Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok good stuff guys! I'm considering doing the "Tasmanian Tarmac Challenge" in October if I can get the new car sorted out, Mt Buller if funds/time allow, and really aiming towards Targa Tasmania again next year in April. Rally Tasmania in February is always a great warmup for Targa Tasmania, but I just can't afford to do them all, time or money wise :ermm:

Makes me think actually, I better get on a diet so the poor lil' RB20 can drag me up the hills. Nah, easier to get co-driver whore Timmay to drop down to a sparrow-like 55kg I reckon. :D

Wow thanks for setting me a target now!

Greetings Snowman + friends.

I'm hoping to do Targa rookie next year also, so that probably means no Buller/Lake Mountain this year :D

I did scrutineering school last weekend. If you guys are wanting official help at your events, please PM me...

Cheers,

Scott.

If anyone has questions about tarmac rally eligibility or safety etc I'm the Technical Manager for Targa Tasmania so feel free to ask as its really not that hard to get a car together.

I used to race and rally various Nissan's including 200SX, R32 GTS-t and R32 GT-R... I navigate in an Integra Type R and currently building an RX7 SP so not just another useless administrator... well hopefully not that useless anyway!

If anyone has questions about tarmac rally eligibility or safety etc I'm the Technical Manager for Targa Tasmania so feel free to ask as its really not that hard to get a car together.

What’s the ruling on dry carbon panels and 3mm lexan/plexi glass windows on the doors, rear quarters and rear window?

Depends on the car really...

No good for GTR on either point though. On GTSt the lexan works, but the windows that open need to remain functional and usually scratches like hell.

Any bolt-on panel could be swapped on GTSt for CF, but doors need to remain metal.

CF on the GTR only works if its a Nissan option (eg Nismo or Autech) such as CF bonnet, undertray, wind blade.

Depends on the car really...

No good for GTR on either point though. On GTSt the lexan works, but the windows that open need to remain functional and usually scratches like hell.

Any bolt-on panel could be swapped on GTSt for CF, but doors need to remain metal.

CF on the GTR only works if its a Nissan option (eg Nismo or Autech) such as CF bonnet, undertray, wind blade.

Thanks Stuart.

I don't believe so. I am on the hunt for some dry carbon bits though. ie, gtr style bonnet, bootlid/gtr wing/gtr nismo lip spoiler. Also hunting for some gts M-spec side skirts if anyone knows of any of these things?

Now, if I can just get an RB30 hybrid ok'd I reckon I'm in with a shot.................

Dane - The GTR is classed as a faster car under the parity rules so limited in permitted mods.

GTR guards on a GTSt would be cool, but althought the material can be changed (to fibreglass or CF) basic body work must retain the same external shape as standard with the exception of some aero like GTR wings and bumpers etc.

basic body work must retain the same external shape as standard with the exception of some aero like GTR wings and bumpers etc.

Guard rolling, just the inner lip not flaring? For example, are they going to raise question over a very minor appearance chance’s as one of the cars does look different next to another Gtst..

Edited by Nismo_Boy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, solid mount Z1 diff brace is in, pretty straightforward, it picks up 3 diff hat bolts and ties them to 2 support bolts on the subframe. Pretty sure someone else on here said they had reduced axle tramp with this but mine was already pretty good for smooth wheelspin, and still is....will see you this goes over time and whether I end up with a broken rear diff hat
    • Ah yes, but the part in my hand was actually painted and fitted by me! I knew any front lip was likely to be sacrificial but I've had to fix it twice already... by the time I buy a fibreglass fixing kit, sort out sandpaper blocks, buy some fibreglass filler, body bog, spend the time and effort for a 'Greg' result... a new one being $290 seems like it's the better way to go and spray that with bedliner/raptor coat and we're all pretty again.. Would have preferred it last more than a month though. Them's the breaks I suppose.
    • I find it funny that the USA is finding out all this really really weird stuff, and people from the USA are coming here treating it like gospel, yet, all the info on solving those issues is here on these forums for the last 15 odd years... Also, I know how much heat it takes to ignite the hood lining of an R33 skyline. I worked it out myself... It also took a LOT of time, and heat for it to do it... Big single, and I needed to drive the car, so retarded the timing off to "protect it". Yeah, that was a bad move for cruising on a freeway with only 15 degrees of timing on it. That was a lesson I learned around 2009. So that's over 15 odd years ago. Aligning water and oil, that's identical for any turbo engine, it's not Japanese specific. If a shop doesn't know how to make sure the core is rotated the right way, then they shouldn't be touching any turbo engine. That's not a matter of "We haven't had Skylines for that long here"...
    • Sounds like it is rotational in the driveline. CV? Tailshaft CB? Also.....didn't you just pay to have that bit painted and put on the car?
    • Yeah, when I dialled my idle down, given how much time I spent idling at the lights in traffic on my daily commute, the effect on overall fuel consumption was absolutely noticeable.
×
×
  • Create New...