Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey peoples,

I got a 93 r33 gtst, its got a 3 inch exhaut and a k&n pod filter among other things but they are the engine mods that im aware of. It has a greddy boost controller-just the turn dial one from in the engine bay. Whe i got it i knew that the boost was tweaked abit and have since been playing with it abit. I was having problems with it and people have told me that what im experiencing is boost cut!!! If i was cruizing along in 3rd at round 60 and then plant it once it hits between 3 and 4 grand it jolts and comes good then jolts and so on. So i turned the boost down 2 notches and tried again, still happening, so another 2 notches and now it doesnt do it but there is a major difference in power now. I mean on a cold night it was pretty good at the previous boost levels aslong as i stayed above 3500rpm in 3rd 4th n 5th. So on the highway it went really well but round town i notice the stuttering more so now. I changed the plugs and put iridiums in and also changed the fuel filter. And gave it a service. I only got the factory boost gauge and was unsure of what it was running before but it used to stop at 7 but now after turning it down 4 notches it is on bout 6. Much much slower on boost now. Not happy with it and want to know if there is anyway to get around this boost cut situation without getting a front mount?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22734-boost-problem/
Share on other sites

sounds like a good tip..... only with mine the problem has been cured by removing the cheap and nasty mechanical boost controller.....all I need to do now is work on restoring the kick ass power I was used to. From what I have learned recently a good electronic boost controller is the way to go.

Cheers

Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22734-boost-problem/#findComment-490350
Share on other sites

OK - if your getting a reading of 6-7 on the factory boost gauge that means your running about 13-14psi !! (7 on the factory gauge is close to 1 bar).

It will be the factory boost limit or your plugs. Regapping your plugs to 0.8mm might help.

I wouldn't recomend that you run more than 10psi if it's a series 2, and 12psi if it's a series 1.

J

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22734-boost-problem/#findComment-490381
Share on other sites

yep, it's a series one.....I have an auto meter boost gague, with the origional disconnected. As mentioned above the car now runs smooth, I just need a reliable and controlable way of reaching the 10.5 psi it now reaches through a restricter. I don't think it needs to boost any higher than that.....just want to get there a bit quicker!!

Ta

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22734-boost-problem/#findComment-490393
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This was a huge help.  We followed the steps,  although shifting into 2nd was actually into 3rd for us,  and 1st was into 2nd ( steps 9 and 11) .  The long flash was the 4th flash.  So shift solenoid A is possibly the culprit.  Is this inside the transmission itself? Or is it accessible by just front the pan? Or is it bolted to the outside of the transmission?  Thanos for your help everyone
    • Can you enlighten me on your best practice regarding these hoses? I don't wanna make the same mistake if you already got a better solution.
    • I have some silicon hoses already, for example engine to watercooler. But yeah, I get the sentiment. The lower intercooler silicon hose is drippy too, despite not being very old. Does anyone except Nismo make these same lines out of rubber? Long term I think they'd be the better replacement, especially since the car won't live as hard a life anymore as in the past nor be driven as often.
    • I know most issues are just age related. But for example the turbo oil drains, there is dash adapters for these and you can just make a braided teflon line for them and (probably) never have them leak again. Also not terribly expensive. Can you even get the factory hardlines from new? Or are they repairable if they break?
    • I know it'd be much much easier with the tool. I hope I can find one that won't take 3 weeks to get to me an isn't a "Asian models kit" that has tons of (to me) useless adapters for a load of cash.   It's a summer project/fun car. I do wanna enjoy it, without endless downtime over and over. So yeah I would even go and buy an engine crane + stand to save myself the trouble of hard to reach or unreachable places going bad later on. Would also be a good opportunity to put on a Fluidamper, renew the mains seals and stuff like that. I have some money on the side that I can use for that, what I wouldn't want to or be able to do is let everything be done by a shop or have my engine completely rebuild right now. I intend to do most of the "doable" jobs myself. Pulling an engine can't be that hard, can it?
×
×
  • Create New...