Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So on the topic of the 8 tyre rule, what are peoples thoughts on what to run?

A set of Mediums and a set of hards? 8 all the same? Yoki/Dunlop/Khumo/Hankook/Bridgestone/Sava/Nexen/Federal/Bob Jane????

Ooh and I like looking at the entry list now its been updated

149 Rookie Scott Strong Nathan Walker 1 LMS B 2001 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VI

723 Early Modern Ben Manion Damien Roach 7 MS B 1990 Nissan Skyline Gts-t

828 Early Modern Matthew Rickards Damien Grimwood 8 LMS B 2002 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VII RS

831 Early Modern Jeff Beable Nerida Beable 8 LMS C 2000 Nissan Skyline GT-R V-Spec N1

847 Early Modern Liam Howarth Larry Howarth 8 LMS C 1995 Nissan Skyline GT- R V-Spec

849 Early Modern Greg Garwood Honni Pitt 8 LMS A 2001 Mitsubishi Evo VII

906 Modern David Ayers Ray Dolton 9 SS D 2009 Nissan GT-R V-Spec

973 Modern Brendan Manion Travis Dean 9 LMS B 2010 Subaru Impreza WRX STi

981 Showroom Gavin James Tim Kulhanek 9 SR B 2011 Renault Megane

Just a few notable entries, interesting to see Greggy in EM

I was qizzing Bill Fulton about tyres on the weekend. We'll be on Dunlops, either on 8x M, or 4x M 4x S. Depending on the weather close to the event.

I heard rumers that Garwood was running Luwarna's stoked evo.

So on the topic of the 8 tyre rule, what are peoples thoughts on what to run?

A set of Mediums and a set of hards? 8 all the same? Yoki/Dunlop/Khumo/Hankook/Bridgestone/Sava/Nexen/Federal/Bob Jane????

If I was running the R34 I'd go with a set of Dunlop Hards and a set of Yoki M's - and keep the Yoki's for the wet only (or the end if somehow no rain came).

Had I been going in the R35 I'd have taken a similar approach with a set of OEM Dumlops for the dry and a set of R888's for the wet.

But I think a dedicated wet set could be a winning move.

So on the topic of the 8 tyre rule, what are peoples thoughts on what to run?

A set of Mediums and a set of hards? 8 all the same? Yoki/Dunlop/Khumo/Hankook/Bridgestone/Sava/Nexen/Federal/Bob Jane????

Ooh and I like looking at the entry list now its been updated

.......

Cant have been too updated...I'm still Claire Ryan :spam:

All kind of academic for me as I will be out of it for a year at least, and would all come down to tyre wear. Am guessing the wear will move from the front on the EMO to the rear on the chook cooker. If it was the emo again, I would run a set of M yokies for the dry and softs (S) yokies for the wet. The EMO would have gone full distance on 4 M's last year. Only threw the 2 fresh ones on the front halfway through dayu 4 cause we could. Want to be puking down ala end of day 4 start of day 5 last year) to throw S tyres on. They would turn to marshmallows pretty quick on a dry long stage.

Definitely putting airjacks in the RX7. I reckon road side V8 supercar spec tyre changes will become all the rage as the conditions change during each day. :)

Are you sure the weight penalty on that little car is worth it? A decent ex Nascar jack will have it in the air in no time, and be cheaper, and you're not lugging it around all day.

How many crew do you have to change tyres for you roadside?

I'm not sold on their benefits, and they're not a no-brainer to set up either, nor are they 100% reliable, so you still need to carry a jack, along with the Nitrogen bottle to jack them.

Nah, I could find other things to spend money on before air jacks :)

Plus, services cars with gas cylinders that you need to rent etc. I think far too few people put proper jacking points on their car. They spend thousands on cages but dont weld some intelligently placed plate to the feet of the cage that allows you to painlessly slip a jack and stands under there! Shits me no end when I am the one scared to jack their cars as I have to use the POS std points on low cars with skirts,lips etc

Absolutely Roy. Simple tubes within the sills allow triangulated stands to slip in quickly and efficuently, and are sturdy and safe even on rough ground. The gravel guys have used them for years, and if I were building a fresh tarmac car, it would certainly be on the list of must-do's.

