Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I remember marshalling that year, we had a different season each day, and on the Sunday about half the track side workers came down with food poisoning midway through the GP due to dodgy eggs in the sandwiches.

Super stuff Stu. Well deserved.

And even though he won't read it - fantastic job by Mr Perry over the years. The Targa Rallies truely are some of the great events available for non-professional motorsport lovers in this country, and their current success are largely thanks to him.

Hello Targa guys,

I am considering building a car and entering Targa Adelaide in 2014.
I am having trouble interpreting some of the rules, who would be the best person to talk to about my queries to gain some clarification?
Mainly regarding the modifications to body work and wheels.

For anyone here, I am wondering, If my car is an R32 GTS-T, would an R32 GTR front not be allowed?
Similarly, if I am allowed 2" more width and 2" more diameter in my wheels, would that mean:

I am allowed a maximum of 18" diameter and 8.5" width? Coming from 16x6.5" stock wheel?

Or, do I base my measurements from any of the R32 models, e.g. GTR?

Thank you for your help,

Anthony.

Hey Anthony,

best bet is to get in touch with the Targa tech people. Previously it was Stuart Benson however as per posts above he is now running the show :)

I would imagine there are details on the website.

Re the rules, i think you have to consider what it is being entered as. If you are entering it as a R32 GTST, then your assumptions on modifications need to be based around that car and not the 32 GTR. so on the wheels you are spot on. +2" in each direction over standard. (18x8.5 based on your info provided)

Re the front bar, I woudl expect it has to be GTST parts not GTR.

But there are some far more experienced datsun campaigners on here that can shine more light on it for you.......that exact car in fact.

Hey Anthony,

best bet is to get in touch with the Targa tech people. Previously it was Stuart Benson however as per posts above he is now running the show :)

I would imagine there are details on the website.

Re the rules, i think you have to consider what it is being entered as. If you are entering it as a R32 GTST, then your assumptions on modifications need to be based around that car and not the 32 GTR. so on the wheels you are spot on. +2" in each direction over standard. (18x8.5 based on your info provided)

Re the front bar, I woudl expect it has to be GTST parts not GTR.

But there are some far more experienced datsun campaigners on here that can shine more light on it for you.......that exact car in fact.

Hello Darkside,

Thanks for your help. From what I can interpret from the rules (I downloaded the technical rules from the Targa website) you are correct.

It would have to be a standard R32 GTS-T front bar etc, wheels, as you say, 18"x8.5" maximum.

There are a lot of rules to interpret! I am looking at everything, weighing up the costs and considering building a car in time for Targa Adelaide 2014.

I'll be sure to keep reading through this thread for information - I'm pretty lost in relation to braking and suspension setup and would I would 'need' for this type of racing.

Thanks,

Anthony.

You can run any body kit from a model run (R32 in this case) under the option rules. So you can run GT-R front bar, bonnet, and rear wing. Guards have to be Gtst as the GT-R guards are wider.

You can run upto 18x8 (pretty sure the stock rims are 16x6), but I run 17x8 rims cause i'm a jew. BUT you can also run factory option wheel sizes... which bump it up to 18x9, as you could option Nismo 18x9 wheels on Skylines back in the day.

^^^^ There ya go Anthony. One of the GTST gurus I had in mind. :) I am sure if ask any of your questions here the guys that have actually built and raced GTST's will have some great info for you.

My personal view on brakes is get the best you can afford. I tend to sway towards bigger brakes as my view is they give you better feel and a better ability to modulate on the threshold of locking up. Added benefit is the resistance to fade and more stopping power, Some of the intense targa stages can really give your brakes a workout so they need to be decent. Have been down the path of upgrading standard brakes with braided lines, ducting, trick rotors and pads etc, but still got a better result out of ditching it all and putting 6 pot alcons on. No doubt there are upgrades like bolting later model brembos on to the earlier stuff that would be a good budget upgrade.

