Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

my 32 gts-t is idling at around 1,500rpm, and it feels the tps could possibly be a cause. It feels a little out, when switching from light throttle to no throttle at low speeds, kicks and jerks around alot.

Has anyone else experienced this? I've had a look around but can't find anything clear on how to adjust these.

What RPM is normal for idle on a rb20?

cheers guys :whistling:

normal idle is around 900rpm or less even 800rpm (its on a sticker on the underside of the bonnet)

if TPS is dead RPM will jump and peg at 1500rpm as a failsafe for the engine

so if you see your idle ramp to 1500rpm and sit there, the TPS is toast, that is, the value its telling the ECU is out of range, ie: its probably 0.0 when it happens.

if the TPS is toast the car will be jerky as cos the computer will try and detect and determine load from the TPS, but the sensor goes to 0.0 (lets say) so it jerks and is stally

i have the same problem at the moment, no idea whats causing it.

Probably what that guy said.

That's shit news but a mad bit of advice man, cheers!

Do you know roughly off the top of your head how much a new TPS is?

Edited by G Kanobi

they arnt that much at all, could probably find 1 for $50 or something, me and my mates did a engine conversion on a laurel putting a rb20det into it, when we hooked it all up and started it it ran like crap, miss firing and everything, trying to pull all the plugs off and re do it, we found out it was the afm that was unplugged, so we started it again and it went straight to 1500rpm and still just wasnt running right which was pissing me off even more, found out my mate didnt plug the tps back in properly ands the idle dropped down to 1000rpm, so i think tps is the right track, at least its not hard to change,

gl with it,

how about knocking 100revs or so off the idle?

i tried the screw in the front of the ecu, but it did squat.

mine sits at about 1000/950 which i find a bit annoying :|

Edited by norwest_rumbler

if it sits dead on 1500rpm, the tps is bugger as mentioned above. If there is anthing wrong with the tps the ecu will go into a safe mode and just idle at 1500rpm. Check your voltages at the tps at fully closed and open, and if they seem correct adjust the idle screw on the throttle body.

Edited by R34GTFOUR
The grubscrew on the idle stepper.

where is the idle stepper located? i have a r32 silvertop.

is it the round thing about the size of a D size battery with wires coming out of it thats mounted on the top rear of the intake manifold?

or is it the thing that looks like a diaphragm with hoses coming out of it below the throttle body? (doubt it)

either way i cant find any adjusting screw

:D

AAC on a RB20DET is located on the firewall side of the i.plenum, it's rather D size I guess'ish hah.

Nissan say 600rpm.

thanks a heap :) i never would have found it without that info.

it was seized up, but a bit of wd40 fixed it. i set the idle to 600, even had it ticking over at about 400 no probs.

cheers

you can see the screw from the drivers side of the engine bay.

all you need is a flat blade screwdriver to turn the screw, clockwise (winding it in) will reduce the idle speed.

best to adjust it when the car is at operating temp

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey all, my 2004 Nissan Skyline 350GT overheated the other day with coolant boiling and leaking out of the coolant reservoir when I was parking. So today, I started it up again just to see if it was a thermostat/head gasket issue. After about 20 mins of running, temps were normal again, no coolant was leaking out and the upper reservoir hose was warm but my engine suddenly cut off. I checked the oil dipstick and cap when it was running and there was no white foamy residue and the exhaust did not have white smoke. I tried starting up the car again but it would only crank, similar to when I had a camshaft sensor issue just that now there’s no check engine light on the dash. Any ideas? Unfortunately I don’t have an OBD2 that can read the Nissan's programme.
    • Bump on this to not make another post, had a ‘head drain’ leak on me and have the engine out as we speak. Planning on just putting a new freeze plug back in , plug the tapped holes and just be done with that headache.    Now I still want to relieve pressure to allow oil to pass down the blocks returns easier. I’ve seen catch cans with multiple vents help folks with this issue on this forum.  I’m wanting to make my own. I have some pictures here of my setup if anyone can help how I should plumb and design the catch can I would deeply appreciate it !   rb25 Oil upgrades: 1.0mm restrictor n1 pump/billet gears extended crank collar  extended sump with trap doors/w welded fitting    
    • The Frenchy's kit is the way to go forward. A modern compressor that weighs about 1/2 as much, is at least twice as efficient, and will do a good job on R134a. And of course the kit has everything else you need to connect it up and have it work properly.
    • Hey all , I am in the process of having the AC system in my r32 GTST converted from r12 to r134a and I’m being told my compressor has gone bad and I will need a new one. I was wondering if anybody has any suggestions for what is the best route to go aside from dropping $1500 on a new oem one? I did see that Frenchy’s performance garage offers a kit to mount a Toyota compressor, has anybody actually used this kit on their car? Or is there anywhere I could purchase just a clutch? Any help is appreciated.
    • Well, your RB20 ECU loom won't have wires for the boost solenoid, that boost sensor, and possibly one or two other things. There could be differences in seemingly random things like the charcoal canister purge solenoid, because the 25DET has to handle boost in the vacuum system and the 20DE does not. I don't know - I haven't looked. It is very likely that all the most important things are same-same, being the main sensors like AFM, CAS, etc, and the injectors and ignition. Not that you'll need the AFM for the Haltech anyway. I would suggest that you would seriously want to sit down with the pinouts for both ECUs and just go through them and highlight green what is the same, orange what is different/missing, and make a plan from there. It's not going to be difficult. It will either be the same or need to be fixed.
×
×
  • Create New...