Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Guest Robo's

Searched the internet last night in trying to find some results in any performance gain, but couldnt find anything in comparison with a dyno with any gain!!

Yes the theory sounds right, and a good example was, "hot oil flows quicker then cold oil" which was used as a reference to exhaust gases.

But i was looking for an actual, real to life gain, and couldnt find anything.

Originally posted by Robo's

But i was looking for an actual, real to life gain, and couldnt find anything.

That would be great.

If someone can post some before/after dyno results of the non/heat wrapped or even some before/after temps it sounds like a cheap effective modification.

When you guys say it makes the turbo spool quicker are you talking 100-200rpm or 500-700rpm ?

i had the same problem, changed my dump/front.........

if you want some real life proof: before i put the tape on i could smell burning plastic all the time and id lift the hood and it would be as hot as **** under there, and after i put on the tape the burning smell went away and it is no where near as hot under there anymore..

good idea if you ask me :D

The biggest thing I'd be concerned about is the exhaust rusting from beneath the heat wrap because of condensation. Can you get your exhaust painted/coated with heat resistant stuff while it's on the car? And then put the thermal wrap on top of that.

Although, my exhaust is stainless anyway, would that be resistant enough to corrosion?

Exhaust wrap is good stuff in my experience. When coating headers, the headers would still get hot and I would imagine you'd still burn yourself if you were working in the engine bay after the engine was running. The wrap on my exhaust previously allowed me to work in the engine bay after the engine was running if I had to with minimal worries. You could even touch the manifolds themselves without burning your hands - of course you couldn't leave them there very long!

I find it interesting that most Japanese tuning houses and drag cars use header wrap.....

GTS-t VSPEC, a guy in these forums (sorry I forget who) had his exhaust rust right through from beneath his heat wrap. He didn't say if he had mild or stainless though I think.

The problem is not condensation while driving obviously, but after you park and it cools down. It probably won't be a *major* problem if the car is garaged but heat wrap being cloth and therefore porous, it will absorb small amounts of water from the air especially when it has the cold metal underneath to help the condensation in the first place.

Anyway I'm pretty sure stainless will be ok. It's not rustproof, but it's rust resistant which is probably enough. It may be my biggest concern but it's probably not a major one :P

Tomeastlake81, so you can heat wrap the exhaust manifold too? How do you do that?

There is a little theory floating around about the increase in performance from coating and wrapping the dump pipe.

My thoughts are that as a hp modification its not worthwhile. Full stop. The theory about exhaust gases etc is correct, but if coating/wrapping was going to make a measureable performance gain then it is most likely going to be seen if done to an exhasut manifold. And then even most likely on a stressed race engine more then a road car.

But again i see the main reason for coating exhaust parts is in the search to drop underbonnet temps. There is numerous reasons alone why we should be trying to drop underbonnet temps. If you want performance increase then consider about every 4deg C at the inlet is worth approx 1% of engine power.

Has anyone ceramic coated the standard manifold ? Mine is pretty rusty and would require a bit of work to get it nice I guess - But I like the idea - Then ceramic coat the dump plus thermal wrap it !

The stock manifold is cast and is poorly designed. I wouldn't waste the money on it. Doing the dump then thermal wrapping it make sense though.

The other option is to have the manifold heat sheild ceramic coated, they would reduce the amount on heat radiated into the engine bay from the manifold.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I started with the above in my head too, and I might be reading / thinking about what they want wrong, which is why I complicated it a bit further. Purpose I'm seeing is for the corner indicator to be on with headlights, and then if the indicator turns on it can still flash. The relay part above I can see working as required, except in the case of headlight is on, and indicator is on. The change over relay you've wired in would get signal from the indicator, and as it flashes would give power to the globe from the indicator, but as it flashes off, power comes from the headlight, which would cause the indicator to be constantly on when headlight is on, even while indicator change over is flashing. That is unless we don't care if it flashes or not if the headlight is on? I guess that's an OP clarification.
    • HI, Ive got an r34 gtt sedan A/T. The instrument cluster went out and I replaced it with another A/T everything visually looks the same and all the gauges work now with the exception of the speedometer and odometer. The speedo will stay pinned at zero until I'm going about 55kmh and then it'll say Im going about 5kmh. my odometer seems to be tracking at about a 1/10 of what it should. If I go 1km it'll say I've only gone 0.01. Appreciate any and all help. Ive tried searching through the forums reddit and a local fb group. The only info I think I've found is that some cars didnt come equipped with TCS (mind is) and the clusters may be different between those? I've also installed a brand new VSS and no joy obviously. TIA. 
    • what speedo healer did you use?  
    • Certainly. It is probably broken under the wire style clamp. At least that one is easier to get at than the front one.   Sounds like it isn't a major leak, I'd start with backing off the the water feed and return banjos into the turbos half a turn then tightening properly. Hardlines can still crack over time, either in the tube (particularly when turbos are changed if the banjo is siezed in the the tube) or at the brazed joins between the lines and the banjo fittings. A coolant system pressure test will reveal all. BTW you'd be able to get a sump without exchange, it will just cost more as they will have to source another stock one for the next customer. If you want to address the sump a much better option is something like this https://www.hioctanedirect.com/hi-octane-racing-sump-extension-nissan-rb26 that you weld in locally (and add the oil return fittings at the same time)
    • Pretty sure you are thinking of the throwout bearing there (which you should change when you change your clutch), when they are worn they will get quieter if you put your foot on the clutch. An input shaft bearing is turning/noisy at all times.
×
×
  • Create New...