Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok so it was noticable tonight to post up on here, at around 4000rpm its almost like the car takes the accelerator off, cause i get a drop in revs and a back fire noise. i originally thought it was the back wheels spinning cause it was a simmilar feeling but the revs where dropping, not picking up, almost as if it was traction control?

it only does it every now and then, but it shouldnt be doing it......

the car is stock, apart from 4inch hks dragger cat back exhaust, pod filter, super spark coil pack, nismo S-tune sparkplugs and supposedly a bigger fuel pump?

is it just a case of maybe running too rich? overflowing the car with fuel and choking it??? injectors? spark plugs? im new to the whole skyling thing so any advice much appreciated

if youy need any more info please let me know

cheers

rhys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/228264-problem-on-boost/
Share on other sites

Could it be a boost cut?

I am guessing you have a boost controler or bleed valve (but not listed in your mods). If you have increased the boost and havent got an aftermarket ECU or similar the could cause the problem. The cooler and more dence air in winter will make this more obvious than in summer.

the forced induction section answers alot of questions i have learnt!

maybe have a search?

ive got more replies and looks here than there, im not too sure on what to search tho???

Have you checked cooler pipes and vacum hoses?? Just make sure they are all connected to something and dont have holes or splits!!

i'll have a dig around and see if any are loose

Could it be a boost cut?

I am guessing you have a boost controler or bleed valve (but not listed in your mods). If you have increased the boost and havent got an aftermarket ECU or similar the could cause the problem. The cooler and more dence air in winter will make this more obvious than in summer.

no such mods have been done, everything else is factory, running factory boost. i think you may be onto sumthing with the colder air???? it has only done it at night, and this afternoon when it is freezing cold, whats the go with this?

my car did the same sort of thing, ended up being a bad fuel pump, then not long after that the motor died, so get it checked out before something bad happens.

ahh ok, in that case would you recomend getting it booked into a mechanic/dyno asap??

cheers for the help guys

ok will do, can you guys recomend anywhere other than boostworx? (long story, not going there)

i have a dent in the bottom of my intercooler, could this be effecting it at all?

if the dent has pierced the core of the intercooler, then most definately. and it'd be letting unfiltered air into your engine. not good. thats a worst case scenario but if i were you i wouldnt screw around, go to yr fave mechanic or mark at exhaust tech to check it out

-D

if the dent has pierced the core of the intercooler, then most definately. and it'd be letting unfiltered air into your engine. not good. thats a worst case scenario but if i were you i wouldnt screw around, go to yr fave mechanic or mark at exhaust tech to check it out

-D

exhaust tech it is, will call them first thing in the morning. so a dent in the front mount if it has pierced the core would explain my current problem?

exhaust tech it is, will call them first thing in the morning. so a dent in the front mount if it has pierced the core would explain my current problem?

its a >very< long shot that it is to do with your current proble (lack of boost at certain RPM). I would recommend it get checked for the simple fact that any sort of air intake, be it turbo or otherwise, needs a filter to stop particulate matter screwing up the internal mechanics of the engine. Imagine getting a single grain of sand underneath your eye for a day. I'm sure it'd cause some wear/irritation issues before too long. Same goes with engines.

Your current problem for lack of boose could be a number of things, but I'd be suspecing an individually anomalous map at that particular rev range. For some single problem at a specific rev range, there would have to be a particular corresponding map that calculates the mix.

Having said that, you say its around 4000rpm? This is just over the 3500rpm boost kick in of most std ecu maps....could perhaps be worth checking the vacuum/control pipes to EBC or ECU stock actuators.. the aftermarket coilpacks are a variable but if you're not having serious problems, they'd be the last thing i'd look at. ** bear in mind im not a mechanic **

I get a drop in power a couple of minute after driving, but thats normal...after the engine warms up it switches to the ecu's map instead of relying on some other sensor/valve (i cant remember what its called cause im tired as hell, can some smart bugger please tell me what its called...:banana: AAC valve perhaps? Dunno)

Anyhow, it sounds like a pain in the arse to diagnose for a layman. I'd gladly palm it off to an expert and pay them for it. Lifes to short to chase leaky hose.

