 6 months later...
100% agree, we did it before RB25/26 heads were readily available at reasonable cost. The required welding and machining of the RB20 head makes it far more expensive than simply bolting on an RB25 head. There are lots of issues with running an 86 mm bore into a 78 mm diameter cylinder head.

Cheers

Gary

that being said... if you had a rb20det head that already had the mods performed to it and you wanted a cheap project would it be worth it?!?

ive seen a stock rb20 head flow 375rwkw with the right turbo so i cant see it being too much of a restriction for say 300-330rwkw

letme know when you want to come pick it up simon haha

my car came fitted with a 30/20DET combo from japan, we've had the head side to side with a stocker and the only visable mods were machining out the water galeries to mate up to the block

stupidly responsive but never got a chance for a dyno run with it all

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But, do I have to? 😬
    • While doing my tailgate struts I found some rust. Also replaced my bonnet struts. Such a cool satisfaction with that job.
    • So I removed as much as I could from both sides. The shop vac did a great job of clearing 99% of it. I got it all as clean as I could and then absolutely drenched the whole lot in the rust converter. Tonight or tomorrow I'll hammer it again. The cavity must be close to 400mm in length and surprisingly I was able to get it right to the back.  I'll quickly reassemble and then pretend I never saw it. I'll post pics (for me to ignore later) soon.
    • Yea she is a hoot to drive 
    • I have always resisted the urge to go silly. 8" wide wheels and street friendly spring rates? Check. (Let's not talk about the steadily increasing spread of spherical joints across my suspension!!) Stock turbo, run at 12 psi? Check. Lasted for~?10 years before it died. Highflow put on rather than seizing the opportunity to go G45. You don't need 300 rwkW, let alone the more massive numbers that seem to be essential these days, to have a car that is already way too powerful and fast for a streeter. ~250rwkW is fine. I've never exceeded 200, although I will sneak up above it if and when I manage to get my finger out and do what needs to be done to use the highflow's capacity. You don't need $10k worth of CF bits glued onto the outside. You don't need razor sharp ankle cutting front splitters. You don't need the car to be 2" off the ground. You don't need flawless paint, mirror finished wheels, brand new indicator lenses, etc etc. All these things just make the car impractical and will cause you pain when they get damaged, which is inevitable for a street car. A few nice additions are good. Good seats are good. A nice stereo is good. A/C is good! (46° on the road yesterday and my A/C is degassed again. Was moderately traumatic driving home!) The main reason I stick with a mildly modified old Skyline is that I have had it for >25 years, the mods are the rolling result of 25 years of things dying and being upgraded opportunistically, coupled with a few "just 'coz" ones. And I hate almost all modern cars. If I was a young buck starting out now.... I wouldn't bother. Cars have a few years left where there is any possibility of interest or fun. Thereafter there will be no such thing allowed or possible. Any time, money and effort spent now on a project would just be a waste.
×
×
  • Create New...