Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

tarmac rallying should only be scary if the crew want to push harder than their event prep and talent allow... if you run your own race and don't be ambitious it’s no more dangerous than super sprinting or hillclimbing without a roll cage in my oppion.

fair comment

I definitely think it has the potential to be more rewarding but it still scares me... if only because I haven't experienced it... I guess if your new to the sport avoiding taking the 'racing line' and just driving as quickly as you feel comfortable in the centre of the road there would be plenty of margin for error... with some of the terrible driving I see on country/coastal roads I sometimes think everyday driving is more dangerous than motorsport!

there is a school of thought that blind rallies are safer as people have to "drive it as they see it" rather than trying to fully commit to corners based on their pace notes. Most of the QRC rounds are blind rallies. Or they were when I used to compete.

Hey a quick one especially for Stu I guess - I just heard on he grape vine that in 2009 all Tarmac Road Rally competitors will have to wear some form of head and neck device.

Any truth to that one?

yeah snowy hans remains highly recommended and always a good idea, but its still a 2.5k spend for a decent setup so still a little steep for most and only arc was being forced to upgrade for 09 i thought.

*sigh* - seems I need to find myself a new Nav for Targa Tas already.

It turns out James' first born's due date has moved from the begining of March to April 15th. Don't ask me how he got that one so wrong. But needless to say he's going to be unavailable now.

*sigh* - seems I need to find myself a new Nav for Targa Tas already.

It turns out James' first born's due date has moved from the begining of March to April 15th. Don't ask me how he got that one so wrong. But needless to say he's going to be unavailable now.

Get onto Timmy mate....... he sux, so he's probably available :D

Yep dead right benny, i make cars roll and stuff... but im interested Snowy

Thanks boys. But I think I have found a replacement should James decide its a no-go, but I will try and get everything sorted out in the next few days.

Appreciate the offer though Tim and should further complications arrise I'll be in contact.

But you'll be pleased to know Tim that my Nav just completed his first rally in the right manner.

n770058744_1562801_9422.jpg

No worries Andrew,

On that note if anyone needs a Nav for Targa, let me know. I'd love to do it again, probably in a better position to do it now than I was this year.

Preferably in something quick/Modern... say a 34 N1 :P but im not fussy at all :(

Plus my sister is in management at the Federal group so I get a good rate at all their hotels/resorts.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
×
×
  • Create New...