-D

i wish it was more regular so i could get a grip of when and how it comes in, so i could better explain it....i just feel like an idiot walking into a workshop and trying to explain the problem..... cause there is such a vast aray of possible issues....

cause its not like i can take a mechanic for a test drive cause the problem only arises at night when its freezing cold :banana:

how would they correlate to a drop in temperature? im leaning on boost (piping) or fuel :s

well i had the same problem, loss of power with very loud bangs from exhaust, but it happen'd all the time, not just with cold air temps like yours, and it was diagnosed on a dyno by my mechanic with air/fuel ratio's.

just take it to a good mechanic with a dyno, its not worth risking.

that actually sounds like a bosst cut to me.....i had that similar problem a while back when my vaccum hose came off.....so checking all your vaccum lines could sort that out....

if not then also take your cooler core and get it pressure tested as a dent could have punched the core and now its either leaking air or leting in unfiltered air....

if you say you have a aftermarket fuel pump then fuel shouldnt be an issue but get that checked as well.....most of the time a good dyno tuner will be able to pin point where the problem is arising from and should be a easy fix at times....

good luck with it all mate and let us know how you go

thanks for the reply, im just hoping a dyno tuner will know whats wrong from my description cause to date its only done it at night and there not open then :laugh:

anyways thursday after work i'll putter around the corner to Mildren and see what they have to say

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you really don't want to touch anything you can try to trigger off the timing loop just to see if it's sparking semi-regularly. Don't trust it for actual timing measurements.
    • Also replace the fuel filter aswell today
    • Hey everyone, I have a r34 GTT s1, im having a problem with my skyline, ive let the car sit in the garage for the last couple of months and havent run it and ive gone to fire her up today and it cranks but doesnt fire, i have been having problems with it previously where it wouldnt start again after driving it around for a bit. It use to start fine on cold start ups but if you drove to the petrol station and fueled it up and went to go start it again, it would just crank and not fire untill you let it rest for a few hours, the car doesn't over heat it sits perfectly in the middle while driving when warmed up. Im thinking this problem has caught up maybe and now it just wont start at all. The car runs on e85, ive checked the e85 seems to be fine. I can hear the fuel priming before you go to start it and checked all my fuses and relays. List of things I replaced today - New battery - New sparkplugs - New Coolant temp sensor I was thinking about testing the CAS but from what ive seen online, if the CAS is cooked, the car will actually start up but then die instantly? as mine just doesn't fire at all. Does anyone have any idea or have encountered the same problems? thanks
    • Modern reg stuff now, they'd have a wide input range which would push through a buck converter, it would need to be able to maintain voltage for cranking conditions (sub 9V at times). Likely runs something like an internal 6V rail, and then further voltage regulators depending on which circuit/area it is feeding. Modern voltage regs, like what I'm starting a new power supply design with at work, will let me run a 5V rail output, and as long as my input is equal to or greater than 5V, I have a 5V output. Except I'm not pushing a 5V rail in our system as I don't need one, we're setting up for a 3.8V rail. Our new design will allow me 6 to 60VDC input, and everything else doesn't care, even when I start pushing a few Amp outputs.   Realistically, the voltage drop off could be caused by a few things though, one could be literally the alternator is dieing, and hence charge power is dropping, which also means on a straight hard pull you're starting to send the battery flat... (Not that likely from a single couple of gear pull if the battery was fully charged). However, having earth issues, like stray earths not connected, or someone having put a ground loop in, will see the ECU appear to end up with lower voltage "input", mainly because the "ground" is no longer equivalent to battery negative. If they're comparing the input voltage using sensory ground for example, and sensor ground is what is in that ground loop, than the sensor output voltage will actually start to be reduced, when compared to battery ground... Yeah, ground wiring design can start to be a bitch... Also voltage going weird from inductive loads not being managed properly is another real bitch... Hence, why I asked above about how everything was wired in. If OP knows, and can post all of the actual connections from the ECU pin out, as well as what wires are joined where in the loom, which grounds from the ECU have ground points and where they are etc. Would help to see if there is a ground issue. The part I'd start with though, is putting a mechanical oil pressure gauge on to confirm the theory. Otherwise the next track day when the threshold is lowered could result in another of @Duncan favourite types of jokes... Knock knocks... Pretty sure this is what @GTSBoy is also self high fiving...  Is all great that we have a decent theory... But they need to prove it before relying on it...  
    • When I worked at BlueScope Steel, we had an Ethernet network, with every switch setup with a duplicate switch. Even when looking at all the primary switches, they had duplicate links, there was then also duplicated links between the primary in section A, to the duplicate in section B. So for each location that had networking, there was 8 network links. This was all back around 2007. That setup caused sooooo many issues, as many of those links were fibre. The network guys ran everything with Spanning Tree Protocol. And then we had great joy... The FOC Transceivers were slowly dieing, but in an intermittent way. And a lot of the time as they started to die, they'd drop offline for about 30 seconds... Spanning Tree Protocol was requiring 45 seconds to "rewire" the network... And by the time it was mostly finished, it had to start again as the transceiver was back online... Queue entire production network being constantly spammed with the spanning tree protocol messages...   My god I do NOT miss working in huge environments like that!
×
×
  • Create New...