Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I dont know if this post has been done before but basically I want to know who tuned your car.

Please include:

MODS

Power Figure

Price

ECU (PFC, Microtech ect)

Service - Was it good or bad?

Please also PM if you have any bad info on tunners or people I shouldn't use.

I want to book my car in to get tuned. Its an RB25DET with Power fc, and bolt on mods.

Kind regards

Sam Murray

P.S if this a repost some on can slap me and point me to the original post that would be awsome! I had a look but couldn't find it for Tas.

Edited by sam.murray
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/228041-who-tuned-your-car/
Share on other sites

Dr Drift, R31 RB25det

MODS; TD06, injectors, exhaust, CAI, fuel pump.

Power Figure; 240 rwkw @ 13 psi, 255 rwkw @ 15.5 psi, 265 rwkw @ 19 psi

Price; $650.00

ECU; Factory Nissan R32 GTS-T

Service; Fantastic!!

Pro Automotive, R34 GT-T

MODS; FMIC, injectors, exhaust, CAI, fuel pump.

Power Figure; 210 rwkw @ 13 psi

Price; $300.00

ECU; Power FC

Service; Excellent!

Boost Automotive, R32 GT-R

MODS: HKS GT2530's, intercooler, exhaust.

Power Figure: 311rwkw @ 1.1bar

Price: $850 from mem (that included Plugs, Oil and wheel bearings)

ECU: Power FC

Service: Excellent

Boost Automotive, R33 GT-R N1

MODS: exhaust.

Power Figure: 323rwkw @ 1.3bar

Price: can't remember

ECU: Power FC

Service: Excellent

Andrew at Pro Automotive is very good and cannot recommend enough. He will provide a safe tune that you do not need to worry about.

Pro Automotive, R32 GT-R VS-II (2005)

MODS: Exhaust, N1 Turbos, Nismo fuel reg, K&N panel filter, 95RON PULP

Power Figure: 255rwkw @ 16psi (Dyno Logic)

ECU: Mines VX-Rom

Service: Excellent

Car Performance: Consistant fifth position on most stages at Rallye Burnie that year

Pro Automotive, R32 GTS-t (2004)

MODS: Exhaust, FMIC, 98RON PULP

Power Figure: 177rwkw @ 17psi (Dyno Logic)

ECU: Unichip

Service: Excellent

Car performance: low 62s at Symmons

Howell Automotive, S14 (2003)

MODS: Exhaust, HKS pod filter, fuel reg, 95RON PULP

Power Figure: 180rwkw @ 17psi (Dyno Dynamics), but struggled to show more than 150 on Pro Automotive Dyno Logic dyno

ECU: Unichip

Service: Excellent

Car performance: low 63s at Basky

R32 GTS-t - RB20

MODS: TD-06 20g l2 kit with 10cm rear, 3" dump, FMIC, stock cat back/injectors/afm, 95RON

Power Figure: 205rwk @ 14psi

Price: $650

ECU: remapped Central 20

Service: Couldn't complain at the time

Im currently looking at tuning option for old girl again with the new set up and after talking with Kuc he was not only extremely helpful but also came straight out and said that i should have a look around at other tuners as he didn't feel he could get the best out of my set up.

Even after that he has still taken the time to answer questions that i've had so its a big :) for me to Pro Automotive

I had my 1600 (FJ20) tuned by Kuc and the stanza (Z18) was tuned by Griffo using Kuc's dyno :)

Boost Automotive R33 RB25det

MODS, 3in turbo back exhaust, front mount, fuel reg, fuel pump, Greddy plenum, pod,

Power Figure 214km @ 10psi

Price bit over $500

ECU Power FC

Service - as posted in a thread last year, was not happy with the service at all, quoted $300 to adjust the map as it already had been tuned. they went ahead and put iridium plugs in it and removed some of the silicon hoses and put heather hose there instead.

have sent several cars down to Kutsie at pro automotive and am very happy withthe results. he's very good with comunication and will talk to u about what you want to use the car for etc.

Pro Automotive;

MODS; Fmic, Hks pro s 2835 turbo, injectors, cams, plenum, fuel pump

Power Figure; 228 rwkw @ 15 psi,

Price; carn't remember

ECU; power fc

Service; ok. I would never bag him out, there is plenty of people out there who have got great results.I just didn't get the result I wanted.

Dr Drift

MODS; Fmic, Hks pro s 2835 turbo, injectors, cams, plenum, fuel pump

Power Figure; 260 rwkw @ 15 psi

Price; $150.00

ECU; Power FC

Service; Sam only had mine on the dyno for an hour, I didn't want to go above 260rwkw as i don't want to risk the standard bottom end. very happy with his service.

