Jump to content
SAU Community

How To Adjust Tps And Idle On R32 Gts-t

G Kanobi

By G Kanobi,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

G Kanobi Enthusiast

G Kanobi

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

my 32 gts-t is idling at around 1,500rpm, and it feels the tps could possibly be a cause. It feels a little out, when switching from light throttle to no throttle at low speeds, kicks and jerks around alot.

Has anyone else experienced this? I've had a look around but can't find anything clear on how to adjust these.

What RPM is normal for idle on a rb20?

cheers guys :whistling:

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

normal idle is around 900rpm or less even 800rpm (its on a sticker on the underside of the bonnet)

if TPS is dead RPM will jump and peg at 1500rpm as a failsafe for the engine

so if you see your idle ramp to 1500rpm and sit there, the TPS is toast, that is, the value its telling the ECU is out of range, ie: its probably 0.0 when it happens.

if the TPS is toast the car will be jerky as cos the computer will try and detect and determine load from the TPS, but the sensor goes to 0.0 (lets say) so it jerks and is stally

G Kanobi Enthusiast

G Kanobi

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
i have the same problem at the moment, no idea whats causing it.

Probably what that guy said.

That's shit news but a mad bit of advice man, cheers!

Do you know roughly off the top of your head how much a new TPS is?

Edited by G Kanobi
sly32 Proficient

sly32

Posted
Posted

they arnt that much at all, could probably find 1 for $50 or something, me and my mates did a engine conversion on a laurel putting a rb20det into it, when we hooked it all up and started it it ran like crap, miss firing and everything, trying to pull all the plugs off and re do it, we found out it was the afm that was unplugged, so we started it again and it went straight to 1500rpm and still just wasnt running right which was pissing me off even more, found out my mate didnt plug the tps back in properly ands the idle dropped down to 1000rpm, so i think tps is the right track, at least its not hard to change,

gl with it,

NWR31 Collaborator

NWR31

Posted
Posted (edited)

how about knocking 100revs or so off the idle?

i tried the screw in the front of the ecu, but it did squat.

mine sits at about 1000/950 which i find a bit annoying :|

Edited by norwest_rumbler
R34GTFOUR Mentor

R34GTFOUR

Posted
Posted (edited)

if it sits dead on 1500rpm, the tps is bugger as mentioned above. If there is anthing wrong with the tps the ecu will go into a safe mode and just idle at 1500rpm. Check your voltages at the tps at fully closed and open, and if they seem correct adjust the idle screw on the throttle body.

Edited by R34GTFOUR
NWR31 Collaborator

NWR31

Posted
Posted
The grubscrew on the idle stepper.

where is the idle stepper located? i have a r32 silvertop.

is it the round thing about the size of a D size battery with wires coming out of it thats mounted on the top rear of the intake manifold?

or is it the thing that looks like a diaphragm with hoses coming out of it below the throttle body? (doubt it)

either way i cant find any adjusting screw

:D

NWR31 Collaborator

NWR31

Posted
Posted
AAC on a RB20DET is located on the firewall side of the i.plenum, it's rather D size I guess'ish hah.

Nissan say 600rpm.

thanks a heap :) i never would have found it without that info.

it was seized up, but a bit of wd40 fixed it. i set the idle to 600, even had it ticking over at about 400 no probs.

cheers

NWR31 Collaborator

NWR31

Posted
Posted

you can see the screw from the drivers side of the engine bay.

all you need is a flat blade screwdriver to turn the screw, clockwise (winding it in) will reduce the idle speed.

best to adjust it when the car is at operating temp

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • r32-25t
      R32 GTR clutch master cylinder adapters

      By r32-25t · Posted

      There are adaptors that allow you to delete the booster and use an s15 clutch master cylinder.    if you want to keep the booster they are still available brand new 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I visited again today: It would appear they have painted the main body of the car and some parts of some of the panels, so I can say that I now have BMW parts in my car, much to the envy of @Dose Pipe Sutututu It is still covered in dust which is quite the tease but I did look at a few circumspect spots that will be behind bumpers and such and wiped some dust away: After my repeated begging to PLEASE DONT PAINT OVER THE ENGINEERING CERTIFICATE (you have to re-engineer the entire car if they do) I see THIS: Which is great. Excellent job tbh at least to me. A better non dusty example would be the backs of the doors that have been painted: Giving a reasonable contrast between old and new (I know the old isn't clear coated on the inside of doors). The door card will well and truly cover where the old paint is, you can see in the second pic some of the black butyl/whatever shit is sticking the plastic sheet behind the door transfer that has happened since it's clearly been stuck back on. The most maddening thing about this colour is every time I saw it in the wild it looks like another colour, same with photos of many cars with the same colour looking wildly different in every photo anybody ever takes and this is no exception. But stand a little further back and it suddenly looks dark AF. I did tell them when I was discussing which of the 70 million charcoal colours to choose from (a porsche one, a BMW one, or a R32 GTR one etc) that if they just ignored me and chose one at random I would probably never notice. Maybe they did. But the colour is supposed to be B39 (BMW Mineral Gray). Boring I know, but the R34 sedan (to me) really shows off it's boat-ness when you paint it in a bright colour like bayside blue or white or whatever else. I do have a fondness for AR2 Nissan Red, but decided against that because it'll have pretty odd contrast to random bits unpainted (like engine bay, bits of trim etc, and maybe it'll fade). And people will always fkin comment on AR2. Everything remains super dusty. I have tracking numbers for the new heads, as well as some Improved Racing goodies, but they probably will be a next year thing by the time they end up on the car. I did some maths on the heads and I know why nobody goes to this extent in Australia, because it's really not worth it, given I could have just CNC'ed my current heads, bought a FAST102/TB and used my current rocker/spring/cam combination and get a 383 stroker (or stroked a 6.0 GenIV bottom end to 6.6L) built for the same price of just the setup in the mail/on the floor here. Or I could have bought a LS3 and a Drysump system. And then have a complete engine to sell. Oh well
    • weikleenget
      R32 GTR clutch master cylinder adapters

      By weikleenget · Posted

      We just disconnected the vacuum line if I remember correctly, booster is still there. Is there a rebuild solution for the booster or a different adapter that will work for GTR chassis?
    • Duncan
      R32 GTR clutch master cylinder adapters

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah 4wd (boosted) has a recess in the firewall for the booster, and 2wd is flat - the example in the link shows the flat surface. When you deleted the booster, did you just attach the factory slave cylinder directly to the recess in the firewall with no adaption?  
    • GTSBoy
      Alpha omega racing bracket

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes, but no. You need to keep the mating surfaces bare (ie the flat faces where the caliper and upright pads touch the dogbone) and also the internal threads will remain bare (unless there are no internal threads - do they use nuts on all the bolts?). So you can slow down obvious external corrosion, but not all of it. Anodising would be required to provide decent protection to the alloy, but I'm not actually sure if you should anodise something that is all about the strength. Anodising does reduce strength significantly. Like, up to 50% on some alloys for high thickness coating.
×
×
  • Create New...