Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'd be devastated if that was my car (way too much blood, sweat and tears in in...some of them mine), but the truth is it is cheap and easy to reshell these cars. Other than the shell pretty much everything Mark is running this year rolled down a hill 7 times.

Changeover cost for a new shell is less than $10k which is a drop in the ocean compared to some of these builds. I know of a full, uncomplied 33 GTR with running motor going for 12k...once you sell the motor it doesn't cost much.

Yeah it was a hard decision for us, but after alot of navel gazing we decided to reshell into an R32 because they are a bit lighter, smaller etc. The quote to fix our orange one was about $5.5k in labour plus parts and paint, so we figured we would be out of it for about $12k in total. Considering the cage ($10k cromoly job) and all running gear was fine, and its got full compliance etc, it was a tough decision..

By the time we found a good R32 shell and had it caged it owes us about the same, so still not sure if we did the right thing? We were despeartely trying to have it ready for Targa this year for my wife to run (Melinda Both, ran a pink WRX last year, 7th in early modern) , but didn't quite make it and pulled the pin a few weeks ago. She was pretty devastated and hoping to do even better this year, but after seeing the weather maybe not such a bad choice?

Anyway, the build continues and will be at Targa High Country for sure..

A couple of pics of the R32, hope I'm not getting too off topic here?

Paul

post-42431-1272713556_thumb.jpg

post-42431-1272713582_thumb.jpg

post-42431-1272713607_thumb.jpg

post-42431-1272713625_thumb.jpg

post-42431-1272713642_thumb.jpg

snowies car will fix, tis a mear flesh wound. He's lucky, the rail didn't get touched, and sill panels are cheap.

Ayres car probably won't fix from what i've been told.

sitting at the end of the straugn stage, roads are wet

Beable out with a $0.10 fuse! No ABS, 4WD or Diff from the time when the car started in the morning. Couldn't hunt it down until a service, however as he couldn't get in front of the sweep car they will have received 20 minute penalties on two stages.

they will miss out on the 12 years in a row trophy which they were aiming for.

Stoopid fuses!!!!

Congrats to Snowball!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah - My key still does the chime thing. I followed the procedure but it didn't activate on the (identical) third set of keyfob that I had. I vaguely remember the alarm saying you can only pair two keys with it. Now that I've dug it up, it appears that you very much can pair keyfobs to the alarm system. (which are the fobs I use to unlock the car). I have successfully diverted the thread and can probably not use the OEM keyfob ever again unless I use the aftermarket alarm and attempt to pair the OEM keyfob to it. Which might just work, or not :D. I definitely used the nissan method and not the aftermarket alarm method.
    • What makes it worse is that Nissan made keys in the same style, for example R34 and Stagea, but they work at different frequencies or something like that. So they look the same but the remotes are not interchangeable. I learned that from some guy selling aftermarket blank keys.
    • Does your door chime work when you have the key in the lock and open the door? I've had that disabled because it's f**king annoying and it is one thing that messes with the pairing. Because now the car doesn't detect key in ignition anymore and the slide-key-in-and-out sequence does not trigger the pairing mode anymore. The service manual has a section on the various bits involved in doing the syncing. I presume it'll be similar between Stagea and R34.
    • Agree, but meh, I think is is based more on LOLS than actually apples to apples, like, who would have thunk a turbo 4 cylinder would not beat a NA 4 cylinder  I think with just basic N/A mods, like a exhaust and tune, it would be equal to the Mini in its current form, maybe I know my current 2.5 would "chop the mini" as the midrange now has a night and day difference in power delivery compared to the tuned 2.0, by around 20kwatw and 30nm from around 2k rpm "ish"....... I'm kinda hoping that they do a N/A build, either with the MZR 2.0 or with whatever they decide to use If I recall correctly they did talk about K swapping one a while ago
    • Can't see that being a thing.
×
×
  • Create New...