Edited by woolls

Boost Automotive;

MODS; Fmic, VG30turbo, injectors, fuel pump, A/MDump pipe, Elec boost cont, Pwr Fc

Power Figure; 248 rwkw @ 15 psi,

Price; think it was about $430

ECU; power fc

Service; ummm, not bagging, but lacks costomer service skills at times.

Boost Automotive;

MODS; Fmic, twin T3/T4 turbos, 1000cc injectors, cams, plenum

Power Figure; 399 rwkw @ 17 psi,

Price; Think it was about $400

ECU; Haltech E11v2

Service; great.

This was my old RB25 and will take the new setup to him also. That is all the same goodies on a 25/30

Well theres only a few choices in tassy realy. and if you read every thing on the net they all have strong positives and negatives.

i recently took my car to boost

MODS: FMIC, gtr injectors, r34 turbo, good dump pipe and 3" straight through exhaust. runing on and rb25de

power: 194rwkw on 10psi but detuned for a slipping clutch

Price: $420 including iridiums

ECU: power FC

Service: i was happy with the service but and there is always a but it cost nearly doubble what i was advised (not quoted) would have been close bar the iridums

i was very happy with the feed back about my motor and alike. ive been told this isnt a strong point with boost but i was happy.

i am unsure if i will try some where elce next time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Updating results following our SR20det project. Data collected form improves future turbocharger making and high flowing services. So far differences between G and GT series turbine wheels, we are in the process of making a new turbine, the aim is for better mid top range flow without gain too much lag.  Result is back to back comparison of G25-660 and GTX2867 spec turbochargers on the same car, nothing changed apart from turbocharger. Both tuned to knock limit from pump 98 fuel (US Ron93). GTX2867 was about 400RPM more responsive making 255rwkws while G25-660 made 17 extra Kws with wider spread of torque after 4500RPM finishing off at 272rwkws.  
    • @GTSBoy i tried to jumper the wires and got the steering wheel light to come on which is right under the gear indication but that still doesnt come on.  Can it be an issue with my cluster?
    • Given that you have seen the dash indicator work briefly, then it would seem like you have a simple wiring problem. What happens when you simply jumper the wires on the "steering wheel switch"?
    • Yesterday's day in review: All the wiring to the lights up the front how I want it, is ran, terminated, and all to length. The only lighting up front I haven't finished is the side indicators, as I need to get to the partly cutup factory loom, and find the plugs for them. Interesting note, the side indicators use the exact same plug that's in the doors for something else that I don't remember what it is... So that plug better be careful...   Power steering solenoid, on the R33 is variable, and from memory PWM. The Ford's control from the docs I have so far, is it's just a on or off control. So I'm not sure it's what I want, and in any case, power steering running, but at its heaviest (solenoid off) is likely what I'll want anyway, so I'm not yet touching it at all. All the wiring I can complete so far, is done. There are 3 wires I need to make a plug for at the ECU, and these are just for the vehicle speed sensor, of which I need to get a T5 from an AU, so I can use its output that has the speed sensor on it. (My car doesn't have ABS, otherwise I'd set it up to use one of the ring gears on that). I need to buy new headlight globes and front parker globes, otherwise I could show photos of lights working. Current fuel lines in and out on this motor are "5/16". I'll order hardline, and some AN fittings for that, and I just need to 100% check fuel line size at the tank end, to get the ends for it. I'm also looking at a few options for the banjo bolts to AN fittings for the power steering rack. I'll pull the reservoir off the Barras PS pump. There's an off the shelf fitting for that pump for a -10 AN feed, and it'll use a 16mm to dash -6 an outlet to feed the rack. I'll be making my own power steering reservoir, I'm going through the thought process at the moment of how I'll run the baffles, and I need to research another idea for it too.
    • Two inlet runners changes the engines characteristics requiring less fuel to make torque at different points in the rev range. The smaller diameter inlet runners on the DET increases air flow speed, which improves atomisation of fuel, particularly in low load/idle for better burn, and in specific areas of the engine, (areas you would use when driving normally) increases the efficiency. All of those items change how efficient the engine is at different speeds. The changes on the neo help slightly to improve emissions where it matters. The overall improvements won't be the likes of going from an engine built in the 70s to an engine built in the 2000s, it's just a small step. But still leaves it the RB with the best chance of improvement.   As for your comment about the whole using a cat to not need to worry about those gases. Two things, no system is 100% perfect. It won't eliminate everything. So reduce the quantity you put into it, you still reduce the output. Two, make that system do less work, and it's likely to survive a little bit longer. Funnily enough to, one trick employed to get cats up to temp, AND to drastically reduce emissions before they get up to temp, is to reduce ignition timing.
×
×
  • Create New...