Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

34 GTt's are 206kw flywheel stock (take about 7 or 8 kw for auto so ~198kw) and i dont think you would lose that much to the wheels without any mods. so with those mods its definately low. Did u get ur car from ur mates yet ??

Yeah I got the car back into Hyperdrive yesturday they think the fuel pump may of died or it was a dodge connection.

I still have the dyno sheets in the car but it shows a lot of flat spots. That's why it was very jerky to drive.

sometimes hyperdrive tend to tune the cars wayyy too safe, that could be it.

did u ask hyperdrive why it was reading low?

when allstar open back up maybe take it there?

Hyperdrive didn't say why it was that low. They said that they were going to put back on the dyno when they fix the fuel pump

If it doesn't change I may take it to allstar.

Boost controller could be making it jerky to drive, mine was jerky coming on boost till I had another fiddle with the ebc. It would come on hard then 1000rpm later it would kind of hesitate for half a second then pull hard again.

I dropped down the pressure it holds the gate shut till by 0.2 and it made a huge difference, really smooth and still pulls just as hard.

I just spoke to Hyperdrive on the phone, they said that another R34 was getting the ecu tune yesturday at the same amount of boost not sure what mods it had but it pulled a 220rwhp and it was a manual. Which is another 6wrhp than I pulled.

i have pretty much the same mods but a simple Safc2 rising rate fuel reg plus a front pipe. had my 98 34gtt auto tuned at performance unlimited and it made 218.4kw at the wheels.(292.9rwhp) was tuned at 10psi, power curve was ok but thats all you can get with a safc2.

hope you have better luck once your pump is fixed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...