Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Its a bit sereal? To have been on top of the podium. The feeling was a bit bitter sweet for me unfortunatly as there was a bit of controversy in the final 24 hours. But at the end of the day we fought by the rules and stuck by the rules and if targa as a whole decided not to go by the rules than where does that leave the whole sport.

Targa is a very long a torturous event but on average The little old 32 that Ben and damo built in a shed was consistently faster than its rivals per km and whist the field wasn't huge this year we were sitting in the top 10 outright for most of the event. This was further emphasized by setting 3rd outright times for the last 4 stages of the event. Ben pushed to the end which you will see from the woods dale stage where we took a win it or bin it approach and for the first time in 38 stages he scared me twice.

From the day 2 fuel pump failure I thought is it even possible to make up 1 minute, then 2 stages later ( cethana ) to lose another 1.5 minutes and end up only 9 sec off the lead going into day 5 was just a huge effort from Ben.

As most would know the lead up to this event for us has been less than ideal and after pre event testing the car was only 1/4 sec per km than last year but once into the swing of things we turned that into 1sec per km on last year. Maybe even more.

Looking at the car itself this morning it has never looked better. I would happily jump in it and do another 5 days rallying tomorrow. No broken or falling parts and everything still works. Just a few 1000 more stone chips thanks to a massive amount of cold seal road works done since last year. And the motor, Wow what a motor Ben has built 3 years of r&d has lead to a strong torquey high reving beast with all parts and most of the work being hand crafter by Ben or I. And they are cheap haha.

Myself as a navigator I have been lucky as this year makes 3 from 3 and thus a gold targa plate. And a podium to top it off. That in itself is harder than most would appreciate and some people go years trying to achieve what we have in only 3 years.

Thanks for reading and thanks to everyone's support on here and in person.

Thanks for all the support.

It was about this point where I thought all chances had slipped away.

539833_228611587271000_908322554_n.jpg

Damo did an unbelieveable job to get in and out of the car twice on the stage within 1:35, and then pick up the notes only 2 km down the road.

We opened up the oil restricers to the head, so it would stop being starved of oil. This made a huge difference, as I had no worries about reving it, and keeping it in the power band all day.

At the end of the event CAMS stroke tested my car and Thatchers car. I'm glad they did, as it's proof the engine is legit.

Looks like we finished 5th overall.

Edited by sav man

Congratulations Ben and Damo certainly a well earned victory. I can still see you passing us on Arrowsmith last year (prior to your issues) and am in now way surprised you're up there this year. That car is very well sorted :rolleyes:
We were stroke tested at Targa Tas last year and then another 'eligibility check' at High Country last year so it's becoming standard practice thankfully. To do it Dan, they remove a spark plug, put the car in fourth gear, and roll the car till the piston measures bottom dead center. Then its rolled until the piston reads top dead center. The difference is the stroke :)
In the case of the Evo, 88mm.

In the checks last year at the end of Day 1, one Evo was found to be a stroker with the story going that he was unaware as had just bought the car. Octagon let him compete in the NC class.

So my RB24 Neo RB20 is no longer the gun engine for Tarmac events

Just have a switch that shuts off the wastegate and on the final stretch of road when you can see the finish line opull unlimited boost and give ita a FnF downshift to get the revs up to 12k and push hard for the finish line. Wont be enough of the engine left to check :)

How does that stop you having larger bores or something like no quench pads for extra displacement?

Is what they use to measure stroke also measuring cylinder diameter?

Edited by ActionDan

LOL, Tomei and HKS did an RB24. The HKS even had its own crank back before the day of RB26s.

Can I still commission a build of a limited number of re-engineered cars and go racing? Time for Ben to step up and make a Spec-TR R32 GTSt for other competitors :)

How does that stop you having larger bores or something like no quench pads for extra displacement?

Is what they use to measure stroke also measuring cylinder diameter?

Quench pads don't affect swept volume ie bore x stroke. Removing material in that area will decrease static CR.

Bores generally won't be able to exceed .060" over due to cylinder wall thickness issues. Group A Sierra RS500 had a habit of splitting bores back in the day.

How does that stop you having larger bores or something like no quench pads for extra displacement?

Is what they use to measure stroke also measuring cylinder diameter?

Generally you are allowed 1mm overbore and as Dale FZ1 mentioned, any more that that and you start running into wall thickness issues.

they way around it is to call your car a super alphabet lotto numbers that comes with a strocker

Octagon is a business so if you have money to spend and an unlimited imagination you can run almost anything in any class/category (last time I checked EM was up to year 2002... :whistling: )

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
×
×
  • Create New...