Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone,

Just got the engine for r33skizza in from the mainland however it has no flywheel and we really need one as his old flywheel happens to have a wavy pattern in it when running your fingers out from the center. So if anyone knows where we can get one from fairly soon as the engine needs to be back in the car and be ready to be tuned before next weekend.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/227675-wtb-urgently-rb25-manual-flywheel/
Share on other sites

Hey everyone,

Just got the engine for r33skizza in from the mainland however it has no flywheel and we really need one as his old flywheel happens to have a wavy pattern in it when running your fingers out from the center. So if anyone knows where we can get one from fairly soon as the engine needs to be back in the car and be ready to be tuned before next weekend.

Cheers

Just get it machined, any engineering place with a lathe can do it.

Just get it machined, any engineering place with a lathe can do it.

the problem with it was it had been light weightened and machined in the past and it looked way to thin to be re machined especially after seeing the heat marks through it.

thanks gesty but we picked up an rb30 one today. its done the job nicely in and running.

shouldn't you be watching drift videos or something damo

no we watched how it was done then went and did a bit in the rain. blew a cooler pipe off (thanks pete) had to get the girls to bring out the commo full of tools, did a bit more then went home. clutch feels good car feels strong and it hardly reads on the knock o meter.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...