Jump to content
SAU Community

Tarmac Rallying Perpetual Thread

Marlin

By Marlin,
in Motorsport Discussion & Builds

 Share

Recommended Posts

Darkside Community Regular

Darkside

Posted
Posted

^^^ hearing you on the RSZ. Soiled my pants at TT this year thinking we had over cooked one a fraction given the confusion between the differing placement of the lead in signs... Thankfully they were obviously giving us a little bit of leeway.

My take on the Targa carnage is the same thing that caused me to have my epic fail. The repeated stages. The conditionns can change massively between runs with people cutting corners and dragging shit on. And i guess there is always the temptation to try to get a bit quicker on subsequent runs....combine that with piles of gravel in the corners... nasty!! Imagine repeated runs at Riana... We would all have pics for our pool room walls like Ben and Matty!! :)

  • Replies 6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Duncan
Duncan

Good luck tomorrow Liam....hope you can hold onto the spot!

Bazil_1
Bazil_1

Wooo! Thanks Duncan. Still can't believe we did it. Managed 6th outright too which I'm amazed with. I'll post up some videos tomorrow. Time to party now...

Kel
Kel

Forget Red Bull - turns out it's the Cygnet stage that gives you wings

Posted Images

sav man Grand Master

sav man

Posted
Posted

I hated the RSZ this year. Lost 20 sec at Mersylea when we slowed down for some road work signs that were left out.......that wasn't even a RSZ. But even in the proper zones, I found it much harder to judge than the chicanes

Marlin Grand Master

Marlin

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Exactly. Rsz's always create confusion. Where if you hit a chicane, well, you hit a chicane.

Rsz's are like the computers in R35 gtr's..... too hard and simply impossible for me to pretend I'm interested long enough to begin to learn :P

PHaT MR30 Grand Master

PHaT MR30

Posted
Posted

How about this for Early Modern? It's the German version of the R35.... completes with automatics gears boxes.

http://my105.com/ListingDetails/tabid/65/p/1/cid/522/id/5526/Default.aspx

Wow pretty cheap...

Marlin Grand Master

Marlin

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah I know that........ after all this time it still kinda freaks me out every time I hear it. Regardless, if they don't have any inherent weaknesses (and I don't know if they do?) it would still be quick in the right hands.

poolheaters Enthusiast

poolheaters

Posted
Posted

Yeah I know that........ after all this time it still kinda freaks me out every time I hear it. Regardless, if they don't have any inherent weaknesses (and I don't know if they do?) it would still be quick in the right hands.

Still a pretty quick car though. When I was testing Mel's GTR at Qld Raceway last year just after we finished building it, that Porsche was out there. It was a good couple of seconds faster than me each lap. I was on 8 year old Yoky 32's, and only running about 260kw, but the thing would pull 5 car lengths on me down the straight!

I can see you in that Benny, and as a bonus after a few years you would have a closet full of unused left race boots!

Darkside Community Regular

Darkside

Posted
Posted

I noticed the Porsche of Win formerly owned by Matt Close now driving a TT RS with its understeer of fail has had 10k droppped off the price. That would be pretty special for EM. Although Porches, a bit like GTR's scare me. Buying them seems to be the cheap bit. Keeping em running is the pricey bit.

http://www.my105.com/ListingDetails/tabid/65/p/1/cid/522/id/1947/Default.aspx

PHaT MR30 Grand Master

PHaT MR30

Posted
Posted

I noticed the Porsche of Win formerly owned by Matt Close now driving a TT RS with its understeer of fail has had 10k droppped off the price. That would be pretty special for EM. Although Porches, a bit like GTR's scare me. Buying them seems to be the cheap bit. Keeping em running is the pricey bit.

http://www.my105.com/ListingDetails/tabid/65/p/1/cid/522/id/1947/Default.aspx

Been for sale for a LONG time, I reckon you could squeeze him. But yeh the Stuttgart Tax hurts! Seeing the costs when things goes wrong on a 944 is bad enough, a turbo would be 10x worse!

Darkside Community Regular

Darkside

Posted
Posted (edited)

Yeah Timmy,

hear all sorts of scary stories of 40k engine builds and the like. A major failure of any kind would kill my racing budget instantly. I reckon he would have to be getting pretty negotiable by now. As you say, its been out there for a loooong time. You definately have to price your race cars right to get them sold in a sensible time frame.

My shitbox rice coooker might happen yet... :) Considering you can get a decent rolling shell for about 3k, people are asking pretty substantial prices for fairly basic finished ones. I kind of struggle to look at buying a finished car unless its exactly what i want or possibly priced cheap enough that it still stacks up after I change all the stuff I dont like. Kind of leads me to want to start from scratch as i would want to put a substantial cage in it.