I sadly am not a nissan guy (would love a 34GTR but cant afford to race one) and am an imposter here, so take everything I say with a pinch of salt. :)

edit.... oh and re suspension, this is one area I learnt the hard way in that you can never spend enough on the right coilovers. Once you have had a taste of tarmac rally and see how hard your suspension works over the less than perfect roads, you can see why the fast guys spend big on the suspenders. Makes a big difference to feeling comfortable at high speed over the bumps, which will naturally lead to you being more comfortable to push harder. Again i am sure the guys here will be able to lay out the variously priced options.

At the end of the day we are all on budgets. You just try to build the best toy you can with the money you have.

Edited by Darkside

You can run any body kit from a model run (R32 in this case) under the option rules. So you can run GT-R front bar, bonnet, and rear wing. Guards have to be Gtst as the GT-R guards are wider.

You can run upto 18x8 (pretty sure the stock rims are 16x6), but I run 17x8 rims cause i'm a jew. BUT you can also run factory option wheel sizes... which bump it up to 18x9, as you could option Nismo 18x9 wheels on Skylines back in the day.

That's great, thanks for your help mate. I have read your build thread a few times before, but now I am reading it again with a different view on things. 17x8" wheels would be the go.

^^^^ There ya go Anthony. One of the GTST gurus I had in mind. :) I am sure if ask any of your questions here the guys that have actually built and raced GTST's will have some great info for you.

My personal view on brakes is get the best you can afford. I tend to sway towards bigger brakes as my view is they give you better feel and a better ability to modulate on the threshold of locking up. Added benefit is the resistance to fade and more stopping power, Some of the intense targa stages can really give your brakes a workout so they need to be decent. Have been down the path of upgrading standard brakes with braided lines, ducting, trick rotors and pads etc, but still got a better result out of ditching it all and putting 6 pot alcons on. No doubt there are upgrades like bolting later model brembos on to the earlier stuff that would be a good budget upgrade.

I sadly am not a nissan guy (would love a 34GTR but cant afford to race one) and am an imposter here, so take everything I say with a pinch of salt. :)

edit.... oh and re suspension, this is one area I learnt the hard way in that you can never spend enough on the right coilovers. Once you have had a taste of tarmac rally and see how hard your suspension works over the less than perfect roads, you can see why the fast guys spend big on the suspenders. Makes a big difference to feeling comfortable at high speed over the bumps, which will naturally lead to you being more comfortable to push harder. Again i am sure the guys here will be able to lay out the variously priced options.

At the end of the day we are all on budgets. You just try to build the best toy you can with the money you have.

Thank you for your help!
I have done some hill climb sort of stuff before and drifting, but I have never built a car/modified a car with this sort of 'competition' driving in mind, so I am not sure what sort of brakes would be required (and what these might cost) similar again with suspension.
I have been looking at R33 GTR Brembo, these seemed to be well priced and take a 324x32mm rotor. I thought perhaps with good rotors/pads/fluid these might be up to the task. From there, I'm not sure. I need to research a LOT!
I will keep reading through the build threads in the motorsport section and try to pick up ideas, and I'll keep talking to as many people as I can.
Thanks for your help guys.

That's great, thanks for your help mate. I have read your build thread a few times before, but now I am reading it again with a different view on things. 17x8" wheels would be the go.

Thank you for your help!
I have done some hill climb sort of stuff before and drifting, but I have never built a car/modified a car with this sort of 'competition' driving in mind, so I am not sure what sort of brakes would be required (and what these might cost) similar again with suspension.
I have been looking at R33 GTR Brembo, these seemed to be well priced and take a 324x32mm rotor. I thought perhaps with good rotors/pads/fluid these might be up to the task. From there, I'm not sure. I need to research a LOT!

Buy Woosters car, it already has all this stuff....

Spotters fee coming my way!!!!!!

edit.... oh and re suspension, this is one area I learnt the hard way in that you can never spend enough on the right coilovers. Once you have had a taste of tarmac rally and see how hard your suspension works over the less than perfect roads, you can see why the fast guys spend big on the suspenders. Makes a big difference to feeling comfortable at high speed over the bumps, which will naturally lead to you being more comfortable to push harder. Again i am sure the guys here will be able to lay out the variously priced options.

What Blaise says here is spot on.

