Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So the other day I was convinced into buying a sub and amp. I bought a 12" Alpine Type-R which I've since looked up online and found it to be an absolute monster of a sub (much more power than I needed).

My question is, with a sub like this do I really need to deaden the boot and doors of my car? I'm assuming doors are more for tweeters than the sub, but the boot could be a problem.

Excuse my lack of knowledge, but how essential is sound deadening? I mean, beside poorer sound quality, there's no chance of me damaging anything is there? Is it really only required if you want to take your sub to its maximum ability, or does it help with lower volume thumps too?

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/227334-sound-deadening/
Share on other sites

you wont damage anythin no. is it necessary? no. It does however stop rattles and other such irritations, which in turn helps the sound quality. Also makes it harder for people outside the car to hear ur system. however because it sounds better it can draw more attention to ur car. Depends how loud u have it.

would i recommend it? well ive never used it to give you that advice, however i have heard good things.

Hope that helps

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/227334-sound-deadening/#findComment-4002284
Share on other sites

as far as foam and stuff in sound killing, i just got a cheapo roll of foam, i was just gonna get that black tar type stuff to stick it down.

how effective is it using budget crap foam as opposed to the ultra expensive foam.

will it really make a difference?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/227334-sound-deadening/#findComment-4010873
Share on other sites

Foam will make a difference, heck stuffing your doors with the neighbour's old clothes will make a difference, but the thing is you need to use more foam or thicker foam than you do the Dynamatting or dynamatt extreme.

When I get some money together (repairing car + Wedding hurts funds), I will be dynomatting my doors, floors, backseat, boot, and even tossing as to taking the sound sheet off the bonnet, and layering it with dynamatt before putting the sound back on. On know it will make the car heavier (about 60kgs all up) but with the dynamatt in all those areas, the weight is evening distributed, will keep the cabin noise down, and also help with engine noise outside the car.

B.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/227334-sound-deadening/#findComment-4011105
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey guys I’m chasing a Rb20det complete or bare block need a good running engine as mine has low comp 
    • You're making my point for me. 95 is not "premium". It is a "slightly higher octane" version of the basic 91 product. The premium product that they want people to buy (for all the venal corporate reasons of making more profit, and all the possibly specious reasons of it being a "better" fuel with nicer additive packages) is the 98 octane stuff. 95 is the classic middle child. No-one wants it. No-one cares about it. It is just there, occupying a space in the product hierarchy.
    • 98 and 95 have to meet the same national fuel standards beside the actual RON.  91 has lower standards (which are quite poor really), so 95 is certainly not 91 with some octane booster. It would be an easier argument to claim 98 is just 95 with some octane boosters. Also RON doesn't specify 'quality' in any sense, only the octane number.  Anything different retailers decide or not decide to add to their 95 or 98 is arbitrary and not defined by the RON figure.
    • Anyone know alternatives to powerplus tungsten? Can't find an alternative online. 
    • 95 is just a scam outright. 98 is the real "premium" with all the best detergents and other additive packages, and at least historically, used to be more dense also. 95 is just 91 bargain basement shit with a little extra octane rating. Of course, there's 91 and there's 91 also. I always (back in the 90s early 2000s) refused to put fuel in from supermarket related fuel chains on the basis that it was nasty half arsed shit imported from Indonesia. Nowadays, I suspect that there is little difference between the nasty half-arsed shit brought in by the "bargain" chains and the nasty half-arsed shit brought in by the big brands, given that most of it is coming from the same SEAsian refineries. Anyway - if there's still anything to that logic, then it would apply to 95 also. 98 is only made in decent refineries and, as I said, is usually the "premium" fuel, both in terms of octane rating and "use this because it's good for your engine because it's got the unicorn jizz in it!".
×
×
  • Create New...