Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

wheels of choice for a 32/33/34 gtr in targa with bigger brakes?

I have alcon's (365mm) and heard nightmares of finding wheels that fit over the caliper

obviously would have to be 10" wide or less to be legal. no idea what to do with my weds 10.5" rims.

We ran the 365 Alcon package under 34 wheels, you can see there was some issues with foreign object clearance (always is with big brakes and rallies) but they cheared fine.

Alcon.jpg

Wheel is dependant on whether it is a 32, 33, or 34, as they obviously all had differing sizes from factory.

The supp regs clearly state for Early Modern;

Early Modern & All Classic: Wheel diameters may be varied by a maximum of plus or minus 2” and wheel width varied up to 2” from the standard dimensions. Classic vehicles may only increase sizes up to maximum of 18 x 9 inches.

So, R32= 18x10's

R33 = 19 x 10.5

R34 = 20 x 11 (full hectic)

Edited by Marlin

Wheel is dependant on whether it is a 32, 33, or 34, as they obviously all had differing sizes from factory.

The supp regs clearly state for Early Modern;

Early Modern & All Classic: Wheel diameters may be varied by a maximum of plus or minus 2” and wheel width varied up to 2” from the standard dimensions. Classic vehicles may only increase sizes up to maximum of 18 x 9 inches.

So, R32= 18x10's

R33 = 19 x 10.5

R34 = 20 x 11 (full hectic)

marlin, R33 would be 19X11. as they had 17X9 stock.

it goes:

R32 16X8

R32 Vspec (some run as this I believe?) 17X8.5

R33 17X9

R34 18X9

so just add your 2X2 to those.

Yeah you're right Baron.... I knew that after I posted it, but you got the drift ;)

It used to be 1 + 1, We had to run 17 x 8 on my GTS-t, now we have 18 x 9 which makes me happier trying to catch the Evos (in the dry at least) :)

32 vspec was 17x8 - so 19x10 max not 10.5.

The +2" wheel width is one of the worst things about the current rules....everyone has to spend more on tyres because everyone does, and the crashes are harder.

Blaise reckons one of his biggest advantages was being able to run bigger rubber than the rest of the EMO's (he squeezed on 255 rubber onto his cars where as the others were all on 245's).

The funny thing is for me my tyre choice was the Yoki A050's and the biggest they have been making is 265's. I have a set of 10.5's and a set of 9.5's and I personally found that the A050's in 265's sat better on the 9.5's than they did on the 10.5's (where as the RE55's and DZ03's were both better on the 10.5's in a 265 tyre).

But as soon as the 295's were out I'd have been switching to them on the 10.5's as my preference.

^^^^ My gut feel on the rubber issue, was the bigger tyres gave me more rubber to wear down so hopefully longer tyre life. Made me more confidfent of getting to the end on the one set of mediums. Turned out tyre wear was definatly not an issue for me, but it is a light car with moderate linear power as opposed to the heavier GTR's and bigger HP.

But for outright pace, I did do back to back testing between 235's (what most emos run) and 255's on the same day and there was two tenths of stuff all in it. I went about 0.4sec a lap quicker at best, but also had gone from worn 235's to new 255's so not sure if most of the gain was just that I had fresher rubber. Wasnt a massive improvement, but at the same time cant be a bad thing. Most forms of motorsport if given the opportunity, tend to run the biggest rubber they can.

Greg Garwood is looking for a good tarmac prepped R32 GTR if anyone knows of one?

Yes, I've told him about Jurgenson's and I'm sure he'll follow that up. - edit - Drew doesn't wish to sell now.

Edited by Marlin

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No intention of driving the car the way it's set up now, just wanting to make sure I haven't made any mistakes along the way so that the tune can go smoothly, I don't want to waste anyone's time with stupid issues. And of course I intend to get it towed to the dyno in a completed state 😅 I have the base fuel pressure with the vacuum disconnected set at about 40psi, which I believe is at least relatively close to stock fuel pressure, maybe I'll have a fiddle with the reg and see what happens. For all I know I could be wasting my time with this and I should just plumb it in and see what the tuner reckons. I just find it a bit strange that it seems to be under so much load just free revving, but maybe that's just a result of the turbo slowing down the exhaust gasses and making a restriction in the flow, with no boost to compensate.
    • The boy just hit up google translate and it worked a treat, he said step one was "please urinate with precision and elegance", he then sent me the correct translation  I get some new loctite for the small fixtures tomorrow and get some "dort" going after that 🤣
    • Right, so is the fuel pressure the same as it was previously? If not, well, it's not going to work well. I can understand the theory I assume you are going for, which is: "Run it N/A, and if I have the original AFM, and same amount of fuel and intake air as previously, the fact there's a turbo in my exhaust should still make it run" Which it... might? Provided you don't actually change how much air or fuel is going into the car.. or getting out. But if you have changed that, all bets are off. What is the purpose to even have the car run this way? To get it to a tuner? And if the goal is to limp it to a tuner, you're still going to what - plumb up a whole intercooler system and new intake in the parking lot out front before your tune......?
    • Haha yea it's a bit of a weird setup at the moment, just wanted to make sure I sorted out any headaches before dyno day. At the moment I've changed the exhaust manifold, turbo and downpipe, 460lph fuel pump and rising rate reg as well as the previously mentioned headstuds and gasket. The nistune was already mapped for the car as it was and drove around for a few months no worries. The plan is to run flex fuel hence the big pump, which I've wired direct to the battery through a relay to avoid voltage issues.
    • Um. Was the ECU the same as the one previously there? I know R33's needed R32 GTST ECU's or other tomfoolery to run Nistune. This is such a wild setup. Most people would plumb in the turbo then not drive the car (i.e tow it to a tuner). What's actually changed since it last ran?
×
×
  • Create New...