The "lightbulb" moment when you've recce'd your first rally, putting notes in about bumps 'cos you felt them in your road car, then taking those notes back out on the first stage 'cos the remote canister coilovers sucked 'em up.

Work out what you can afford to pay for suspension, then buy the ones that cost double...on credit...like a boss! :yes: You'll never regret it :)

Another noob question..

I know the engine you use for must remain the same (For Targa Adeliade/Tas etc)

So R32 GTS-T must be RB20DET

Apparently the late R32 came with RB25 motor, I haven't found any proof of this yet (4 door?)

Basically, I'm asking is there any way to use RB25DET engine in R32 GTS-T, or just no way possible?
Cheers again.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • to fix the voltage drop issue I swapped out the old 150amp alternator which turns out is a brand known for having issues and replaced it with the black 180amp alternator beside it 
    • For anyone interested, the Way Back Machine has that Japanese website archived with pictures, etc: https://web.archive.org/web/20051023225805fw_/http://www.a31cefiro.com/air_con.htm "Simply swapping the wiring of the harness will not allow it to function properly. For the outdoor air sensor and sunlight sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN1-11 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. For the indoor air sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN2-3 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. The connector PIN numbers listed here are the genuine A31 PIN numbers. To avoid incorrect wiring, check with a tester before wiring. Also, disconnect the wiring in a location close to the sensor. The disconnected harness side wiring will not be used, so be sure to insulate it." Wish someone sold a conversion harness to just plug-and-play a Kouki 180sx digital climate control into C33/A31. I'm decent with wiring but feeling kinda lazy about taking this on. Edit: Did some more digging and found a helpful Minkara blog post about the conversion as well: https://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/1831116/car/1360568/2284209/note.aspx "After installation is complete or the battery is replaced, you need to go into self-diagnosis mode and set the internal air recirculation. The way to do it is to "hold OFF with the key on for more than 5 seconds, set the number to 5, then press 卍→C." ↑↑↑It probably won't make sense unless you actually try it (・∀・)." Lol wtf
    • Maybe SAUNSW could see howany members would do a motorkhana day if Schofield's is still available for a reasonable price...
    • Skip the concrete, we just need to smooth a field. Mark knows how to drive a grader Duncan   I reckon 100x100 flat area for skid pan style, and then some sort tracks for rally... Duncan's already got a rally car on the premises to...
    • Well, yeah, the RB26 is definitely that far off the mark. From a pure technology point of view it is closer to the engines of the 60s than it is to the engines of the last 10 years. There is absolutely nothing special about an RB26 that wasn't present in engines going all the way back to the 60s, except probably the four valve head. The bottom end is just bog standard Japanese stuff. The head is nothing special. Celicas in the 70s were the same thing, in 4cyl 2 valve form. The ITBs are nothing special when you consider that the same Celicas had twin Solexes on them, and so had throttle plates in the exact same place. There's no variable valve timing, no variable inlet manifold, which even other RBs had either before the 26 came out or shortly afterward. The ECU is pretty rude and crude. The only things it has going for it are that the physical structure was pretty bloody tough for a mass produced engine, the twin-turbos and ITBs made for a bit of uniqueness against the competition (and even Toyota were ahead on the twin turbs thing, weren't they?) and the electronic controls and measuring devices (ie, AFMs, CAS, etc) were good enough to make it run well. Oh, and it sounds better than almost anything else, ever. The VR38 is absolutely halfway between the RB generation and the current generation, so it definitely has a massive increase in the sophistication of the electronics, allowing for a lot more dynamic optimisation of mapping. Then there's things like metal treatments and other coatings on things, adoption of variable cam stuff, and a bunch of other little improvements that mean it has to be a better thing than the RB26. But I otherwise agree with you that it is approximately the same thing as a 26. But, skip forward another 10 years from that engine and then the things that I mentioned in previous post come out to play. High compression, massively sophisticated computers, direct injection, clever measuring sensors, etc etc. They are the real difference between trying to make big power with a 26 and trying to make big power with a S/B50/54 (or whatever the preferred BMW engine of the week is).
×
×
  • Create New...