A few finished options below, but nothig that I reckon is a really nice finished package.... other than the genuine moffat one maybe.... But rather get a Lambo for that money lol.

http://www.my105.com/listingdetails.aspx?id=5538&latest=1

This one is the look I would go for....but 30k for something not quite finished.....

http://www.my105.com/ListingDetails/tabid/65/p/1/k/rx7/id/5513/Default.aspx

Tassie car

http://www.my105.com/ListingDetails/tabid/65/p/1/k/rx7/id/5335/Default.aspx

And then we just get sillier...

http://www.my105.com/ListingDetails/tabid/65/p/2/k/rx7/id/4970/Default.aspx

http://www.my105.com/ListingDetails/tabid/65/p/2/k/rx7/id/4486/Default.aspx

http://www.my105.com/ListingDetails/tabid/65/p/2/k/rx7/id/4899/Default.aspx

Edited by Darkside
PHaT MR30 Grand Master

PHaT MR30

Posted
Posted

Blaise a mate of mine down here runs one in IP, I think he bought it for $25k, but has spent a truck load on it to get to where it is

69034_102024193199417_100001755096779_13633_693775_n.jpg

and two race meetings in a row he has had to do this

320575_182790711789431_100001755096779_408594_622200_n.jpg319667_182790981789404_100001755096779_408597_2432292_n.jpg

I reckon your right though, build a car from scratch and then you know what you have

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      R34 gtt rb25det neo timing belt kit

      By Duncan · Posted

      This is the clearest explanation out of those: Page 77: Turn the crankshaft clockwise two full rotations with the tensioner pulley installation bolt in a loose condition. Insert a wrench into the tensioner pulley hexagonal hole to fix the tensioner pulley in place, then tighten the installation bolts. Tightening torque: 43–58 N·m (4.4–5.9 kg·m). The timing belt tension should be at the correct tension. Basically you turn the engine with the tensioner bolt loose, then use the allen key to hold it while you torque it up. And yes after that a good guide is being able to twist it 90o in one of the long free lengths of the belt
    • Duncan
      Installing the fuel sender O ring in R34 GTT

      By Duncan · Posted

      good choice....I have a set of those and use them all the time including on this job. Plus, no-one wants a damaged nipple
    • drifter17a
      R34 gtt rb25det neo timing belt kit

      By drifter17a · Posted

      Thanks all, went with nismo strengthened belt and all genuine nissan idler and tensioner Question on RB25DET Neo Timing Tensioner: I have a question about the RB25DET Neo timing tensioner. In one of the videos (minute 20 of https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=17y37BB9xnA and minute 27 of https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pb99s2E9xUg), the process suggests tightening the tensioner pulley installation bolt to the specified torque initially, and then loosening it slightly to allow the spring to set the correct tension. Is this the correct approach? The R33 workshop manual on page 74 states: Loosen the tension pulley installation nuts. Insert the wrench into the tensioner pulley hexagonal hole and turn it clockwise to tighten the installation nut temporarily. The way this is written is confusing. Does this mean: Undo the nut, then reduce the tension by turning clockwise? Snug the nut so it stays in position without applying tension to the belt while removing the timing belt? The manual wording makes it sound like the nut will tighten automatically when you turn the tensioner clockwise , which is unclear to me.   Timing Belt Tension Adjustment Process: After loosening the tensioner nut, you turn the engine two full rotations by hand, which should set the correct tension. Once the tension is set, you tighten the bolt to 43 N·m (4.4 kg·m). Before tightening, you need to insert the Allen key into the hexagonal hole to hold the pulley in place while tightening the bolt. In one of the videos, it’s mentioned that you should twist the belt side to side, or turn it slightly to check if the tension is correct. The belt should turn halfway, indicating the right tension. However, I know that twisting or turning the belt is not a good idea. What are your thoughts on this? Finally, how can I ensure the belt isn’t overtightened? I’ve seen many cases where people have overtightened the timing belt.   Manual Excerpts: Page 74: Loosen the tension pulley installation nuts. Insert the wrench into the tensioner pulley hexagonal hole and turn it clockwise to tighten the installation nut temporarily. Remove the timing belt from each pulley. Page 77: Turn the crankshaft clockwise two full rotations with the tensioner pulley installation bolt in a loose condition. Insert a wrench into the tensioner pulley hexagonal hole to fix the tensioner pulley in place, then tighten the installation bolts. Tightening torque: 43–58 N·m (4.4–5.9 kg·m). The timing belt tension should be at the correct tension.
    • GTSBoy
      Installing the fuel sender O ring in R34 GTT

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Takes a few minutes to malke one. Wood, or steel, or a wrap strap with some strategically placed solids to provide teh drive onto the ribs.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Installing the fuel sender O ring in R34 GTT

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I would strongly suggest using the correct tool. They are not expensive and make the job much easier and don't damage the lock ring. Google "fuel tank lock ring removal tool" to see what I'm talking about. 
×
×
  • Create New...