Do WRC cars use airjacks?

FWIW, a dedicated central jacking point at the front was one of the very first things I added to my R32 when I bought it. Slide a jack just under the front in the vicinity of the middle and jack away. No need to get on your knees and check.

if I were building a fresh tarmac car, it would certainly be on the list of must-do's.

That would be half the fun of building something like a DR30. The challenge of getting the last 15% right. I am a long way from being a good service guy, but there are things that jump out at you when you are servicing or trying to repair cars in the heat of battle.

It would be cool to put a car up for sale and have a reputation for building cars that the general consensus would be "thats built by xyz...its a good buy". Its a curse from hanging around all the old boys who know what is right and wrong as they have had a hand in building 30 cars over 40 years They mention names of builders and those in the know understand why the asking price is what it is!

Take this car for example. It has had two owners since the guy I know built it...He has been at me to buy it as it would be a great instant Tarmac Rally car just add driver and navigator. Appears to have lost its Hollinger and AP brakes etc , and the main drawback is it has been 12-13 years since he sold it . Just add driver and navigator and go...for what can only be 1/10 of the cars original build cost it still has to be a reasonable thing for the asking price

http://www.my105.com/ListingDetails/tabid/65/p/1/k/pulsar/id/6383/Default.aspx#

^^ I had heard geaboxes can be a bit fragile, bit front heavy/understeery (no doubt could be dialed out) and I kow mates that had em as road cars found some parts spendy and hard to come by. Reality is probabaly just get an evo as they are a known quantity and affordable.

I had dreams of a 22B tarmac car. But financially it was just silly. The TME was a much better option.

Edited by Darkside

I had thought about air jacks, but I don't think they would work for a rally car very well. Much easier to yell at your crew to jack faster :P

I've been told the gtir's can be pretty hard to drive cause their wheelbase is so short, and they love smashing gearboxes.

I've driven and worked on a few GTiR's. They're pretty punchy given their weight, but they pale next to an Evo for handling and balance. I don't think you'd ever dial out the excessively front heavy feel (and fact) of them.

And to work on... a nightmare. And yeah, the gearboxes are fragile. So no, not the best Nissan ever made :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had no transmission at all so I managed to find a big box manual gearbox from an R34 GTT for an insanely good price in EU. I converted it to push type which cost more than the transmission almost, with parts from Amayama! These engines are very strong and can put out decent power with a properly sized turbo. You can save on money from parts like pistons and rods, and invest those in the transmission and other parts. I suggest you join the RB20 Enthusiasts facebook group, plenty of info and almost daily posts there about 20DE/DET/Neo+T builds. (I hope I'm not breaking any forum rules by mentioning third party platforms, just trying to help the buddy out)
    • Yeah, having tried all of those methods including BBQ+recipro/hacksaw, I ended up buying a bush press kit under $150 that works well, like this: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/355967727167?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0&ssspo=sfmmuhxgqhm&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=dJvnaZ11TB-&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY It basically has a range of pushers and cups with threaded rods between to press out a range of large bushes. The problem with any sawing solution is minimising damage to the subframe side, although it probably needs a quick sand afterwards no matter what solution you try due to damage
    • Hi. Thanks for the answer. I do not have instagram 😄 I too considering turbo the RB20DE NEO 🙂 But i think i upgrade the gearbox first or at least buy new.  
    • Just pulled the passenger apart so got a good idea, also the side bracket that pivots the top half is completely cooked.. how I don’t know.. haha and paid $400 also included a photo of the passenger seat! She is mint
    • I managed to get the foam will the original upholstery off in one piece, so will be an easy to re fit thankfully.
×
×
  • Create New...