Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i need a place or someone who knows what they are doing and have done the installs before properly!

i have these to be installed:

- 4 shocks and springs

- tie rods and ends

- hicas lock bar (and disable hicas bulb if it comes on)

- will need alignment

i just want someone experienced with skylines as i'm more worried about the hicas bar being properly installed as i have heard so many stories of people ending up with hard steering or no power steering at all. also the fact that i just have the bar and bolts and nothing else needed to reroute the power steering fluid or whatever you gotta do.

also when this is all done will need a alignment as i imagine the alignment will be shite.

anyone know a place or someone in the western suburbs that can do these for a decent price?

thanks.

jake

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/227605-r32-suspension-mods-install/
Share on other sites

+1 for the hicas bar...were did you get yours from jake? (the bar how much?) maybe for suspension go jax across the road from target old geelong road i got my front castor bushes done there..

oh yeh how much they charge man?

got the hicas bar from ebay for like $80 but its jsut the bar itself and the nuts and bolts.

some places sell a complete kit with hoses and everything you need to install it properly but cheapest i seen was $150. which actually isn't too bad.

oh yeh how much they charge man?

got the hicas bar from ebay for like $80 but its jsut the bar itself and the nuts and bolts.

some places sell a complete kit with hoses and everything you need to install it properly but cheapest i seen was $150. which actually isn't too bad.

yeah ill buy mine of ebay too the hicas lines and everything you just pull it all out dont ya thers a thread on diu ....i brought my own bushes that was $60 then jax charged me $80 for 1 hour labour..then supose to do inlignment but i didnt.. good luck

Careful with the bars... there are some dodgy lockbars getting around that crack/stress around the welds.

Have a good inspection of it before putting it on, especially painted ones that attempt to cover it up :D

I've heard of a few cracked ones lately so must be semi-recent or people are taking a while to realise

Careful with the bars... there are some dodgy lockbars getting around that crack/stress around the welds.

Have a good inspection of it before putting it on, especially painted ones that attempt to cover it up :D

I've heard of a few cracked ones lately so must be semi-recent or people are taking a while to realise

might buy mine from isc performace on nissansilvia then thanks for the heads up..

For any suspension work, id reccomend Chris at Centreline Suspension in Thomastown highly! My skyline and previous car have gone to them, as well as about 5 of my mates cars and everyone has been 100% happy with their work.

yep agreed.. Chris is great, I have no issues with any of his work and trust them with the cars completely, they're very careful with the cars, no fanging it around half of melb or anything unlike some places.

They've been in the racing industry for years, so he has great advice too.

And yes you will definately need an alignment

UAS also have some hicas bars in chromoly.. or u can try sending a PM to GTRGeoff but I'm not sure if he is still selling them, I'll have to ask him.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As I implied in my post, I have NO idea what the were. But in case I didn't make it clear, the way they performed was brilliant; whatever the brand was. I think it was the compound that made the difference. And if they were Bendix, then sign me up, I want another set. I did drive down mount Ousley (just outside of the Gong) a few times, and they showed no untowards performance.   Its not the low dust that I am looking for NOW. At the time I needed low dust, but now I have no issues with dust but want the initial/early bite of the pads that were used. Yeah, the early cold squeal may of been due to a missing shim or such.  And to repeat, its not the low dust I am seeking, its the initial bite of the pads and increase in bite as  the warmed up during each breaking. As soon as I let off, I don't remember the breaks being extra sticky if I used them again soon after. But I also did not test that theory.   Thanks for the recommendation, But I would prefer to choose something specifically with the behaviour I described.   I assume that they didn't use the default compound off the shelf, as we discussed the dust issue at length. And the early squeal when cold, I have seen the sound is more of an issue with some pad compounds. Mostly ceramic, which also are said to produce less dust.
    • Well, in 2007 he must have been charging about $1800 an hour. He only looked at the car for 5 minutes. And another 4 to write the report wrong, and another minute to correct it. Mind you, this was for a car that was: Stock engine, fmic (hole in drivers guard), all alloy intake and custom air box, 3 inch turbo back exhaust, lowered, and a set of 17" Advans (255/40/17 rear and 235/45/17 front). It was nothing crazy. The blue slipper wanted the "hole in the guard" engineered. But that was because he got the shits that I wouldn't "relocate the battery from the boot, back to the factory position in the engine bay"... In an R33 GTST...     Also for emissions, E85, and don't go wild on timing. It's amazing how the closer you get ignition timing towards max torque, the last couple of degrees really throw NOx counts right up. And for the huge increase in emissions, it's only a small increase in torque.
    • He'll be looking down and swearing about "the damn apprentice" for trying to convince Duncan to use percussive maintenance... 😛  
    • I swear at my GKTech ones every time I have to take them apart and replace a spherical. But I wouldn't swap them for anything else. They absolutely slay every other option, at least in terms of how they actually work. You sure you don't want to live with bearings? I mean, they don't have "ball bearings". They are rod ends and sphericals throughout. Tough as nuts, even though I have found more than one way to wear them out.
    • From when I was looking at getting the 86 engineered for the turbo, the joint said to put in a few euro 5 or 6 cats, then tune the car on a nice clean E85 tune When I was looking at a turbo for the MX5, it was basically the same thing, a couple of cats and a nice clean tune Although, it will depend on the year of the Jeep IRT emmisions standards required, and what mods are done, especially if it has a newer engine installed that requires a higher Euro
×
×
  • Create New...